USS Defiant (DS9) 1:400 scale (finally...)
- Thread starter Cybergrinder
- Start date
THE DC
Highly Esteemed Member
Thanks DC, I got the port warp nacelle completed yesterday;
Some tweaking required on the design for the warp nacelles, too many fiddly pieces & tabs aren't exactly right.
And then started on the bridge section which is going ok so far.
Some tweaking required on the design for the warp nacelles, too many fiddly pieces & tabs aren't exactly right.
And then started on the bridge section which is going ok so far.
So, I had quite a productive weekend, Bridge section finished 
I chose not to join the two pieces until I get the upper hull done. There is a bit of overlap here but I'll address that when I get to the construction.
I then went on to do the rear section;
And then attach to the hull. Except for having to add a few flaps it's all going pretty straight forward.
I then felt really brave and decieded to attached the warp nacelles;
A bit of crumpling happened here, I didn't allow enough space on the hull for the nacelle, but it doesn't look too bad.
So, with even more time on my hands (very, very unusual occurance ) I started on the nose; top side;
And the under side;
To be continued....
I chose not to join the two pieces until I get the upper hull done. There is a bit of overlap here but I'll address that when I get to the construction.
I then went on to do the rear section;
And then attach to the hull. Except for having to add a few flaps it's all going pretty straight forward.
I then felt really brave and decieded to attached the warp nacelles;
A bit of crumpling happened here, I didn't allow enough space on the hull for the nacelle, but it doesn't look too bad.
So, with even more time on my hands (very, very unusual occurance ) I started on the nose; top side;
And the under side;
To be continued....
And sucker for punishment; I attached the nose to the hull
You can see the DIY supports I put together for this build
And from underneath you would think it's complete!
So, all that remains is to complete the upper hull and those fiddly triangle bits (and of course to put it all together )
You can see the DIY supports I put together for this build
And from underneath you would think it's complete!
So, all that remains is to complete the upper hull and those fiddly triangle bits
(and of course to put it all together )
Well, upper hull done, sans greebles
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THE DC
Highly Esteemed Member
I like the way you've designed this; modularly. It adds to some different building potential.
Thanks DC, it's also how the model unfolded
Here we go, upper hull with greebles
And then, due to the overlap I decided to "perform a bit of "surgery" to the hull & bridge section. The overlap makes some nice glue tabs!
And, the moment of truth....
The triangular bits fit into the gaps on the hull. (sorry didn't take that photo
)
Ok. Issues. Firstly is the gap at the rear of the bridge section, that was me misjudging the overlap :banghead:
The rather big gap at the nose, I think this needs to be recessed more, but then the inner "wall" would need to be modified?
How deep to cut for the warp nacelles is a bit tricky. If you look on the template/upper hull build You can see where the texture is "garbled" which provides a guideline, but it's not enough. (Hence the gap on the upper hull & crumpling on the lower hull)
"Escape pods" are a bit proud, I think to halve the ring that goes on top?
So, Defiant is complete (as far as I'm going to take this build anyway) I'm a bit disappointed in the way it's come out, I was hoping for something that fit together better, like the models I lifted from X-Wing Alliance (X-Wing, Y-Wing & B-Wing in my intro thread).
I'll upload the 3ds, pdo and original *.mod files so if anyone wants to have a go at making this model better, go for it!
Since I've been working on Trek models since May I'm going to take break from the ST stuff for a bit, I'm all trekked out!
So, to quote a famous Austrian actor, "I'll be back...."
Here we go, upper hull with greebles
And then, due to the overlap I decided to "perform a bit of "surgery" to the hull & bridge section. The overlap makes some nice glue tabs!
And, the moment of truth....
The triangular bits fit into the gaps on the hull. (sorry didn't take that photo
)Ok. Issues. Firstly is the gap at the rear of the bridge section, that was me misjudging the overlap :banghead:
The rather big gap at the nose, I think this needs to be recessed more, but then the inner "wall" would need to be modified?
How deep to cut for the warp nacelles is a bit tricky. If you look on the template/upper hull build You can see where the texture is "garbled" which provides a guideline, but it's not enough. (Hence the gap on the upper hull & crumpling on the lower hull)
"Escape pods" are a bit proud, I think to halve the ring that goes on top?
So, Defiant is complete (as far as I'm going to take this build anyway) I'm a bit disappointed in the way it's come out, I was hoping for something that fit together better, like the models I lifted from X-Wing Alliance (X-Wing, Y-Wing & B-Wing in my intro thread).
I'll upload the 3ds, pdo and original *.mod files so if anyone wants to have a go at making this model better, go for it!
Since I've been working on Trek models since May I'm going to take break from the ST stuff for a bit
, I'm all trekked out!So, to quote a famous Austrian actor, "I'll be back...."
The "Escape pods" are actually the impulse deflection crystals (or whatever that thingy is that glows blue on the back of the Refit's saucer), and they are supposed to be inset in the hull on the Defiant.
Thanks for the advice, anyone who's building it, take note!
Based on this I would build the outer (thinner) ring onto the large blue disc as a cup, assemble the inner part inside your "cup" & then attach to the hull form the inside.
Based on this I would build the outer (thinner) ring onto the large blue disc as a cup, assemble the inner part inside your "cup" & then attach to the hull form the inside.
Two things the designer could do to send a clearer message on the model are:
a) put X's on the circles that have to be cut out.
b) draw an ASCII drawing (if he can't actually draw on the page) like this \/^\/ to indicate the shape of the parts.
a) put X's on the circles that have to be cut out.
b) draw an ASCII drawing (if he can't actually draw on the page) like this \/^\/ to indicate the shape of the parts.
Thanks MF, That's a good point, I felt that the numerous pictures would illustrate the folds & bends
- Apr 5, 2013
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Those Bussards have to be greebled. that is the problem with this model. If it is not greebled, it comes out looking flat, like a lithographic tin toy. Greeble on!
I wish I could go over this model in Rhino. I think I could give you some really good shapes to work with.
I wish I could go over this model in Rhino. I think I could give you some really good shapes to work with.
Actually Zathros, if you look at the reference pictures on my first post, the Defiant does not have much greebleing, hence why it looks so flat. I was trying to stay true to what we've seen on TV
- Apr 5, 2013
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It's very very slight, but it's there. Sometimes just the thickness of 110 lb. stock makes all the difference. IMHO.
In the picture below, all the lines in the surface, on a model maybe 14 inches long, would be probably 1/64th deep. That means that the basic shape could be made, then greebled with this plates added afterwards. It's there.
In the picture below, all the lines in the surface, on a model maybe 14 inches long, would be probably 1/64th deep. That means that the basic shape could be made, then greebled with this plates added afterwards. It's there.
- Apr 5, 2013
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To be honest, I found this one and downloaded it in case I ever thought of doing this model. Every pic I found was not very forthcoming with details either. Nice things is that all those plates (Blueish Grey, Light Grey, Dark Grey, ) can be added as one sheet pieces right over the existing graphic. The net effect would be awesome! If the model is not yet put together (parts are flat) the lines can be embossed using a dull Pizza Cutter cutting roller. It works very well. For smaller areas, a small machinist rule,with a small hammer and light tap. This is done all on the rubber working mat, as to not cut the paper. Just some brainstorming. Thank You for not taking my suggestions as criticisms. I do not mean anything that way, it's just observations. If my hands worked better than they have been as of late, (broken neck) I would be building, and put my money where my mouth is, but that has become problematic. I think that's why I admire you guys so much, your constant prolific building, and sharing of every process, it freaking awesome!
Thanks Zathros, I by no means consider myself good at designing models (hence the penchant to pull models from games ) After reading yours (and others) posts I can see that you (and others) are much more experienced in this area. As such I take any comments as constructive criticism, as in suggestions to make a better model.
Unfortunately I don't have the time or financial resources to get into the designing stage more (software licences are expensive, especially when spending South African Rand, $1=R11(roughly....))
) After reading yours (and others) posts I can see that you (and others) are much more experienced in this area. As such I take any comments as constructive criticism, as in suggestions to make a better model.Unfortunately I don't have the time or financial resources to get into the designing stage more
(software licences are expensive, especially when spending South African Rand, $1=R11(roughly....))
THE DC
Highly Esteemed Member
You did great.
A way to enhance your model, that would be more the responsibility of the builder, would be to laminate sections to give more dimension. You've done a fine job of providing a platform for that.
Great workQ
A way to enhance your model, that would be more the responsibility of the builder, would be to laminate sections to give more dimension. You've done a fine job of providing a platform for that.
Great workQ