???'s Re: Blank Decal Paper
- Thread starter Drew1125
- Start date
Charlie, I got some from Micro-Mark. It works fine on my inkjet printer but had to seal the decal with Testors dull cote so water wouldnt effect it. Depends on what kind of ink your printer uses. My new Lexmark uses ink that is more water resistant than my old Canon printer ink was. Also decals only work if you place them on a light background. I found that to have light clolour (yellow) on a (maroon) background doesnt work as the decal is transparent.
I have seen some hobby stores stocking decal paper.
I have seen some hobby stores stocking decal paper.
I've been buying Bel Decals since I started doing the same. And yes, inkjet printers work. Certainly not as good as quality as an ALPS will do (or a professional printer), but not bad at all. You can check out the results at my webpage.
If you wanna play and see what you can do, Walmart carries a kit made by Testors that comes with the fixative, a small (?4X6?) sheet of white and a small sheet of clear, for under $6. Kinda expensive, but a heck of a lot less than the smallest package of paper + fixative from Walthers.
Anyone tried Wathers brand paper? Cheaper than the other brand they carry.
Anyone tried Wathers brand paper? Cheaper than the other brand they carry.
Charlie, I have used the ones from Micro Mart with some good results but mostly bad. And they are really thick but can do in a pinch. I saw somewhere a place that sold them for Ink Jet printers that you didn't have to put a sealer on them thus a thinner decal. Now I can't find it again for I was going to try them. Maybe someone else will have a link. (I hope) I had some made for me that worked great from http://www.sound.net/~gcollins/GMCRail1.html He used my logo and such, the first run is expensive as such but once he has the set up you can purchase additional sheets for 8.00 per sheet. Hope this helps some friend. Jim 
Microscale also does custom decal runs for very reasonable amounts ($135US for 250 sheets, minimum order). Obviously I'd never need 250 sheets, but it's still a pretty good deal.
I'm currently working on putting together an acceptable Coreldraw file for my TTH Wheat Kings grain hoppers (I've got four undecs all ready to go), as per my post yesterday.
I'm currently working on putting together an acceptable Coreldraw file for my TTH Wheat Kings grain hoppers (I've got four undecs all ready to go), as per my post yesterday.
If you look at the gallery he has some of mine on there 
and other very nice one's, he will work with you and give you a free quote.
and other very nice one's, he will work with you and give you a free quote.Charlie I use the micro-mark stuff without any problems. E-mail me your mailing address (I got it here somewhere but can't find it right now ) and I will send you a sheet of clear and if I still have some a sheet of white for you to try before you go out and spend a bunch of $$$$$$$$$"s, so you can see if you like it or not.
) and I will send you a sheet of clear and if I still have some a sheet of white for you to try before you go out and spend a bunch of $$$$$$$$$"s, so you can see if you like it or not.Charlie, I have used both MicroMark's and Vita-Cal's decal papers. As far as I could tell, they both worked about the same in my ink-jet (Lexmark Z-53). The decal film from both appears to be a little thick, especially after sealing it with Vita-Cal's spray fixative. But once it's on the model and snuggled in with Solva-Set, it looks fine to me. Of course, the only place I've used either product is on the "rough-cut wood" frames of my OVT&L worktrain. I haven't tried them on smooth surfaces (such as a modern boxcar).
I always wondered how you decal wood, casey, any tricks besides the solvaset? Any special treatment of the wood before decal?
Jon, most of the frames are actually white metal castings that I painted and weathered to resemble real wood. But in all cases - wood or metal - I deliberately "sloppily" painted either white or black paint in the area where the decal would be placed. First, I wanted it to appear as though all equipment was purchased as used equipment from other roads. So the original reporting marks had been hastily (and none too carefully) painted over and replaced with the OVT&L's marks. But, second, I figured the little patch of paint would help the decals adhere better to the surface. If not, it wouldn't hurt anything, anyway. It seems to have worked.
Thanks Casey!
I have a Lexmark printer also. (Z55)
I didn't even think to ask about adhesives...just assumed the Micro-Sol, & Solva-Set would work.
I've done quite a bit of decaling, so that's nothing new...just never printed my own before.
Anytime I've had trouble with "silvering" on a smooth surface, I've just gone back & punched holes in the silvered area of the film with a hobby knife, & brusherd on more Solva-Set...this, along with flat finish, & weathering, always solves the problem.