reworking the lifelike docksider

L

LR&BRR

New Member
Dec 29, 2003
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Phoenix, AZ
home.ec.rr.com
OK all this is my first try at modifing a locomotive. this is the docksider in allits little parts.
abx.jpg

first of all the NWSL gear box 139-6
.226 wide
.646 long
heigth is not a problem i have room for more weigth above the gear box.
acd.sized.jpg

the original gear location is
.336 wide
.550 long
need to open this up .050 on each end.
on the bottom of the frame there is a web .060 wide this is first to go. using a very sharp knife I cut this out carefully
i used the kife again on the other side slowly slicing offfrom the center out to the sides.
aby.sized.jpg


i was going to leave the original tabs but they were in the way.
the center ended up being opened up to .680 in length.
a close up of the new opening
aca.sized.jpg

sorry for its poor focus but you get the drift.

ok the original intent was to keep the exsisting motor for the power.
ace.sized.jpg

this made the gear box shaft to low. so to try to keep the motor i cut the front of the frame at an angle to allow the gear box to be rotated to the front of the loco. here is the results.
acb.sized.jpg

ok for now i am going to stop and rethink the motor deal.
hmm i have some more pictures of this on
http://www.railimages.com/gallery/harryrichardson
 
latest update after mulling over my options. I have desided to up grade the motor too. as of theis morning i ordered a nwsl 20275-9 motor which is 20x28 mm dble shafted 15x2.4mm. also ordered a flywheel 403-6 2.4mm shaft dia. 18mm dia. x11mm . and a universal drive line coupling a 484-6. the parts should be here next week so for now this project goes to the back shelf. my thinking is a flywheel should give me double benefits as added weight and better control of the locomotive.

i will up date this as i get the parts and show the final modifications to the unit


i have found if i do away with the motor mount and slightly bend the motor wires back into the plastic back of the motor i can get a muc nicer angle from the gear box to the motor shaft. i am going to go get some smallid tube tomorrow and some silicone to bed the motor into as a test and run the loco on my oval test track. to see how the performance difference shows up. this thing used to take off way to fast at about 40% power. at fifty it looked like it was flying low without faa approval. this will be a temporary setup i would like to use the new motor as it has a much lower starting voltage then the one i have. i will post picture of the test tomorrow
 
I've found the people at NWSL to be very helpful. I don't know if you'll have room for a flywheel in there, but 0-4-0 tank engines tend to stall on track turnouts because of the very short electrical pickup length. A flywheel could help prevent this. Another method is to have a dedicated car semi permanently attached with electrical pickup from it's trucks wired to the loco.
It's good to hear from Wilmington NC, my brother lives there and I visit often. I always check out the local railroad museum while I'm there. (ACL I believe).
Best of luck on your project, sounds like you're not afraid to break out the Dremel!
 
ok all have tried it with the original motor it runs not to bad but i only get power to the motor by pushing wires in where the brushes were hmm not sure maybe i screwed something up. but the speed range is a lot better. i think the new motor will do the trick. though i am now some what hesitant about cutting the shaft. maybe i screwed up with the dust flying off into this motor.

any suggestions?
 
I would ditch the old motor, it looks like the kind they put in toys, they're made to be cheap, not for scale speed or reliability. When I cut an motor shaft, I wrap the motor in plastic and tape it to prevent filings from getting in it. If you can find a piece of metal tubing that will slip over the motor shaft (but not too tightly) cut through both together to prevent bending the shaft. Support the motor while cutting and put the end of the shaft in a vise.Cut slowly to prevent heating and bending.
 
Originally posted by LR&BRR
ok all have tried it with the original motor it runs not to bad but i only get power to the motor by pushing wires in where the brushes were hmm not sure maybe i screwed something up. but the speed range is a lot better. i think the new motor will do the trick. though i am now some what hesitant about cutting the shaft. maybe i screwed up with the dust flying off into this motor.

any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I've cut the shafts on many NWSL and Sagami motors without damage.

Take a 3X5 index card and put a small hole in the center of it just big enough to clear the shaft. You now have a dust shield that will prevent any debris from cutting from getting into the motor. Slide the card over the shaft all the way down to the case of the motor.

I use a Dremel tool with a fiberglass cut off wheel to trim the shafts. Make light cuts to avoid heat build up on the motor shaft. Let the speed of the tool do the work...don't force it. Don't use the composite cut off wheels that come with a Dremel. They shatter easily and create quite a bit of debris from the cutting process. Even with the fiberglass wheel wear safety glasses or goggles.
 
this is an update to this project. have got the new parts from NWSL they didnt want th wrong ones back these people are good people. great customer service. over the next few days i will be updating this with new pics and procedure.
 
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