Radius Question?

C

COMBAT

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Oct 28, 2006
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Alright, I have three container cars and they are having issues with a 22" radius. Are they not all the same? What is the radius needed? I also was wondering, is there a way to convert them? Mine look like this:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/85-47201

What radius are these? :oops: :oops: :oops:
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/85-47303

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/85-47207

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/85-47303

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/223-198702

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/223-198901

http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/223-199201

Thanks for the help! :cry:
 
They all look like they hold 48' foot containers so they should be the same size.I would think 22" radius' would be enough for these,but I'm not sure.

Chris
 
Mine run fine on 22"s but IDK what-ups with them?

As far as converting them so they are connected, I don't know about that either, never tried that but might be interesting to convert them. I am sure it could be done
 
When I say convert them I ment convert them to a tighter radius. The cars I have wont go around a 23" radius with out the wheels rubbing. :( I dont get it. Yes, I am sure of the radius. These are older cars so maybe thats the issue???
 
They are weighted. I can clearly see where the wheels are rubbing the inside of the car. There is even resistance from it. Mind you I am pulling the car around when my hand to check them but I have a feeling because they are older they may need a 24" minimum. I will have to go to the LHS and see what I can find out. I hope they can be fixed or something because I really like them. :(

Perhaps I will need to get some new ones. What are you guys running and how much where they for those of you that have them??? Do you have the articulated version or the stand alone kind? Why did you pick that one over the other? THANKS! :)
 
If the wheels or the truck sideframes are bumping into the sidesills and preventing the truck from swiveling enough to get around a 22"-radius curve, you can:

1 - Cut into the inside of the side sills to give the trucks more swivel room.

2 - File some material off the part of the truck hidden behind the sidesills to give it more swivel room.

3 - Do some of both.

As little as two or three more degrees of swivel might just do the trick. :thumb:
 
I suggest you verify that the wheels (and the track) are the right size with the NMRA gauge.

I have bought cars that had the wrong size wheels that tended to derail on curves.

Replaced them with P2Ks, and all was well.

Check the coupler hose height with the Kadee gauge while you are at it.

If all these factors check out ok, then try Tom's suggestions.

Good luck!
 
Yeah the couplers are fine. The wheels are rubbing on the inside and almost the coupler boxes. I am thinking its the wheels. Do they make a smaller size wheel assembly for a tighter turning radius??

Thanks! :)
 
Going back to one of your earlyer question no they are not all the same. Some are articulated some are just the single car. I have both in n scale. My n scale cars are metal they have a little metal peice that prohibits the weels frome turning. If it is the same way on the HO you could try modifying that but onthe n scale at least they are at the width that stop the trucks from turning so tight that the two cars touch themselves
 
That doesnt apply to my HO stuff. But thanks for the suggestion. I think I am going to have to do some editing to the cars. :)
 
COMBAT said:
Yeah the couplers are fine. The wheels are rubbing on the inside and almost the coupler boxes. I am thinking its the wheels. Do they make a smaller size wheel assembly for a tighter turning radius??

Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

Your stand alone cars are "huskey stack" cars. They have big wheels because the prototype cars have 100 ton trucks instead of 70 ton trucks. It sounds like your cars are almost making the radius, with the wheels just barely rubbing. If they were missing it by a lot, they would derail instead of seeming to have the brakes on. Look carefully at where the interference is located. I don't think you will have to do much to make the trucks clear. The secret is to take off a tiny bit, and then try the car, take off a little more and try it again until it works. Don't try to take all of the material you need on the first pass, and the modifications might not even be visible when you are done.
 
With it being on the inside you should never see it. At least thats what I am hoping. I am going to go to my LHS and see what another new type looks like compared to mine. I will see if I can figure out the issue. :)
 
Models of modern equipment, especially things like 80' cars and container stacks, are not designed to run on relatively sharp curves. 22" used to be "moderate" curves when most model railroads pulled models of 40' boxcars and 60' "shorty" passenger equipment, but modern equipment is bigger and requires bigger curves, and modern models are built to more realistic specs and many aren't as tolerant of sharp curves. There isn't really much you can do to fix them other than cut away bits of the model which interfere with the trucks. Smaller wheels aren't really a fix, because they will make the car lower than it should be and you'll then have to raise the couplers to avoid unwanted uncoupling or the bottom of the coupler snagging on things in between the rails.
 
Yeah thats a good point. I am gonna see what the LHS has to offer me on Saturday. I was told they will open another car they have for me there and let me take a look at it and see what the deal is. Thanks for the pointers. :)
 
Yes, and thats what I am hoping will fix it. I got some of these today from the wife for Valentines Day.
09320000003943.gif


I have already tried them and the cars are the issue. These are 52 foot container cars and there is no issues with them. I saw how walthers did these and I am going to adapt mine to be like these as best as I can. :D

In other news can someone look at this and tell me if they see any reversing loops. I think I see one. Can someone tell me before I lay all this track and then have to redo it???:oops:

Thanks for the help!! :thumb:

1untitled.bmp
 
I don't want to insult you but two things come to mind.
One, are you SURE you are not mixing up the diameter with the radius? It is kind of like fixing a PC and finding out it is just unplugged. {I done that :S LOL}

Second thing is this. Most times radius is measured to the center line of the track but sometimes it is measured to the inside rail [as I do]. That would make it [about] a 23 inch radius or so.

However, after seeing the pictures, it appears the wheelbase is enough to justify a 24 inch radius. If you are just starting to lay down the track it is best to nail this problem down now before continuing. If not then I don't know what to say.
Like I said before. I do not say this to insult you. Just to eliminate what sometimes is the obvious.

Ihope that helps you out. :)
 
I went to the LHS and the issue was the cars. I even got some new 53' well cars and they work perfect. I am going to have to do a little mod to the cars and they too will work great. No worries on the insults. LOL! Sometimes the answer is staring you in the face. I also appreciate your concern with not insulting me, thats kind of you! Thanks for the input, cant wait to get some more tack down so I can run a little freight! :)
 
Just remember, a 53' well car isn't 53' long, but more like 72'. Cars with a low-hanging body tend to not do well on sharp curves. I remember some reviews in MR which commented on the issue of wheels rubbing on the body, for both well cars and 25' ore jennies (!). However, both these types of car should work on 22".
 
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