TruckLover said:
Ok, now here's my next question, for the switches, should I go with #5's, #7's, or #10's?
Could I do #7's off the mainline and on the sidings with bigger/longer cars and #5's on sidings with smaller/shorter cars
or
do I need #10's off the mainline and on the sidings with bigger/longer cars and #7's on sidings with smaller/shorter cars??
Josh
The NMRA RP 12.7 for turnouts is at
http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp12_7.html
The closure radius (row (11)) is the key to choosing turnout number to match your curve radius. It it the radius of the curved part between the frog and points. The closure radius is NOT a substitution radius.
The NMRA RP (RECOMMENDED Practice) for turnouts is very much like US prototype turnouts. There is NO requirement for manufacturers to follow the RP. A manufactured #5 turnout could be anywhere from about a #4.3 to a #5.7, depending on the individual manufacturer. If you can find out the actual frog angle, you make a good guess as to what the closure radius might be. For instance, the Atlas HO #4 is really a #4.5, and has a 22" closure radius instead of the 16" closure radius of an NMRA #4.
Peco turnouts (unless specifically US prototype), and the Atlas Snap Track turnouts (at least in HO) have curved frogs, and are pretty much a constant radius throughout the curved leg of the turnout. You would have to find out what that radius/is was to judge whether they would be useful or not in your situation. I would guess the Peco "small" and the Atlas Snap turnouts would not work for you.
From the NMRA chart, anything from #6 and up would work on your main line. On your other trackage, a #5 might be a little tight (13.75" closure radius) but will probably work at low speeds. Remmber the curved portion is quite short, so most rolling stock will not have both trucks on the curved portion at the same time. Thus, the turnout will not seem as sharp as it really is if the frog is straight.
my thoughts, your choices