The Wicked Wench!

Kevin G

Kevin G

Member
Nov 27, 2003
105
0
16
Muskegon, Michigan
Wicked Wench model designed by Robert Nava.
Model is available as a FREE download from http://www.disneyexperience.com/
If you have never been to this site before I highly reccomend taking some time and checking out everything that is on offer here. It is a wonderful site that has much more than just paper models on offer.
The model consists of 26 pages of parts and you will also need to print the first page of the instructions for the scroll that is used as the name plate on the stand. I did not print out the rest of the instructions since my build area is on my desk right next to the computer and it saves on paper and ink. All pages were printed on 110# card, there is no suggestions as to what paper to print on in the directions.
The Build:
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First off is the stand and name plate. This is simple and straight forward, instructions are clear and the simple diagrams are easy to follow. The textures alone on the stand are amazing to say the least. I did have one problem here, no matter how i tried I could not get the scroll/name plate to print out at the right size (page size in the PDF file is different from that of the parts pages) so Instead of wasting time trying to be smarter than my computer I decided to modify part 1J ( the back of the scroll) and cut it down to fit the smaller scroll I ended up with.
The finished stand
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Next is the hull. Note: part 2A does not connect to 2B with the tabs like they are marked, the tabs actually connect to part 2H. Same goes for part 3A, the tabs marked 3B actually connect to part 3H.
No real problems with the hull. There are no formers (wich confused me at first lol) you just follow the instructions and pretty soon you have a hull! My port side hull came out a little long and my starboard side came out a little short. This is due to my apparent lack of skill and is in no way the fault of the design of the model. The upper hull walls are tricky to get in to place right but with a little patience and a bit of luck (in my case anyways) they come out perfect. With every piece that I add to this model the hull just kinda pulls itself into the right shape, It is very interesting seeing it gradually take the proper shape instead of having it just be right or wrong from the start. I don't know if this is designed this way or not but it sure is working for me!
Finished upper hull walls
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Upper inside hull. 2 parts are labeled 4F, the part located in "parts_4.pdf" that is marked 4F should be part 4D, it isn't hard to figure out though since they will only fit on one side of the ship anyways.Building the inner hull and deck is extremly straight forward and posed no problems for me at all. One note though, the directions do not tell you to reinforce the deck. I went on the assumption that all ship decks need to be reinforced and used some nice thick illustration board. Adding the deck and inner hull is a bit tricky since it is all built first and then added to the hull as one piece. Instructions say "take your time" and I have to agree 100%. The extra weight from the illustration board doesn't seem to be a problem for the model and it actually made the hull a bit more rigid. If I didn't strengthen the decks then this would be the end of this build. The model could not take the force needed to place the masts on the decks (at least mine wouldn't have). I highly reccomend reinforcing the decks. Unfortunatly the 6 pics i took at this step did not come out (you think I would check them, ya right!) so a pic of some detail work on the bow will have to do.
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Masts: Since I have never made a mast before I was expecting the worst but it turns out that I actually like making masts and it didnt take long to get the hang of it! What can you say about masts? They are long roud things that stick out of the deck and you hang sails on them lol. Actually had no problems with them at all. As stated before, I sure am glad that I reinforced the decks since you have to press down and hold when attaching the masts.The fore mast is split into two parts and is meant to look broken, first time I have seen this feature on a model and its kinda cool.
Instructions for the main mast has you build the crows nest before assembling the two parts of the mast. If you have large fingers or are not an expert builder I would reccomend to add the base of the crows nest only, then build the mast and after it is done go back and add the remaining parts of the crows nest. There are four parts that have to be added that are inside of the nest and it would be extremly difficult to get them right if the nest was built first. To be fair here I am saying that from the standpoint of a novice model builder and don't mean that the instructions are wrong or anything like that, just telling the way I found easiest to get the job done.
Broken Fore mast
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Crows nest
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Side view
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Well, that is about as far as I have gotten so far. Any questions or comments are welcome!
Thanks for looking!
More to come soon!
 
Kevin:

Thanks for the narrative and the pictures on build of the Wicked Wench! I have it saved , but haven't gotten around to doing anything with it.

To save my printer cartridges, I'll probably go to one of the office supply places and have them print it.

Keep up the excellent work!

CharlieB
 
this is an excellent WIP picture story of a build. a great beginners guide. thanks. did you splice the fore mast back together? Looks like your going with an undamaged build rather than the as released version of a crashed foremast.
 
Nice narrative. The insights you state about the build are very good. I have noticed in some elaborate builds that there sometimes some small deviations from the instructions that would make the build go easier. It is nice to see them stated. Also, despite the efforts of the designer, there are sometimes some small discrepencies in the instructions. Thanks for pointing them out. This topic will be helpful when (or if :oops: ) I get around to building the Wicked Wench.:grin:
 
Kevin,

What a cool model... That looks like a great build for someone looking for a free download model... Keep us posted on your progress.

Hate to hear about your setback on the Missouri... I hope you aren't delayed too long.
 
First off, this is an awesome thread!

When I design & build my models, I work on the premise that if an amateur like me can build it, just about anybody can.

I leave out any reference to paper types, because I've found that everyone has their own preference. I design all of my models to be built on regular printing paper, which anyone with a printer usually has lying around. All of my models are built with regular paper, and I rarely find any need for supports.

The ship hull does form the correct shape on its own. When I built mine, I actually did it the hard way. I glued the hull halves to a completed upper structure (walls and floor only). Getting one side of the hull glued was okay, but the other side was torture--there's no give for fingers or tools.

As for mislabled parts, it's common for me. This model has a TON of pieces, so it was hard to keep track of everything.

For this model, I cannot stress how much you really need to take your time! I usually take an hour or more just to cut and glue a couple of pieces together.
 
jleslie48 said:
this is an excellent WIP picture story of a build. a great beginners guide. thanks. did you splice the fore mast back together? Looks like your going with an undamaged build rather than the as released version of a crashed foremast.
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I don't know if Kevin G's going to splice the broken mast together, but you actually have to hold up the two pieces like that (tape or something) so that the sails and rigging can be assembled properly. Later, the two pieces are taken apart, and the broken mast is positioned in a fallen state (rigging will go lax).
 
You could create a small piece of round stock large enough to tighly fit inside either side of the hollow mast in order to help fit the 2 sections together.
 
Yes, something similar is suggested in the instructions. I believe a rod or stick is also suggested since the masts are hallow. It doesn't have to be perfect; it just has to stand up, face the right direction, and be able to hold the weight of the sail and some rigging.
 
Cool Post!

I bet this is the only Hobby in the World where you can communicate with the actual designer, make suggestions, and exchange input and ideas, and not have to deal with all the normal Red Tape!

Do you guys realized how amazing that is.......... even in this day and age?

Thanks for the building thread Kevin G and Trader Sam.... A BIG THANKS for the model! :grin:

Sorry bout the Mighty MO build, maybe someone here can help you out on your lost pieces.

john
 
Trader Sam said:
I don't know if Kevin G's going to splice the broken mast together, but you actually have to hold up the two pieces like that (tape or something) so that the sails and rigging can be assembled properly. Later, the two pieces are taken apart, and the broken mast is positioned in a fallen state (rigging will go lax).
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ahhh!!! I hadn't looked that carefully at the directions. thanks!!!
 
Wow, what do you say when the designer of the model comes along and says "this is an awesome thread"? Kinda makes you feel good.

Thanks for the kind words guys!
jleslie48, I intend on building as designed (although the idea of fixing the mast has crossed my mind). The top piece is just sitting there for the pic.

Doug, I have noticed the same thing about many build threads and am trying to put down everything I did different from the instructions. As for the discrepencies, there are only a few and they are minor and do not cause any problems anyways. And "if" is not an option, so look back again "when" you start to build this model :grin:

John, Yes it is amazing that in this hobby we can talk with the designers. I can't count the number of times that I have held something from another of my hobbies and thought "why the heck did they do it this way?", Here I can actually ask and get an answer most of the time! As for the Mighty Mo, It was my fault on the parts and the scans so as soon as I can afford another copy it will be back in the shipyard!

Trader Sam, First off thanks so much for the model. Hope pointing out the mislabled parts and stuff didn't come across as rude, that was not my intention. I find it amazing that you build all your models on regular printer paper with no support. If I had done this build on regular paper there would be more than just the foremast broken! It may have come out looking like the perfect shipwreck model though!:roll:
I built the full hull then the inner hull with decks and walls, then glued it into the hull, yeah little room to work but it made it! I also take moe than an hour to cut and glue a couple of pieces together so don't feel bad. As slow as I am I don't even have to try and take my time.
When I design & build my models, I work on the premise that if an amateur like me can build it, just about anybody can.
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Well with enough patience anyone cold build this model, but i think you have officially passed the "amateur" stage!
Thanks again guys. Hope to have another update tonight.
 
I view mistakes and alternate building suggestions as an opportunity to learn. As wildly popular as this model is, I haven't heard from anybody about mistakes until I read this thread today.

And as far as communicating with model creators, I'm always available--just drop me an email. Of course, with message boards, EVERYBODY can benefit and even join in the discussion. You couldn't do stuff like that too long ago.
 
Hi Kevin,

Thanks for this building thread,
very nice build,
please post more pictures soon.


Hi Trader Sam,

Any chance to convert this model to Black Pearl in the movie?
 
I don't want to 'hijack' this thread, but want to show my completed model.

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I wish I had seen KG's advice on reinforcing the deck, although I was able to manage. I liked the rigging, and recommend taking time and being gentle to achieve an appearance of taughtness without pulling too much on the actual masts. The damged sale adds a nice touch. I did make 'caps' for the mast tops to cover the holes there, and rolled up some tannish paper, cut slits to 'feather' it and insrted into the broken mast ends to give the appearance of splintered wood.

I hope this is an encouragement to Kevin to keep plugging away, a note of thanks to Robert for his good work, and encouragement to others to give this model a try.

Oh and one more thing: Robert posts a map to reproduce for the ship, but it is so well detailed, it can be enlarged over 600 times. This is the map held by a pirate in the ride and gives the location of the treasure at the end. Print it out at full size, cut it out, and then crunch it into a small ball. Slowly without ripping open it back up, and repeat the process until the paper feels flexible like linen. Give it a little curl and it adds a nice extra touch to the display!
 
Moonliner said:
Oh and one more thing: Robert posts a map to reproduce for the ship, but it is so well detailed, it can be enlarged over 600 times. This is the map held by a pirate in the ride and gives the location of the treasure at the end. Print it out at full size, cut it out, and then crunch it into a small ball. Slowly without ripping open it back up, and repeat the process until the paper feels flexible like linen. Give it a little curl and it adds a nice extra touch to the display!
Click to expand...


Dude! Great idea!:grin: :grin:
 
I hope this is an encouragement to Kevin to keep plugging away
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Just a note to let you know I have not given up. Been working on a 1:1 scale model of a sheet rock ceiling in the master bedroom and have not had a chance to work on the ship at all.
Note: this model is much more fun than putting in a new ceiling! :-D
Hope to have an update soon.
 
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