Titanic For Dummies Thread

[NYC Irish]

Hello All



I have been a huge Titanic fan since the age of 6 or 7, even before Dr. Rob Ballard found and later explored the wreck I was fascinated with the story and the ship itself. At the age of 7 I bought and built the Taschen 1:200 Titanic (It was a foot longer than I was tall at the time There was another book, cannot recall the publisher, but it had 3 models in that book, one half model, with the inside visible as in the 1912 White Star Brochure, a second model of the Bow Wreck and a third of the Stern raised into the air, her final plunge.


I live 20 mins from Cobh which was named Queenstown in 1912 when the last passengers were ferried out to the Titanic and I often go there on Sunday mornings for breakfast with friends right across the road from what was the
White Star Lines Offices where those unfortunate passengers left. It beacme a successful restaraunt/bar/cafe in the late 90's but closed soon before I came back from NYC. Ill get some pics this weekend of it. My sister lives now in
Crosshaven, overlooking the last place Titanic dropped anchor just outside the Port of Cork


Anyway, the reason for this thread...I have read and reserched a lot and intend one day to build a model of the Titanic but I would like to bounce a few questions out there for discussion. I know of the TRMA but their wesbite is full
of tangled web postings (the layout is confusing and it is an annoying chore to follow a thread) and with respect the majority of members, I have encountered a few weirdo's and been on the recieving end of a few too brutal posted responses
when questioning things..( my personal favourite was the "any 1st year Titanic Student would have known that!!!!!")

I enjoy the Titanic as a subject, I love Models but I dont do not let it get to that kind of level... Im not a rivet counter but I do appreciate accuracy so I am hoping that the wealth of information I have seen being shared on the Titanic
build threads here in Cardmodels.net might be available here too in a condesnsed format and hopefully without the attitude..




So I am going to kick it off....


My two favourite references are The Fly-Model/ Gomix Titanic & the Peter Garner-Davies Titanic:


I picked up the PDG Model Book a few years ago, A book shop had it on a bargain table 2 weeks after the official release, I picked it up immediately and thinks it's a great tool for anyone building any model ship, not just the Titanic... I
think it is a stunning model and would love to have seen it when I was at the Titanic: The Exhibition in Florida but by that time they had sold it on to another exhibition. To me one of the most important things in that book is the
over all hull and shell plating lines. I have the Hahn 1:100 plans too but feel that the PDG ones, though smaller are a bit more managible, plus the Hahn ones do not have the wing Propellor positions marked out at all. L

Does anyone here have an opinion on the two for a better hull shape? By better I would mean what is generally accepted as closer to the original in shape and details of shell plating.


I was delighted to see that Gomix were offering the 1:200 Titanic. I had just finished up their 1:100 Kursk and was quite impressed with the fit and quality of printing with that kit and held out high hopes for the Titanic. Unfortunately
as many of you might agree the colours selected and used as well as general look of the kit is comical...well to me anyway they are and that has given me enough reason to not build it. However I do find that the overall shape and patterns
are very well done, as well as the amount of little details that seem to match the PDG model.

Does anyone else have these two and have you been able to compare them? I want to get a nice hull shape and plating lines how do each of them fair?

So that's how I will start, any opinion is 100% welcome and appreciated



Thanks all for your time



John John

 

[phlipmbirner]

John John,
I appreciated reading of your connnections with the Titanic. I'm sure it makes you feel a whole lot closer to your subject living and having lived so close to where Titanic's short lived history centered around.

I became much more interested in the Titanic after the death of an old Swiss-German shut-in I used to visit. The guy was in a nursing home when I met up with him. He spoke only a "Swisser-Deutsch" which in his extreem old age he had reverted back to. My German, what little of it I had, allowed only rudimentary communication with him. When he passed away it was the mid 1980's and he was in his late 90's. After the funeral I spoke with his son who told me it really was not such a sad occasion at all and that his dear departed father actually was living on about 70+ years of borrowed time. You see, back when his father was a young man and was immigrating to the USA he had missed the first boat for which he had purchased tickets. While he was intially upset, he soon felt a whole lot better because the boat he missed was none other than the Titanic.

I don't have a whole lot to contribute to the modelling of the Titanic. I'm glad you have mentioned some resources. I, too, have purchase the Fly-Model Titanic together with some laser cut railings and formers. I was excited when Fly-Model brought out the model. For a number of years there was nothing else close to it in terms of the desirable (at least for me) 1/200-250 scale. I've read with interest about the color issues with this model. I'm not sure it's going to make that much of a difference with me. While it would be possible to recolor it, I'm not sure its worth my efforts. What I might make up in trueness to color I would probably loose in the details lost when going from an offset printed model to a model now rendered by scanner and printed with an inkjet printer.

I will read with interest whatever you and everyone else might contribute to this thread.

Phil

 

[NYC Irish]

Hey Phil, thanks for the reply,

I had 38 views of this topic and no replies this morning, I was getting worried I might be too off topic for the board.

I have the railings too, they looked fine but would need a separate coat of white gloss to strengthen and get rid of the scorch marks. but then again I do not think that I will build this particular kit, it hurts my eyes... but I would like to use it as a reference as its does seem to be a good start off for a novice scratch builder like myself. At the moment I cannot build anything else but I do have a few questions along the way that I would like to throw out there, what I build and when I build it is a long time off, I just kinda like discussing it in a slower non fashion than other sites.

I did not know about the laser cut formers, Where did you get them and are they a good fit? Anyone else used the precut formers?

Thanks again Phil

Regards
John John

 

[phlipmbirner]

John John,
That's a good question. I had to go back and look at the box again and try to figure out where it was I had ordered everything from. I know I waited several months to try to order it from a USA address since my credit card and mailing address for that card is there. After waiting about 6 months with no one in the States stocking the kit, I finally broke down and ordered model, formers and railings from the GPM website out of Poland which seemed to be the most user friendly at the time. The formers are are actually a Fly-Model/Gomex product.

As for the fit and finish I can't say because I haven't started anything yet, and like you probably won't for the near future. I know they look very nice sitting there in their packaging but that's not much of an answer.

Looking at the Fly-Model bookletl again, I guess I can see where you would use this as a resource. There is actually a lot of information in the model itself and for the first time I noticed they actually have a set of English intructions included in the booklet.

 

[Bengt F]

RMS Titanic for Dummies

Hello John John,

What an admirable initiative - I find that this is a most commendable effort indeed!

Cobh (pronounced 'Cove', right?) is a very nice place - I went there with my family during our summer vacation trip to Ireland in 2004, and we saw the interesting Titanic emigrant exhibition in the harbour. I bought a fine black leather wallet there, which is still doing excellent service and still looks as new.

I also regard the huge 18' Peter Davies-Garner model (and his great scratchbuilding modelling book) and the FlyModel/GOMIX model as the two most important sources and inspirations for a truly amitious card model project. We have seen in a fine thread here recently, that the model sheets builds into an impressive model (not by itself, though), with ample detailing: http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165007

I agree that the odd colouring of the GOMIX model leaves a lot to flatbed scanning and Photoshop CS re-colouring and correcting but I am convinced it can be done, with some time and a lot of patience. The real problem, the way I see it (and probably the biggest 'time-eater'), are the decks; they are much too dark and the scale of the planking is too large, it seems.
The pattern is also annoyingly repetitive.

All of the port holes and superstructure windows of the GOMIX will also (of course) have to be cut out with a fine scalpel, leather hole puncher or small OLFA circle cutter (and furnished with real window panes, for example made out of 24x36mm transparency slide holder glass, plus cardboard backing in a suitable colour, for the correct scale depth). This of corse also leaves some room for some of the interiors, like the Palm Café, the gym, and other interesting places on the ship.
There are also metallic papers and cardboard in craft shops (with brass or gold surfaces) that might be employed for example for the triple screws (propellors).

I, too, got the Peter Davies-Garner book and the FlyModel/GOMIX model when they were released. The model is everything I hoped for, except obviously for the strange colouring. Here is a link to the Polish GOMIX site, by the way: http://www.gomixmodel.pl/produkt.php?id=1237
I have long thought about getting a decent flatbed scanner for the A3 format, to be able to scan (and color-correct) those big GOMIX sheets. A new EPSON Stylus PHOTO 3800 A2 printer would be very nice, too - that would allow for some up-scaling of the model sheets. I had better start saving up some money for this.

The laser-cut railings by GOMIX are OK but I agree that some form of painting is a must to cover all the black lines - perhaps some sort of glossy spray paint?
Here is the link to GPM for the 1:200 scale cardboard railings: http://www.gpm.pl/eng/index.php?akcja=produkt&edycja=3086
Here are the internal hull formers - I found them, too, at GPM´s site - I am very tempted to buy them, I think I will, eventually: http://www.gpm.pl/eng/index.php?akcja=produkt&edycja=3152


Keep up the good work, John John - I will check in from time to time,
/Bengt :thumb:

 

[Bengt F]

RMS Titanic for Dummies

Hello again, John John,

I guess you got me going on the RMS Titanic subject, which is something of a passion for me . . .

I took the liberty of playing around with the colours of the GOMIX model in one of the photos in jkrenzer´s Titanic build thread - here below is the result:
The main problem as I see it, apart from that the colours are all wrong, is that there is TOO MUCH colour. I have reduced the saturation a lot in the second photo (and added an 'ocean colour' for the contrast) - we have to remember that if we are printing on an ink jet or a laser printer, the colours of the cartridges are very saturated and bright. In the real world, the RMS Titanic was painted with the colours of the period (which probably wasn´t all that saturated), and it had futhermore been subjected to all kinds of weather (some sun, at least daylight) for a while, which bleeches the colours, and colours are also dampened by distance, and as the Titanic was such a huge object, the colours were seen through the mist or haze of the air, which have a 'cooling' effect. So, if we want a scale effect of the colours and if we are to attempt to improve on the model, I suggest a heavy de-saturation and correction towards a slightly 'cooler' colour scale of the Fly Model/GOMIX model sheets. Mind you, before doing this, we have to seek permission from the model´s Polish designer, Ryszard Bones:


1. Original photo by jkrenzer (only slightly sharpened with 'Unsharp Mask' in Photoshop CS:

2. Here is the photo that I have been playing around with - I have compared it with the colour suggestions on the TRMA web site and Peter Davies-Garner´s model photos, as seen in the photo below this one - please note that the whole image is a bit too dark, that the third funnel in the photo (the fourth, or 'dummy' funnel on the real ship) is still too saturated and that the decks are still much too dark - the area immediately below the elevated compass platform is pretty good in colour but should be quite a bit brighter still:

3. The crow´s nest, part of the forecastle, forward well deck and navigating bridge of Peter Davies-Garner´s amazing 18-foot wooden model:

Any view or comments on this colour experiment (please note that my spelling of 'colour' is strictly British)?

Best,
Bengt in Stockholm


PS. For some reason, the photos (above) that have been downloaded to Photobucket and posted here are a lot DARKER than the original ones on my desktop - very strange . . .

PS PS. I have included a link to the thread about a year ago, where I did some preliminary colour experiments on parts of the Fly Model-GOMIX 1:200 scale sheets: http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152433&highlight=Model+1:200+Titanic&page=2

 

[Bengt F]

RMS Titanic for Dummies

John John,

I just couldn´t help myself - I went and ordered the laser-cut hull formers and bulkheads. Expensive, they are, and heavy, too! Titanic - God, help us!

Bengt :cry:

 

[phlipmbirner]

Bengt,
I think you've made a very good observation about the de-saturation of the colors of the Fly-Model Titanic. Looking at my only other resource, a discount bargin bin book by Leo Marriot named "Titanic," your renderings on color look much closer to the color illustrations in this book than do the Fly-Model parts.

Problem is my only experience with Photoshop is to create a new part that I've messed up from the original printed paper model which was scanned just in the event that I did mess up a part. Just creating a replacement part in the correct color seems to take me an endless amount of monkeying around with all the Photoshop settings and trial prints to see if what's on the screen comes out the same on the printer--and that's if the part is only one color. Two colors and I could spend weeks trying to get things correct.

If I was recoloring my best bet would be to look around for color chips of which there would be a majority opinion of their historical accuracy. Is there someone out there that has created an internet set of color chips for the Titanic? Or perhaps a better question might be does the Peter Davies Garner publication or any other printed publication have hisorically accurate color chips? Anytime you start going from computer to website to another computer to printer you are going to have slight changes in color as you noted above.

Another problem you've noted is the fact that the model is an A3 size and most scanners can only go A4 or 8 1/2 X 11 inches. Some of the decking parts would have to be cut up to rescan. Perhaps this is no problem for a Photoshop guru but does raise issues for lesser lights like me. Even just scanning a model this size means you better have a good handle on how accurately your scanner does scan. My scanner is off about 1 mm for every 25 cms lengthwise. That can be corrected somewhat via the software. But there there are variations from side depending on whether you are nearer the top or the bottom of the scanner. This isn't much of an issue with a 1/33 scale airplane but it will be with a one meter plus long ship as you place one scanned part next to another and another, etc. Again getting the correct industrial/professional scanner might be part of the solution but things start to get expensive. Add to that a printer that gets things printed out sharply and I'm back to where I started. I'm probably going to have to be happy the printed Fly-Model card model of the Titanic.

By the way, I think you will like the laser cut parts you've ordered. You will probably save the cost in not having to buy cutting blades and glue to laminate enough card stock together to have made the formers the old fashioned, by-hand way. And if your time is worth money (probably not because this is a hobby) then you will have really made out well.

I look forward to more of your observations. Thanks.
Phil

 

[phlipmbirner]

You know, I just had another thought. I'll just build the Fly-Model Titanic as is with the colors. 20 or so years from now, when I finally get it done, people will be marvelling at the color accuracy of the model little realizing that the colors faded over the time it took me to put it together. Perhaps this darker color registration of the Fly-Model Titanic is just their way to insure that the colors will be correct when someone finally does get it all together decades later after starting their titanic (pun intented) project.
Phil

 

[Bengt F]

RMS Titanic for Dummies - Colouring

Phil,

I doubt very much that fading of the colours over time of the Fly Model-GOMIX model would result in accurate-looking colours. For example, what would happen to the already light pink bottom of the hull? Or the dark grey or black areas? Please note in the manipulated photo above that I have made the black hull and the tops of the funnel even darker black than on the original model. I also doubt that the dark decking would get the proper colour.

Colour chips? I think what you mean is; are there RMS Titanic paint and colour recommendations anywhere on the web, around which there are reasonable consensus as to their accuracy? The answer is yes, there is - at the TRMA web site: http://titanic-model.com/articles/p...in Page/WEBPAGE_Paint Reference Main Page.htm

I have to look at Leo Marriot´s card model - I remember having seen the name somewhere a while ago but I haven´t yet seen the model.

Another model which is very historically accurate in the colouring is the Möwe-Wilhelmshavener Modellbaubogen Verlag 1:250 scale model (a waterline model, though, just as the Polish JSC and German Schreiber-Bogen 1:400 scale models) - it is readily available from the publisher in Germany for 42 EUR, here - click 'Liners, 1:250 scale, and go to 'Seite 2' (page 2, or 'weiter')': http://www.papermod.de/D-shop/index1.html

This, I would say, is probably the most accurate model available today, when it comes to historically correct colouring. It is also very detailed for it´s scale - there are 13 sheets for the model.
There is a very nice downloadable 'Modellporträt' of this 1:250 model by expert card model builder Reinhard Lachmann on the Kartonbau.de forum, with many excellent close-up colour photos - check it out here: (added new link, March 31st, to Modellporträt Nr. 36): http://kartonbau.de/wbb2/filebase.php?fileid=42&lim=60&sid=6151e488154c060a5bd3f65d5e024d85

That´s all for now,
/Bengt :thumb:


PS. I noticed that in the photo below of the Möwe-Wilhelmshavener 1:250 scale model, there are no light grey canvas roofs (colour: 'Light Admirality Grey') on the navigating bridge roof top, neither on the two wing cab roofs on either side of the navigating bridge. Please compare with the Davies-Garner model photo above. If this card model is attempted, they should probably be added on top of the planked-coloured roofs. The painted canvas tops offered extra weather protection.
(Correction, March 31st): I have now studied the Modellporträt Nr. 36, mentioned above, and it is evident that the Möwe-Wilhelmshavener model HAS the grey canvas roofs on the two wing cabs. The bridge roof has the planked roof - it could very easily be covered with a thin quadrant layer of light grey 80 g/m2 paper. The well, poop, boat, and promenade decks are bit greenish, at least in the photos, and the White Star Line 'Buff' colour of the four funnes is perhaps a bit too saturated and too yellow - a better colour is more pale and light beige-yellow, not bright lemon yellow.

PS PS. I have also included a link to the thread about a year ago, where I did some preliminary colour experiments on parts of the Fly Model-GOMIX 1:200 scale sheets: http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152433&highlight=Model+1:200+Titanic&page=2

 

[phlipmbirner]

Bengt,
I guess I knew it would be too good to be true to have a model just fade into a correct shade of colors but a lazy man can dream. Speaking of a lazy man, you saved this lazy man lots of time with all the links you supplied. Good stuff!. Thanks for all the links and particularly paint recommendations one.

I just downloaded the model build up of the Moewe-Wilhemshavener build. I remember it now. I like the scale. I don't like that it doesn't have the full hull. I wonder if the Fly Model hull could be adapted to the Wilhemshavener model? Then one would only be recoloring the one bottom color.

The reference I spoke of by Leo Marriott is not a model but a book from PRC Publishing Ltd; London; copyright 1997; ISBN 1 85648 4335. I would not try too hard looking for it. It was a cheap discount book at the time I stumbled across it. Beggers cannot be choosers here in Zambia for reference material and probably the only reason it was here was because the movie had come out sparking some interest in the subject.

You had mentioned above also about the windows on the Titanic. Looking again at the model I didn't realize all the portholes in various sizes. I then look a look at all the windows on the upper decks. As you said, one could spend considerable time detailing not only transparent windows but then interiors. More challenges.

Thanks,
Phil

 

[Bengt F]

Titanic Amended Full Hull Model by chapuzas100, etc

Hi Phil,

Sure - a scratchbuilt full hull can be nicely blended in with either the Möwe-Wilhelmshavener or JSC 1:400 scale waterline models - it has been done before.

Check out this very interesting thread in this forum by experienced Spanish modeller chapuzas100, where he very skilfully built up a bottom hull for the JSC model (a model which also sports very true colors of the decks and funnels, by the way): http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=159089&highlight=Titanic+amended+full+hull

There is also the Betexa Titanic model, from the Czech Republic, which is a slightly smaller full hull model in 1:450 scale - just click 'Technical Models' and 'ships' and you will find it: http://www.betexa.cz/eng/btx-ramy.html

Cheers,
Bengt :thumb:

 

[David T. Okamura]

Beware the Betexa Titanic. The paper is glossy and there are significant inaccuracies. For instance, the lifeboats have red undersides (should be all white), and the superstructure is actually a very pale blue-gray! I can't recall the deck detailing exactly, but I think it was rather crude. The hull has simplified contours and no internal bracing, so trying to fit this onto a waterline model will be problematic.

You might be able to remedy most of these problems by scanning the parts and using a photo editing program to correct the colors. The name "TITANIC" on the bow is in an incorrect font, so that could be replaced, too. (It's not THAT noticeable, but those familiar with the liner can usually sense "something's not quite right".)

For the price and intended audience, it's a great deal. However, cutting out all the small parts and forming the hull might be frustrating for the first-time paper modeler.

 

[Bengt F]

Betexa Titanic Model, 1:450 Scale

Thanks for the info, David,

This is very valuable info for these considering this scale. It´s interesting, though, - I have never really taken an interest in this smaller 1:450 model (smaller than the famous DeLuxe Minicraft pl-stic model) or scrutinized it up close but if you look at the photo on the web site, it looks a bit crude, rather like the larger 1:200 scale Taschen book model:

The funnels have a peculiar orange colour (like to GOMIX model) and if you study the hull, it looks a bit 'wavy', probably due to too thin card stock. jkrenzer solved this problem very elegantly on his large 1:200 Fly Model-GOMIX 1:200 scale build with large sheets of balsa.

The JSC or Möwe-Wilhelmshavener models are probably a better choice, if you are really serious about your RMS Titanic modelling. However, why stop at 1:400 or 1:200 scale, when you can live out your dreams and build a 1:58 wooden model in your garage or living room - that is, if the wife lets you (photo from the TRMA forums)?:

Cheers,
/Bengt :thumb:

 

[David T. Okamura]

From the photo you can also see the two-dimensional ventilators, crude anchor and oversized portholes. The thought of somehow reducing all those portholes and keeping them in alignment killed my plans to scan and photo-edit the part sheets.

 

[Art Decko]

(...) colours are also dampened by distance, and as the Titanic was such a huge object, the colours were seen through the mist or haze of the air, which have a 'cooling' effect.

Bengt, I'm so glad you mentioned color saturation.

That is one of the most common problems I see on card model graphics (and also in other areas such as model railroad layouts and pc game graphics). Although well-known to photographers and artists, I think few model designers appreciate this effect. The result are models that look "toyish" due to overly vivid colors.

As Bengt pointed out, as an object becomes more distant, the colors become less saturated. "Saturation" is the "depth", "richness" or "vividness" of a color. If you compare a photo of a red brick building taken from ten feet away, and a second photo taken from several blocks away, you will easily see this effect. Or just look at a photo of a distant mountain.

This effect is caused by water and other particulate matter in the air blocking some of the light. The more air you are looking through, the greater the effect. As distance increases, colors not only become more de-saturated (appearing duller or more muted), they usually become lighter, with decreased contrast. The degree of change depends on the light and the clarity of the air.

This affect of distance on color saturation means that finding some perfect set of color-chips for the Titanic would be useful only as a starting point. The color chips would only show you what the the real colors looked like from a close range. When viewing a model, depending on the scale, the implied distance could be more like hundreds of yards. At those ranges the colors (including blacks) would normally appear significantly differently.

Taking this effect into account is an easy way to make scale models look more realistic, particularly models of large things like ships, where the scale viewing distance is greater. For example, on most models, dark greys will look more realistic than black. In nature, few things are truly black, especially at any significant distance.

One last thing ... Bengt, I cannot resist asking ... what's up with the Junkers flying wing???

 

[NYC Irish]

Now

Now we are rolling,

I was in Cove last weekend, here is the former Whitestar Line Offices,
From behind it looks bad, a fire recently polished off a few rooms, The front is now a Post Office

This is the Pier those poor soles used to board the tender that brought the last passengers out to the anchored Titanic, not much left really...

It used to be a great place for a dinner..

John John

 

[Bengt F]

Betexa Titanic Model, 1:450 Scale

David,

I see what you mean. It appears the Betexa model is a simplified version, perhaps for very young paper modellers.

Ralph Currell´s RMS Titanic model at the small 1:1200 scale (only 9 inches long) seems to be more detailed and accurate that the Betexa 1:450 scale model.
Ralph´s model is actually a very, very accurate and beautiful model, with a very good colour representation (With perhaps the exception that I, personally, feel that the gray hull should be a little bit darker gray/black):
http://www.currell.net/models/titanic.htm

Best,
Bengt :thumb:

 

[Bengt F]

Colour Saturation in Paper Models

Hi Art Decko,

I agree with all you said about colour saturation in card models. I often scan models just to be able to take away the garish colours, which makes them look like toys. In the case of the RMS Titanic, one has to be very careful with applying too much colour. If I ever get a bigger scanner, I will do several colour tests of my re-colored sheets, on the actual A3 heavy-duty photo ink jet paper that I have selected. I usually use a very good, matte photo paper (230 g/m2 paper weight), that is designed to work well with saturated color photos or black & white photos with very deep blacks.

Re. the Junkers G.38ce model:
I am glad you still remember it - this model is very close to my heart. Last spring, I met with a test pilot in Berlin, who is now about 95 years old and who had flown this big bird at Tempelhof-Berlin. He said it was a dream to fly, very steady at slow speeds, due to the enormous wing area.

For the moment, the whole project is stashed away in a big box. It came to a temorary halt when I started re-designing and re-painting the fuselage around the windows. There is some work still to be done there. The wings are almost done, though, so as soon as I get a rendering of the fuselage, that I am happy with, I will probably continue with the wing interior and passenger seats. There is a lot of interior work on the fuselage, too (walls & dividers, bulkheads, floors, passenger seats, window curtains, cockpit controls, etc), that I have to do from scratch in paper, card and balsa. I have already promised a hobby shop in Stockholm that they can have it as a paper showpiece, when it is completed. It will then replace a detailed and weathered Schreiber-Bogen 1:20 scale Fokker Dr.I 425/17, in a muddy French WW I airfield diorama, which is in their window at the moment.
I would like to try to build it in corrugated silver paper, too, some day, along with a Junkers Ju-52/3m, in Lufthansa colours and in the same scale. Dream on . . .

Best,
Bengt :thumb:

 

[Bengt F]

Hi John John,

Yes, this thread is rapidly becoming a great meeting place for RMS Titanic discussions.

I recognize the quay and the narrow road along the harbour in Cobh from your photos - we parked our hired car just nearby that yellow building and walked over to the Titanic exhibition, which I think was in the old railroad terminal. We had great, sunny weather all day, before driving on to Cork and Kilkenny.

It´s interesting to see that the wooden emigration pier is still there - something should be done about it, before it falls apart completely into the bay. I remember seeing black & white photos in the exhibition of Irish men and women embarking on one of the two tenders, for the short trip out to the majestic liner.
Thanks for sharing those fine photographs.

Bengt