Tufer

Groan.....it's a tough life, but someone has to do it. Eat a crab for me, Ted. I am using 3M brand multipurpose transparency film, part number CG6000. My guess is that any name brand inkjet film will work as well. It is a bit pricy compared to paper (package of 100 figures out to nearly 50 cents per sheet), but very cheap compared to photoetch. I've also found that, if I didn't print the entire sheet, I can trim off the unused partial sheet and run it through the printer a second time. I am using an Epson Photo 820 using generic ink cartridges (in other words, no extra-hootie-special printer), and am getting good, crisp copy. The film makes nice, tight bends without splitting, and it holds shape well after it's formed. I use superglue to apply it to the model (again, I cheat and use a superglue brand that has a brush applicator bottle....kind of like nail polish, come to think of it). I carefully tack the piece in place, and then brush on as small an amount of glue as possible onto the full length of the join. I try to touch the brush against the paper rather than the film, and let the glue be "sucked" into the joint by capillary action. That is the theory, anyway....my hands are not quite as steady as they once were, so plenty enough glue winds up on the film. It is apparent it's there on close inspection, but does no craze the film like plastic glues would, and is transparent enough that it is not really noticible from normal viewing distance. Anyhow, I figure if the film is good enough for JSC, it is OK with me. Another big advantage is that you can draw up "custom fit" stanchion spacings, and can depict "drooping" chain across gangway openings, etc. I"m even planning on using it to depict the anchor chain on this build.
 
Ted, this pic's for you. I initially intended making the depth charge racks from card, but gave up after a couple of attempts to cut out 3-pixel-wide girders. This build is stretching both my building skills and my camera to the limits. After a session with photoshop, I got the pic to almost be presentable, but you can get the idea of how they came out using transparency film instead. I imagine the purists are raising their eyebrows, but I have a feeling they aren't even viewing this thread anyway.
 
Hi, Darwin! :D

Looking real good! I've got to try that clear plastic, it really does a great job with those little rails, and now the depth charge racks.

@ Ted, you lucky guy! When I was growing up in NJ my parents tried to take us to Cape May each year. Beautiful beaches, great food! I haven't been back in quite some time but hope it hasn't changed all that much in 30 years.

Nice, clean build, Darwin!
More when you can!

Cheers!

Jim
 
Cheat??!! What do you mean, CHEAT??!! This is just a very neat solution to a very awkward problem! Otherwise, you have the awful dilemma, do I make squiffy railings out of thread and glue, do I lash out a bunch of money on etchings, or do I just leave the railings (depth charge racks, aerials (sorry, antennas...) and anything else thin and delicate off my model entirely? No, problem solved!

I'm off to get some transparent film for my printer....

Thanks Darwin! And no more of this apologetic modesty!

Tim P
 
I'm wondering if I am ever going to run out of the little round things to have to make. Only about another dozen depth charges and three more cannon barrels. The masts I'm gonna make from dowels.
 
Darwin, I too have the same "affliction". I used to take a hot knife under all the little turrets and things on the revell models to make the plastic "mushroom" so the things would turn and could be "aimed" and not fall out. I got jammed up on Revell's Midway because the turrets were mounted on those high barbette things and I couldn't make the pins rotate without the turrets falling off and out. Your Bagley is looking good especially those depth charge racks with the ash cans in them. I use a technique where I have a long rolled up tight tube with markings for the ash cans, then put a small brass rod in the center (usually the one I form the rolled tube over), then take a SHARP #11 blade and gently roll the tube under the knife and slice off dozens of the things. Then I use a hole punch I got from a bookbinders site, that goes from 1mm up to 4mm and cut the centres out. And yes there are literally dozens of the half formed cans and rolled things in the rug under the table. Anyways Thanks for the pics of the racks, they will definetly help later builds.
 
I'm getting ready to add the rest of the Blue's fangs. Here is a pic of the internals of the turret, to show how the gun is mounted to make it movable.
 
The guns came out so well I decided to at least try making the mast from paper. Didn't come out too bad....but I'm beginning to wish I'd rammed a length of wire down its length before gluing it in place. The mast stays will serve more than a decorative purpose on this one.
 
Great work, Darwin! :D

This is such a nice, clean build, with a great amount of detail done so very well...excellent, my friend, excellent! :D

I've given up with paper masts alone, particularly the thinner ones; I now always wrap it around florist wire to help roll them as well as to provide the extra support, especially if there are going to be wire and lines hanging from it and applying some tension to the mast.

Beautiful job...any more photos? :wink: (We never seem to get enough :lol: )

Cheers!

Jim
 
Progress. I thought I had taken a very large step backwards when, while attaching the last piece of rigging, the model slipped out of my hands and went clattering down to the floor. The mast broke in two right above the middle stays. The rat's nest of strings that resulted almost had me to the point of giving it a good yank and starting over with that part of the build. However, I was able to get it untangled and the mast glued back together (though with a very obvious wow in it). Only one of the rigging attachments gave way, which greatly helped get it back together again, and only two of the lines needed a bit of adjustment to get back to being taut. Looking at the photos, I noted a small piece of railing that tore off during the disaster....I was hoping I was done printing out parts, but not so. Still have the starboard side railings, liferafts, anchor, and propellor guards to go...the next set of pics should be the last for this model.
 
Barry, yes, the mast ladder is printed on transparency film. The rigging is sewing thread. Just for giggles and grins, here is a piece of the kit I started from on this build. I think more went into the redrawing than the building.
 
Hi darwin

Dropped or not its still a dam fine build, very good thread as well :D

As always MORE :lol:

Keep at it and hold tight next time :idea:

Rob
 
Well, it looks as if the Blue is finally a wrap. I think I will take a bit of a rest, and then do the second half of this string (the Ward, remember?).
 
Th..thh....thhhhh....thhhaaattttts alllll, folks. Now that I've worked with the transparency railings a bit, I think I'm ready to finish up the Helena. Then, on to the Mogami (down, Ted.).
 
All I can say is YYYEEEEAAAAHHHHH Baby :!: :!: :!: This is one great build! Thanks Darwin, and yes I'll be watching the Mogami build like any other olympic spectator sport. Good job sir, and thanks for all the good tips, T
 
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