F
F
Fred_M
When you say "caustic soda" do you mean sodium hydroxide? Sometime we loose stuff in translation. No way this tin could be sanded, it's too delicate and the waves are small, this is HO scale tin. Maybe bead blasted though. Here's another picture with a scratch building I've been doing. FRED
Attachments
Yes it is Sodium Hydroxide, i had to look it up lol. It's only known as Caustic Soda here in Aus.
Being that thin, i'd imagine the caustic would eat holes, as in your fence, no stain is left on the metal, just wash the solution off with water
Being that thin, i'd imagine the caustic would eat holes, as in your fence, no stain is left on the metal, just wash the solution off with water
F
Fred_M
F
Fred_M
Fred I like how you have pulled the scene together, :thumb: my only question would be ,don't you think a fence that is this weather beaten in some spots would be a little less shiny all over? Or did I miss where you said you were doing more later? This is just an observation and not intented to ruffle any feathers 
Pat
Pat
F
Fred_M
In real life it's not shiney. It's been painted with flat silver acrylic craft paint and the rust is black, tan, burnt sienna and gray. There's also not a reflection off the roof and the truck isn't the least bit shiney. My camera makes things brighter. FRED
Fred, here's a photo of a roof I finished last night. I used Builders in Scale's corrugated roofing/siding and cut it into the size strips I wanted. Then I dunked the pieces (one at a time) back and forth between Archer Etchant and plain water until I got the look I wanted. I didn't want the panels completly rusted through, so timing and rinsing were the keys to controlling the "burning" of each panel.
I had to throw a couple of old tires up there to hold down some of the panels. They rattle when the wind blows and about drive a man nuts.
(Also, Vic is right about what the etchant will do to stainless tools. I have a pair of surgeon's foreceps that I've used for this process for over 20 years. The tips are pretty cruddy looking now from being dunked so many times into etchant solution to fish out roofing/siding panels.)
I had to throw a couple of old tires up there to hold down some of the panels. They rattle when the wind blows and about drive a man nuts.
(Also, Vic is right about what the etchant will do to stainless tools. I have a pair of surgeon's foreceps that I've used for this process for over 20 years. The tips are pretty cruddy looking now from being dunked so many times into etchant solution to fish out roofing/siding panels.)
Attachments
Beautiful roof, Mike, and I hope you have stopped using the cruddy forcepts when you do your side line (minor surgery on Saturdays)
Thanks, Jon.
As for the foreceps, no, I still use them on Saturdays. One look at them and most "patients" are discouraged enough to cancel their surgery. It gets me out on the water that much quicker.
As for the foreceps, no, I still use them on Saturdays. One look at them and most "patients" are discouraged enough to cancel their surgery. It gets me out on the water that much quicker.
F
Fred_M
Mike, is that roofing steel? And thanks much for that supplier. I'll bookmarked it and will order some. The local cheap tool store sells them foreceps for a couple bucks, so I don't care if they turn black. 
You building looks fantastic as always. Thanks for helping us newbies. FRED
You building looks fantastic as always. Thanks for helping us newbies. FREDdash10 said:Mike, is that roofing steel? And thanks much for that supplier. I'll bookmarked it and will order some. The local cheap tool store sells them foreceps for a couple bucks, so I don't care if they turn black.
Fred, the roofing is corrugated aluminum. It's just a different gauge and corrugation pattern than the typical Campbell's stuff. It was made by Builders in Scale, which was sold to CC Crow about a year ago. He may have started producing the siding/roofing materials again, but I don't know for sure. I bought several packages of the BIS materials a few years back and used some of it for this project.
Weathering aluminium
Ferric chloride is a nasty,savage substance. I've used it and it does produce a weathered look, particularly if you allow it to chew up the edges of the metal.
Its seriously corrosive and you need plastic tongs, masks and pots.
I read an article in Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette which recommended something called Rottenstone, which I believe is an abrasive powder.
On rust generally, I've seen so many rusty roofs and tanks around the bush that colour is a moot question. I've bought little bottles of builder's powdered chalk and added it to tube acrylic artists paints of the raw umber, burnt sienna, oxide red, oxide yellow, range and obtained nice, grainy rust qualities.
I'm currently wondering whether anybody produces corrugated iron looking material in styrene as I'm frustrated with the problems related to cardboard and aluminium. I can paint styrene, sand it and cut it and it behaves.
Ferric chloride is a nasty,savage substance. I've used it and it does produce a weathered look, particularly if you allow it to chew up the edges of the metal.
Its seriously corrosive and you need plastic tongs, masks and pots.
I read an article in Narrow Gauge and Short Line Gazette which recommended something called Rottenstone, which I believe is an abrasive powder.
On rust generally, I've seen so many rusty roofs and tanks around the bush that colour is a moot question. I've bought little bottles of builder's powdered chalk and added it to tube acrylic artists paints of the raw umber, burnt sienna, oxide red, oxide yellow, range and obtained nice, grainy rust qualities.
I'm currently wondering whether anybody produces corrugated iron looking material in styrene as I'm frustrated with the problems related to cardboard and aluminium. I can paint styrene, sand it and cut it and it behaves.