Printing on Wood with an Inkjet Printer

  • Thread starter Thread starter Fred_M
  • Start date Start date
What's nice about the wood method is if you screw it up you can sand it off and start over. The sign above was printed over a sanded off test sign. :) Sanding should also work on styrene screwups. Fred
 
inkjet signs

dash10 said:
What's nice about the wood method is if you screw it up you can sand it off and start over. The sign above was printed over a sanded off test sign. :) Sanding should also work on styrene screwups. Fred
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How about lightly sanding it and printing ANOTHER (different) one! :thumb:
 
CalFlash said:
How about lightly sanding it and printing ANOTHER (different) one! :thumb:
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LOL, or save time and print it very pale the first time. Fred
 
jmarksbery said:
:thumb: :wave: Hi Fred. Great idea and it looks great but I have one question, I tried it on a sheet of plain styrene OK, but the ink never seemed to dry. I used the photo setting for the printer which is the best. Did I use the wrong setting or did I not give the thing enough time to dry? It looked great though!!! If it would work for me I don't think I would ever paint another scratch build. Hehehe :eek: :eek: Jim
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Jim, the photo setting puts the maximum amount of ink, so it probably was a factor in the drying - or lack thereof! :D

I've printed on clear acetate (for window signs) where dullcoat or sanding is not an option, and although it took 2 days it did eventually dry.

Val
 
spitfire said:
Jim, the photo setting puts the maximum amount of ink, so it probably was a factor in the drying - or lack thereof! :D

I've printed on clear acetate (for window signs) where dullcoat or sanding is not an option, and although it took 2 days it did eventually dry.

Val
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Hi VAl, just an idea, but I have printed in the past on inkjet overhead projector film and it dried right away and was clear. I also think its acetate. One side has some special coating because if you put it through reversed it runs and blurrs. Fred
 
:wave: Yeah I have done that also, I didn't give a second thought about the dull side of the clear. But hey, I printed a whole side of a building I was scratching and it was beautiful with signs and all. Hell if it had dried I was going to do the whole structure. Hehe haw, oh well, just as good it didn't do right for me I can't afford the ink right now. :oops: :oops: Later guys, Jim
 
dash10 said:
Hi VAl, just an idea, but I have printed in the past on inkjet overhead projector film and it dried right away and was clear. I also think its acetate. One side has some special coating because if you put it through reversed it runs and blurrs. Fred
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I had to use that when I had a presentation I had to give in a class project in college. They make one type for laser printers and one for inkjet. Like Fred said, make sure you use the right side up! :rolleyes:

Michael
 
Jim, speaking of printing the whole side of a building, I saw a model of a barn online that was done exactly that way. It's a cardboard structure, and all sides and roof are printed, rather than dimensional. I don't know how it would look in person, but the photo of it looks great. And the best part is, if you want to try it, he has the images posted for download.

After much searching I have finally found the link to the site

Val
 
This is one of the coolest ideas i've seen in some time...

i can't wait to get my sheet of 1/64" plywood and try it. Of course there will be he** to pay if my wife is picking splinters out of her color printer next week, but that's the price you pay when your a model railroader, right! Thanks for the great idea...
 
I'm wondering if this is the answer my cedar shake project. I've been thinking of having a sheet of N Scale shakes etched with a laser but the results of printing them on wood might be similar and certainly a whole lot cheaper. Have to get some thin wood next order.

Wayne
 
Thanks Fred for the "how" to" using the inkjet. Wonderfullidea that i will try in the future.

Thanks again for sharing :thumb: :thumb: :wave:
 
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