PBY Catalina Consolidatrd Vultee Flying Boat
- Thread starter MAC99
- Start date
zathros you helped me with wing construction, which worked out very well.
I am hopping I can get the right help again. you maybe renumber when the tail was glued on all wrong then it turned out the whole empanasche(tail feathers) was glued wrong I had to remove it all
i have tried to turn the cone in the tail 3 times, it needs to be rolled very small on one end.
I am not getting them even close to looking like it belongs on a Pby hope some one help out,
MAC
I am hopping I can get the right help again. you maybe renumber when the tail was glued on all wrong then it turned out the whole empanasche(tail feathers) was glued wrong I had to remove it all
i have tried to turn the cone in the tail 3 times, it needs to be rolled very small on one end.
I am not getting them even close to looking like it belongs on a Pby hope some one help out,
MAC
to start with I removed the whole tail cone and spent a lot of time with it I did finely come up wit a mildly acceptably cone 
- Apr 5, 2013
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I would advise reprinting that parts, round it's shape with a dowel, along the front to back axis, then do a dry fit, if not happy, then cut into manageable pieces along the panel lines. That way you can easily color any white edge black and the plane will look better for the effort.
You won't have those creases, which actually appear on real aircraft that are involved in propeller strikes, or other situations which torques the whole empennage, and cause the aluminum skin to buckle and crease. I would reprint those parts, round the reprinted flat parts with a dowel, along the front to back axis, then do a dry fit, if not happy, then cut into manageable pieces along the panel lines. That way you can easily color any white edge black and the plane will look better for the effort. Rounding pieces on any model that has a curved surface with a dowel saves a lot of time, and also shows where you may come up on papers limitation, which means the part has to be cut there, to complete fairing (smoothing) the craft. I hope that helps.
You won't have those creases, which actually appear on real aircraft that are involved in propeller strikes, or other situations which torques the whole empennage, and cause the aluminum skin to buckle and crease. I would reprint those parts, round the reprinted flat parts with a dowel, along the front to back axis, then do a dry fit, if not happy, then cut into manageable pieces along the panel lines. That way you can easily color any white edge black and the plane will look better for the effort. Rounding pieces on any model that has a curved surface with a dowel saves a lot of time, and also shows where you may come up on papers limitation, which means the part has to be cut there, to complete fairing (smoothing) the craft. I hope that helps.
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and all this brings me to I needed to DISPOSE of the first fuse, AND the second one is going much better the tail feather looks strait I now understand why some people list more than one current build
this time
this time
I did use rods of different sizes to work with I think on this cone to keep it wrinkle free lighter paper would be needed
OK that will be my attack, those creases have been a problem from day one. The cone is so small at one end and a 2" eclipse at the other
- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
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See if you can find a pencil sized shaft with hard ball end, you can take the end of the paper, work it with the ball end, and break the paper matrix without tearing it, use a hard, but soft surface, not too soft, not too hard. If you are good with your hands, your palm, and a rounded pencil eraser, using your palm fior the other end, you can feel the paper take shape. It becomes easier to form, and some glue on the inside will stiffen it back up. If your printer uses pigment Ink, you can wet the paper, better from the backside, and the ink will not run.
OK! I like your idea Zathros. I used a tool I have before with a small ball on it the 1/16-3/32 not only to small but I used a hard surface. I think 1/4" ball and I have a pad fore pounce wheels some give but firm I did not put the two together until your mention of the two. maybe a drum stick?
Thank you for the thumbs up Cafe. What do you think post #45 2nd pic the all with brown handle?
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- Apr 5, 2013
- 13,876
- 10,216
- 228
Drumsticks are a great tool. I would be using either 67 lb. or 110 lb. at the most, and 67 pound cardstock for the tight stuff. Both roll well, and do not crease. Use much glue on the bulkheads, attach wide paper strips to them. This will prevent the "skeleton effect, and allow you to use more glue on a wider area the strips provide to attach the skins.
I have been using the cannon photo matte I have heard people use 67 lb. and the 110 lb give me a brand name I have just build anew frame and fuselage version 4.0 the cone rolled perfect I found a better way apply the skin panels I put all three parts to gather Then I started getting crazing it started slow and know covers much of the plane skins , On this version 4.0 I did make several major leaps in the thinking in paper. Skill, lepta up I could feel it. I have some presentation paper but with less lbs maybe a new paper would help me out. I do I do need help well I have received much help with this problem and I do appeaser it all.
MAC
MAC