Again, thanks to all for the comments and questions. LoudMusic, the tracks are connected to the rest of the layout and are operational. I couldn't find a good picture of the shop, even in a panoramic view of the area, but here are a couple that I
did locate.
The track at the lower right hand corner connects with the other track diverging to the right, which in turn leads, to the right, to the loco shop supply track and a caboose/work train storage track. That flatcar with the tall stakes is parked just outside the front doors of the carshop, whose roof (removeable) is just visible at the bottom centre of the picture.
Here's a somewhat better view of the shop, in a scene not seen when viewing the layout. The view looks east, with the camera sitting on the north Main. The track diverging to the left leads to the coaling tower, seen in the previous picture. The carshop itself was made from the walls of a Faller single stall enginehouse. I hacked some of them up in order to make brick end walls (the kit's were wooden), then used most of the remaining wall sections on the side facing the aisle. This "annex" was made from Evergreen board and batten siding, to cover the resulting gap in the wall. It houses work areas, parts storage, and a lunchroom for the workers. There's a small brick annex on the opposite side for the foreman's and clerks' offices, and some room for record storage. You can see some of the "junk", plus the derelict loco, just past the end of the building.
The lumber load was built-up from basswood strips (sides, ends, and tops only, the centre is hollow to conserve material) and was staked and braced according to a drawing of the prototype. I applied a thin wash of Floquil (orange and yellow, I think) to tone down the whiteness of the wood. Despite the fact that it's appeared on this car in several photos

ops: , it
is removeable.
Fluesheet, you've got a good eye. (on my monitor, everything looks green

) The insulators were painted with Aqueous Hobby Color #H89 Metallic Green, made by Gunze Sangyo. I was looking for something similar from either Testors or Pactra, but found this in the model car paints at the LHS.
The poles themselves probably got a couple of swipes with a razor saw, then a wash of Floquil. I have some much more accurate telegraph poles by Rix. The crossarms, sold separately, are moulded in transparent green: you simply paint the arms a suitable wood colour. I'll be using them on the upper level of the layout, when it gets built.
As for stringing wire, I
have done it on a photo diorama that I built many years ago, and found it quite effective visually, even though I used waxed thread. I bought some E-Z-Line,
which I plan to use for making some TiteLock wire fencing, but it should also be useful for wires. The diameter is .003", good enough for telegraph wire, and heavier gauges are available for power lines. (Fairly pricey, though.) While the wires can certainly get in the way, the main reason for not stringing them was that the scenery along the tracksides is not yet complete, and I also need to install that afoementioned fencing around the fields between the Maitland River and Chippawa Creek. I haven't had the need to clean track, except after making scenery, so wires could eventually be installed. MadCow has made very effective use of them.
Wayne