Space, the final frontier..... He's dead, |Jim.
- Thread starter Cybergrinder
- Start date
Lighting solution part 2....
Considering the amount of LEDs that reside in the warp nacelle and to prevent light "bleeding" into areas where it's not supposed to I came up with this! A blue LED sits atop this construct, with two more in the rear section. (still got to figure that part out...)
Considering the amount of LEDs that reside in the warp nacelle and to prevent light "bleeding" into areas where it's not supposed to I came up with this! A blue LED sits atop this construct, with two more in the rear section. (still got to figure that part out...)
Thanks @dirkpitt289 ! And I haven't even switched the light on yet! (ok, I have while testing, but no photos yet 
)
)
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,216
- 228
You can use shrink tubing on LED's to cut down on the side lighting leaking. The tops can be polished or cut at an angle, then polished too, as long as you don't expose the Cathode and Anode.
Last edited:
That is a great suggestion, which I used for the blue LED on top of the nacelle
Here's the body of the nacelle, closed up
Top view
And front view with bussard collector
And (almost) completed! (I went and cut out the starboard sides when I was working on the port nacelle
Here's the body of the nacelle, closed up
Top view
And front view with bussard collector
And (almost) completed! (I went and cut out the starboard sides when I was working on the port nacelle
How are you going to prevent light leaks on paper? On styrene we paint the inside of the plastic black or even silver
There's a cardboard inner that takes care of most of the leaks in the nacelles. I also build "light-boxes" to mount the LEDs. If you look at some of the earlier pictures you can see some of my "light-boxes" (Shuttle bay, rooms in saucer section)
Then Zathros' suggestion of heat-shrink tubing around the LED works really well, lastly pre-stik to patch in small holes & tricky bits. Or blu-tack. Don't know what you call it the US
Then Zathros' suggestion of heat-shrink tubing around the LED works really well, lastly pre-stik to patch in small holes & tricky bits. Or blu-tack. Don't know what you call it the US
Last edited:
So, here we go! sides attached.
Inside
Outside
And attached Collision course set with Vader!
The plastic box is to prevent the weight pulling the model over to port until the starboard nacelle is built
Inside
Outside
And attached
Collision course set with Vader! The plastic box is to prevent the weight pulling the model over to port until the starboard nacelle is built
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,216
- 228
THE DC
Highly Esteemed Member
Thank you all, She is Finished!
Struggled a bit with warp nacelle alignment, I think I compromised the design with the additional weight in the nacelles and cutting through supports for the wires
But here she is
Struggled a bit with warp nacelle alignment, I think I compromised the design with the additional weight in the nacelles and cutting through supports for the wires
But here she is
So, something happened to the shuttle bay LEDs, sadly in darkness. More Pics
Very cool, I'm going to guess there will be no smoking around this model? HAHA!
Now, an interesting excercise in scale; both my Voyager and Enterprise are listed as 1:400
Now, according to various sources Voyager is 334m long, Enterprise 304m. So, we can see the problem, these two models should be about the same size! For the record, the Voyager model is 42cm and Enterprise 72cm. Methinks (it's late, I'm not doing maths now...) that Voyager is actually 1:800....
Now, according to various sources Voyager is 334m long, Enterprise 304m. So, we can see the problem, these two models should be about the same size! For the record, the Voyager model is 42cm and Enterprise 72cm. Methinks (it's late, I'm not doing maths now...) that Voyager is actually 1:800....