Sculptamold question?

Jun 18, 2004
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barboursville, wv
Hello everyone, just wondering..... Do most of you out there use Sculptamold to cover your scenery? Im useing WS Plaster cloth and then putting sculptamold on top of that, is this a good idea or do i really need to do it this way? Thanks for the help!
steve:wave:
 
I've always used Woodland Scenics plaster cloth with wall joint compound smeared on with my finger over the top of that. On top of that, I put hydrocal castings from rock molds. I've never used Sculptamold but have been thinking of trying it on this new canyon I'm modeling.
 
I used plaster cloth because my layout is in the living room and it is less messy.
I found it ok. It was helpful in getting the 'basic' shape of what I wanted.

Once that was done though, I put drywall compound on top of it.
Sculptamold is fine as well.

As for using plaster cloth first, if you don't mind the expense, then go for it to get the basic outline. Only a thin layer [one or two layers] is really needed as you are then covering it up later with more plaster [or whatever you are using].
As for techneque though, it is fine. :)
Hope that answer your question.:)
 
Sculptamold is possibly the BEST scenery product known to man, BECAUSE:

-You can mix paint with the coupound right in the mixing tray (I suggest acryllic) so you don't have to worry about the paint coming off, EVER.

-You can use it to make rock molds!

Every scenery material from sand to WS snow can adhere to wet sculptamold WITHOUT adhesive!

-It's an American product

-You can use it to smooth rough surfaces, such as WS's plaster cloth

-You can cover a large area for the minimal investment of $5.00 tax inc in some cases.

-Easily accessible at a local Art supply store

-Fun to play with!

-makes scenery as easy as filling a tray with sculptamold, and warm water (it's better on your hands)

-you can bury things in it, like junk for a junk yard, or old, abandoned track, or fence posts, signs, or trees, without adhesive

-It doesn't smell, unlike joint compound! :p

-It's water soluble (duh) and can be cleaned up very easyily with a damp cloth, even after it's managed to dry itself in your rug!

-IT looks realistic in shape, when when shaped to look like earth, because it's made from the earth!

-and finally It can be sculpted! :thumb:

(This was just a happy (unpaid) customer endorsement) :rolleyes: :)
 
A fast how I "dunit"

I selected an area to attach a hydrocal rock and cleaned a little of the foam away so that it would sit flush.
 

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I then placed the rock and with a slight twisting motion pushed the rock into place. The sculptamold that oozes out I shape with a cut off acid brush and my fingers.
 

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This cut stone retaining wall is made entirly from Scupta-Mold. I made the seperations with the tip of a nail when the SM was still a little damp.
 

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trainsteve2435 said:
Do most of you out there use Sculptamold to cover your scenery? Im useing WS Plaster cloth and then putting sculptamold on top of that.
If you use 2 layers of the plaster cloth, it should be strong enough that you don't need another layer on top of it. However, Sculptamold looks great to fill in areas around rock castings! Because it has plaster in it, it also takes stain very well, and can even look like rock when colored. :wave:
 
Did anybody see the "rosin paper scenery" technique in the 1/07 RMC? This could make all other techniques kind of obsolete...
 
Once you use sculptamold you will wounder how you ever got around with out it. It is sooooooo more versitile than normal plaste. I you can't find sculptamold because your LHS can't keep it on their shelves, try mixing the consensied bricks of paper mache with plaster. I have several techniques posted on my thread. Link on my signiture. The picture is an example of how easyly it can be sculpted
 

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