Walthers RTR 66' HD 4 Truck Flat

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fred_M
  • Start date Start date
F

Fred_M

Well, my LHS finally got it in for me. I paid near list price of 29.98 for what is sold as a RTR car. I guess that that is technically correct, but the brake wheels and a bunch of tiny metal grab irons need installed in holes I (YES I) need to drill with a #80 bit. I quit as I know I don't have enough time and I'm way too tired and hacked to try and do such fine work tonite. So much for promised RTR, it gonna be more work that a blue box to fix. It has plastic wheels that measure 33" on HD trucks. So I also need to install 8 metal wheelsets. It has plastic knuckel couplers that have plastic springs, I gonna have to install kadees. The main deck is metal and the end decks are plastic. All the brake hardware is cast in place with the deck. The frame is cast in place with the deck. The paint (UP yellow) looks a tad dark to me. The printing is sharp and crisp. I'm not very happy with this RTR car. IMHO it's not RTR, but a semikit like blue boxs were. For $30 I expected more, I expected it to be done for one. It was a special order so I'm stuck with it. This car isn't RTR. If you need one like me then this is it because this is it. Just be aware you are going to have to assemble this RTR car. :( :( :( :( :( Fred
 

Attachments

  • rtr66.jpg
    rtr66.jpg
    38.5 KB · Views: 193
Fred

Sorry about your car but I'm glad you're givin' us a first hand account of this particular RTR (?) Now I'll be takin' a closer look at Walthers in the future. For what it's worth I might as well stick to Blue Box kit.

Have you thought about puttin' it on e-bay?
 
Well sir, as I said
dash10 said:
If you need one like me then this is it because this is it.
Click to expand...
. I know of no other car on the market like this and I need it for a diorama I'm doing. It just makes me upset that we are expected to assemble a RTR car. And it's rather difficult boring work at that (my opinion). Here's what I want to do with it. Fred
 

Attachments

  • up on flat.jpg
    up on flat.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 185
I don't see this is a cause for alarm, some details are better left off till you get it home. Atleast the finer details won't get broken off in shipping or by someone handling it at the shop but I would think the holes would be there though. Yea, I know how many #80's till you get all the holes drilled, two weeks ago I broke 2 off in less than a minute.:cry: Don't worry Fred it will be OK. :)
 
Brian, if I only had to push them in I wouldn't of said a thing about it. But having to drill holes in something sold as RTR is wrong. The grabs are metal so there is no reason for them to be left off for shipping, or the holes to be left closed for shipping. They are also unpainted so I will need to try and match a small batch of paint to match. Technically this is RTR as it don't need grabs to run so I don't have a legal leg to stand on. Fred
 
If I may..I have 6 of the Walther's C&O cabooses..RTR?? HA!! Joking right? You must add all the grabs AFTER you DRILL holes for them..Then rework the steps so the trucks can swing freely.. :( Now,Once you add the details,it is a very nice looking caboose IMHO.. :thumb:
 
This only reminds us that this isn't a perfect world, right!

Walthers would be wise to add some kind of note on the package that some detail parts must be added by the customer. That way they'd be making an informed purchase.
 
Here's what I want to do with it. Fred
Click to expand...
Wow, Fred, that is one trashed loco. Is there a story that goes with it or did you just run across the picture? I have a N-Scale static loco that was a promotional gift with Readers Digest a few years ago. The detail sucks but it would be OK for a project like this, ('specially after I get through trashin' & bashin' it). I copied the picture, (for future reference) hope you don't mind. Alan Curtis Models came out with a 4 truck heavy duty flatcar in N Scale. Man the wheels are starting to turn!!!

2slim
 
Hi, I found it on net somewhere myself. I'm using a Lifelike loco and a Walthers primemover load to build the loco. I am currently working on cutting out the missing doors. I also still need to assemble the RTR flatcar. Fred
 
Actually, I think the idea is to offer ready to run cars without grab iron detail, kind of like the Athearn diesels with "dimples" for installing grabs, but no grabs. If you want to install the grabs, they are included in the Walthers car. I bought a Walthers REA express car. It includes grabs that need to be installed, but I'm looking forward to doing it when I have time to finish it.
 
Fred if it's any consolation, the flatcar I'm using in N-Scale cost me about $10 less than what you paid, (it's metal) and it's a kit. Needs assembly, paint, decals, trucks and couplers to make it RTR. But, Alan Curtis Models dosen't call it 'ready to run' either. Walthers needs to rethink the 'ready to run' slogan to something like 'ready to finish' or "minor assembly required'

2slim
 
Fred,
Just wondering how your, 'not-so-RTR' project is coming along! I have cut open a battery box and a couple of doors on mine. Instead of going to the trouble of finding the prime mover and installing it in the frame, I think I'm going to search for a photo that I can resize and print and glue behind the doors! I wish I had a program like photoshop so I could use the photo of the UP engine! Maybe I'll have to play around with it! Nice thing about N Scale, you can pull off a fudge like that better than a larger scale.

2slim
 
Walthers RTR cars are pretty much all like you describe, Fred. They simply aren't quite up to the same standards as a P2K or Genesis RTR car in terms of being finished. But, they are a good start and are technically ready to run.

I have a number of Thrall-Door boxcars and pellet hoppers and all of them need grabs installed. It's pretty common to have to drill out the holes on these cars, too. Just buy the best #80 bits you can, because it doesn't take much to break them. I've got one bit that I've been using for years and haven't broken it yet (knock on wood). The key is to keep it perpendicular to the drilled surface and to never apply downward pressure on the bit. Always let the bit do the cutting, not pressure, and the bit will last.

Drilling countless holes in a model is tedious work, but is best done with some relaxing music on or a familiar movie on the TV (that way you're not tempted to take your eyes off your work). The other tasks you describe are also best done while being entertained with something other than the model you're working on.

Your project looks very interesting. Keep up the good work.
 
Well, I'm still waiting on the LHS to get me a prime mover. I have been building some coaling towers in the meantime. This project is on hold right now.
Fred
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom