Tetters: one of the toughest track design elements is 2 frogs opposite. I think you've actually managed it. If the turnouts were just a bit closer together, you would have major problems from no guardrails.
Are the crossings in the slip switched?
Thanks. I honestly think it was somewhat of a fluke. However one of the things I did was use the guard rails to guage how I was going to line everything up. Once I saw that this was doable, I bit the bullet and went at it. It was another one of those, "success or failure" exercises of mine.
The idea is the have the slip switch completely operational. I've been working on some hinged pivots for the throwbars. The method comes from here...
Fast Tracks :: View topic - An Alternative to Solid Soldered Switchpoints -Newsletter #8
This allows to the TB to stay parallel pushed or pulled as with soldered switch points it follows a curved path inward towards center which will cause binding and pulls the points off the hinges I also made. I used railjoiners as small hinges as the # 6 points I am told are too stiff if left untouched to be thrown by a switch machine or manual ground throw. They break stuff this way apparently...
I used medium spikes (filed off the blacking, cut the head to get a tight fit on the rail base, and trimmed the length), removed the copper cladding from the top of the throwbar, drilled a hole for each spike in the throwbar and soldered the spike to rail while in the hole. The only problem I'm having is the spikes after a few test throws come loose from the hole. Now I left a little bit at the end of each spike and crimped the ends hoping that would hold them down and keep the points pressed against the throwbar.
That said I'm not entirely convinced on the reliability of these pivots. I am mulling over some alternate method to keep the points from pulling up and off the throw bar. I've been thinking about getting some thin brass, to create small plates to solder onto the points, drill a hole in the brass and then use some form of rivet or pin which I can secure from underneath the bottom. The pivots themselves cannot be soldered in anyway as the throw bar needs to follow a straight path when thrown.
Something like this...
I'm curious as if anyone has any suggestions to help me solve this little dilemma. It's really the only thing keeping me from going ahead installing this latest contraption on my layout.
0845 hours...A thought had occured to me while I was digging out of the latest dumping of snow that old man winter, the stooge he is, had left for me during night. I figured I could use a piece of styrene of comparible width to the copper clad pcb tie, however I was thinking more square shaped stock as opposed to flat stuff and drill small holes into that which I could thread small screws. I could carefully screw down (not too tight) the brass strips soldered to the points and use the styrene strip as a throwbar. I wonder how well that would work out? I was initially thinking brass stock, then thought of styrene as I still need to use a material for the throwbar that I can isolate electrically.
Still any other suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.