The Colors of The New Gomix/Fly Model 1:200 Scale Titanic
Hi all (and John John, of course),
Thanks a million, John John, for the A3 scanner link and recommendation - I will follow it up very soon!
Here are some cropped parts from the new Gomix/Fly Model 1:200 scale
RMS Titanic.
The first ones are what they look like when I scan and adjust them to look as close as the original plates as possible (with my screen and room lighting).
The second ones and the halves of the pictures with the white crosses is how I feel it should look. These rather quick, pre-visualized alterations are based on pictures and contemporary research by the TRMA (the Titanic Research & Modeling Association, web page:
http://titanic-model.com/articles/p...PAGE_Paint Reference Main Page.htm#hull black).
The print with the side view of the liner is by Robert Hahn of Germany. The model photos of the bridge and fwd well deck and boat deck are taken by model builder Peter Davies-Garner and shows the coloring of his spectacular 18'
RMS Titanic model:
From the top and down:
1. The funnels and the 'White Star Line Buff' problem - a lot of research and speculation has gone into this color and several versions exist, ranging from 'peachy' nuances to 'pale mustard' yellows. For the correct 'Buff' color, all we have from the White Star Line today, is a color photo from the 50s. I suggest the second one:
2. The pine deck color. With the exception of the forcastle ('forc'sul'), the fwd and aft well decks and the poop deck (below), which were slightly darker, the boat deck and all the other decks were made of very light pinewood, with darker brown/red edges of the more expensive teak around all the deckhouses -
- so, as a kind 'in-between' first-hand coloring experiment, I suggest this second one. One would also have to do something about the contrast and the darker planks, which become more obvious as the decks lighten up. The edges will furthermore have to be darkened, to look like teak:
3. The dark, gray-black, hull plating color and the bright and saturated 'Yellow Chromate' stripe, which separates the dark hull from the upper white-painted areas. I suggest the coloring to the left (with the white X), also with a slightly more neutral, less blue hull:
4. The lower, rust-red, Harland & Wolff-standard, so called 'Red Lead' antifouling hull paint (below the water-line) - resembles the 'Rust-Oleum' hardware store-paint color (in the US).
My suggestion here (marked with a white X) is actually still far too red - it should be a more 'rusted' and darker shade of brown-red:
Compare this color to the plate below (by Titanic-researcher Robert Hahn), or, if you have access to a DVD-copy of James Cameron´s movie "
Titanic" - check the close-up scenes of the water-line, when the ship is leaving Southhampton harbor:
All in all, I guess I have to buy myself a larger scanner (A3+), because there are so many (and wide) parts that I think need color-adjusting on the new GOMIX model. By the way, there ARE instructions in English (and several other languages) - I just hadn´t seen all the pages. And, no, John John, I haven´t ordered any photo-etched railings yet. I have to get a lot more info before I do.
I would, naturally, be more than happy to hear all your views on my humble suggestions.
With these slight alterations, I still consider the new GOMIX/Fly Model
RMS Titanic to be a remarkable designing achievement, moreover, with a very modest price, considering what you get.
All the best,
Bengt
