how do you get the thread (wires) going from pole to pole stuck on the pole. Do you tie the thread, glue it on. I fiddled with it for hours and couldn't get it to work well
telephone pole wires
- Thread starter Collyn
- Start date
The only way I can think of, having only done it once, is use fine thread, and once it is firmly in place on one end, string it along pole to pole, and just touch glue to the insulator. With no tug, it sticks enough to go on to the next pole. In minutes they are firmly done.
If that doesn't work, I didn't say it
Lynn
If that doesn't work, I didn't say it
Lynn
Use an elastic thread, that way if you hit it later you won't take out half your poles. I'd wind it around the insuator, glue it and move on. (Using CA)
I used black thread and some CA touched ever so carefully to the insulator, but if I was to do it all again, I'd use an elastic line since the thread shows dust when you take close-up shots of the layout.
Berkshire Juction at: http://www.berkshirejunction.com/ makes E-Z Line. It a stretchy spandex material that looks good and will expand when touched and return to it's original position. Go to the web site and click on 'Scenery Products'. They even have a video of it.
You secure this line to plastic poles with a dab of Acetone. Just wrap it around the insulatetor and put a dab of it on. I glues it almost immediately.
You secure this line to plastic poles with a dab of Acetone. Just wrap it around the insulatetor and put a dab of it on. I glues it almost immediately.
I second the Berkshire Junction elastic line. I wrap the line around the bottom of the insulator one time and move on. Then after I get a bunch of it strung, I go back with Testors clear model cement in the bottle with the small brush applicator and dab a little on each insulator to hold it securely in place.
Works like a charm. :thumb:
Works like a charm. :thumb:
I didn't even know they had elastic stuff like that. will diffenently try that. And for some odd reason i didn't even think of CA. I use it all the time for other things
I strongly disagree with elastic thread. Over a short period it will lose it's elastic-ness (it's always been hard for me to say the right word for it) and sag which will then look bad. The best way with the best results are the regular black thread with ACC with an accelerator. There is a regular black thread which does hold dust but then there is a really nice thread like what would come with a Kibri crane kit that looks fantastic.
I agree with Charles, I saw this happen with the Mid-Coast club. They ended up pulling up the elastic thread and re-doing the the line with regular black thread :thumb:
Collyn said:
You don't need CA. Just a dab of ordinary Acetone or nail polish remover will melt the plastic long enough to bond the spandex thread to it.
I have seen this used and it holds up pretty well. It's won't sag if you put a little tension on it while gluing it. Spandex thread expands 20 times or more it's original length and comes back into place.
If you look at telegraph wires they do sag over time. Copper and aluminium strech over time due to the weight of the wire between the poles. I've seen black thread do the same. The thing I don't like about black thread is it frays. Unless you use wax like ship builders do it will fray over time.
COMBAT said:
I still haven't touched the Cutty Stark my grandma gave me. It has the added bonus of having to dip wooden parts in water and bending them to fit around the hull and such.
ops: 
KCS said:
Hmmm...... Never occured to me that that would happen, but if you say so, I can believe it. What to do.....
Oh! Idea. WHat about using regular thread (Bear with me guys, I'm thinking out loud for the new layout in planning) and Rix brand poles? The reason I say this is because of the reason I went to elastic thread from Berkshire Junction: Something like a hand or derailed equipment hits one pole with regular thread and it does a domino effect where it takes out 4 or 5 poles. THAT is a real pain in the neck to fix. BUT. I'm thinking if you use the Rix poles and arms since they attach seperately, that if you were to hit a pole, the end result would be just an arm or two coming unattached at the glue joint, a simple fix and you aren't having to re-string wire.
Do you guys think this would be a good solution or am I out in left field as usual? hamr
I'm watching this thread with interest because I will eventually make use of the info on my layout. Around here, all the power lines do have sag between each pole. And not so much from the aluminum stretching, but they install it that way. So which is better, regular thread or elastic?
On a side note, my experience is that they don't use copper wire for utility lines all that often. What they use is aluminum wire wrapped around a steel reinforcing wire, in other words, the wire is comprised of an inner steel strand with aluminum strands wrapped around it. The only effect this has on us as modelers is that you wouldn't want to use copper colored thread.
On a side note, my experience is that they don't use copper wire for utility lines all that often. What they use is aluminum wire wrapped around a steel reinforcing wire, in other words, the wire is comprised of an inner steel strand with aluminum strands wrapped around it. The only effect this has on us as modelers is that you wouldn't want to use copper colored thread.
CCT70 said:
I think it would work. I peronally may not be grasping the issue, but i always figured that you just put a drop of glue on the bottom of each insulator and glued a thread there, with the appropriate sag. I have the rix poles, and although i haven't used them yet, it was my understanding that you mounted down the poles into your layout one way or another, either placeing them in a hole, or nailing them in. How does a locomotive yank them out?
COMBAT said:Your hand OR arm does when you bump them reaching in for something.
hmmmm..... excellent point. I'm ever so more frightened of that, because i am putting up catenary one of these days. i just realized i practically fenced my layout off from myself!