USS Enterprise NCC-1701-d by Ninjatoes

[CallousedRock]

I am currently building the Enterprise D by Ninjatoes.

This is my first "complex" build but i have already noticed that some of my technique needs improving. I've just cut an assemble the main body of the ship.

I'm constructing the ship using 160 gsm (110lbs) cardstock and have been folding tabs and corners using tweezers. The tweezers I'm using have rounded edges so the folds aren't very crisp. Also I'm not scoring the folds at all, I'm afraid that I'll cut all the way through.

Should I be scoring or using a tweezers with a sharper edge or both?

Thank you for any recommendations.

 

[Rhaven Blaack]

You are off to a good start with this project. For scoring, I would suggest a VERY dull knife or a dried out ballpoint pen to score the lines. As for tweezers; yes, using a flat head set of tweezers will help tremendously with folding parts along "fold-lines". I have a set like this, that I use:
Hello and welcome you to Zealot!

 

[Revell-Fan]

Wow! This looks very good so far!

I only use flaps on sharp edges. If you have a more smooth surface cut the tabs off and use paper strips made from the remains of the printed sheets and glue them to the back side. The result will look fantastic.

 

[Chuffy70]

For my creasing, I use the back edge of an old darning needle, smoothly pointed, but not sharp.

Your 'D' looks good so far.

Find all sorts of odd things that you have lying around and practise on a scrap piece to find out what works for you.

 

[mijob]

Weldone it looks great. Welcome at zealot.

 

[ennder]

I use a metal scribe that has been dulled to score lines with. I have tried to use the back of my x-acto knife as was suggested to me when I first started building paper models, but it didn't work. I kept cutting through the paper. Also, I use 1/8" hardieboard as a cutting mat. You can get it in 24x24 24x48 48x48 or 48x96 for cheep. Where I live (Arkansas) you can get the 24x48 for about $4.00 usd. A full sheet (48x96) goes for around $9.00 usd. much cheeper then the normal cutting matt.

 

[zathros]

Your model looks very balance, plumb and straight. You're off to a great start.

 

[CallousedRock]

I use a metal scribe that has been dulled to score lines with. I have tried to use the back of my x-acto knife as was suggested to me when I first started building paper models, but it didn't work. I kept cutting through the paper. Also, I use 1/8" hardieboard as a cutting mat. You can get it in 24x24 24x48 48x48 or 48x96 for cheep. Where I live (Arkansas) you can get the 24x48 for about $4.00 usd. A full sheet (48x96) goes for around $9.00 usd. much cheeper then the normal cutting matt.

Thanks for the advice ennder. I was being silly. I have a metal scribe in my blades kit that I was using for getting glue in tight points & to fold some small tabs. But I didnt think to use it for scoring. It works like a charm.

 

[CallousedRock]

Update 1:

I've completed the saucer section but I'm not happy with it.

My glue up was terrible: (see attached pics). this was also unscored tabs just tweezer-folded tabs.

• There is warping (lol) of the bow of the saucer this most likely from the underside panels.
• I didn't properly align (hide) the glue tabs on the topside panels.

After some thought (not very long thought) the bad job was because I was rushing. I put glue on each tabs then did placement and of course each tabs doesn't stay in place i did this for each piece adn the carry on error is the warping (lol) of the Saucer section.

So lesson learnt I need to be patient, as they say "more haste, less speed"

 

[mijob]

So you are going for the next attempt?

 

[ennder]

that's the same type I use.

 

[CallousedRock]

So you are going for the next attempt?

Yes I will, I haven't started it yet. But I will the Easter weekend. I was thinking I'll do the tail section and the nacelles first and then come back to the saucer section.

I realized the Saucer section is actually pretty difficult. Making sure all the tabs are at the right angle to give the correct curve profile and placed in the correct position with all the tabs glued.

That's where I was making mistakes, I was considering too many things at once and succeeded in very few. In the words of Nobutada - "Too many mind" (The Last Samurai).

but now that I'm scoring and have a better plan to tackle it. It should come out better..hopefully.

 

[Revell-Fan]

Try cutting off the flaps completely and joining the parts using paper strips on the back side.