One of the good things about paper modeling is that if a project gets squashed, or screwed up you only spent about $2 or $3 dollars on the paper, ink and glue and its very easy to print and start again. I would rather have that happen to a paper model then a plastic model that I paid $30 + getting destroyed. (which unfortunately happens when you have had children)..
One of the good things about paper modeling
- Thread starter Jadriancz
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You have a valid point. I have made many mistakes, had many models destroyed, and gave many more away!
I got into paper model building (when I was a child) because I my mother could not afford all the cool toys that the other kids have. So I decided to teach myself how to scratch build models. In 2009, I discovered the Thunder Fighter on
http://www.paperaviation.com/, professionanl paper model kits, as well as this wonderful site. I have not stopped building since.
I got into paper model building (when I was a child) because I my mother could not afford all the cool toys that the other kids have. So I decided to teach myself how to scratch build models. In 2009, I discovered the Thunder Fighter on
http://www.paperaviation.com/, professionanl paper model kits, as well as this wonderful site. I have not stopped building since.
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I will never forget building a Kaman Helicopter, a Tamiya, I believe, or an Airfix, it was an expensive model. I used liquid glue on the huge glass that those Kaman twin interweaving blades those helos had, and the glue vapors caused the glass to completely haze. I was so pissed off. I through the model against the wall. It was like throwing $40 bucks away! I am not too proud to say that is not the only time that happened. I build a beautiful Bonneville, in Gold, just like the model below. I spent sp much time detailing the interior, the bottom, it must have been a Jo-Han, because it had an engine, steering wheels, massive detailing, once you got all the flashing off. The hobby shop sold me the pain, but it was the wrong kind, it melted the body, boy was I pissed, see that thing melt within minutes after spraying paint on it.
You can see how important the from glass is on a Husky! :
You can see how important the from glass is on a Husky! :
I had just built this model and within a few weeks my very young (3 yr old) daughter at the time decided to play with it.. Took 10 yrs for me to get another one and It is still in its packaging in the garage. That is another reason I hadn't built any models since the late 80's..
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I know the feeling. I have lost ALL of my old plastic models that I built years ago. Most of them are very difficult (and in som.e cases impossible to find anymore).
Another good reason to build paper models (ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE INTO SCI-FI) is that there are more Sci-Fi models in paper than all other mediums combined. I have models that are in paper that were NEVER released in any other medium (like the "Happy Birthday Buck" Thunder Fighter).
The thing is with paper modelling is that the builder is also the manufacturer.
Put simply, plastic models involve gluing pre-formed parts together. Whereas paper modellers have to form the parts first by folding and gluing, and THEN glue the resulting parts together.
So, starting with a 'blank canvas' of a sheet of paper, the resulting model creation possibilities are only limited by your imagination. And not limited by pre-formed parts, as in plastic models.
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Heck, looking at what you did, you can add "fabrication" to the list. I have a stack of plastic models. I just sold a 1/8th scale Jaguar I picked up 20 odd years ago to a guy for $275 dollars. I have another one 90% built. Incredible detail, but I've lost interest. I have a "Puma" plastic model that is huge. It even has 8 guys that came with it. I just can't bring myself to build it. Forget about the stack of plastic car models. Maybe when I get even more sedentary. 
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Plastic models have never appealed to me. I like the design puzzle of converting flat to dimensional, and usually work with fabric or paper. If I work with fabric (clothing design) I start with paper and masking tape. I use patterns as a starting place unless I want to know how something goes together such as with historical clothing. Mostly I like the beauty of turning a stack of flat sheets into a complex shape. I do like that paper is cheap enough that it doesn't matter if I make a mistake. I also like that paper is biodegradable, recyclable, and won't created hazards for wildlife. I'm not sure I'm right about this, but it seems to me that laminated paper is stronger than plastic because it's not as brittle. I've done repairs on plastic using paper and hot melt glue. I fixed both my printer and a divider in my freezer using the technique. Maybe I'll post a picture of the freezer repair.
In my opinion, paper can make much more finer and crisp looking details (just my feeling, what do you think?)
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I agree about laminating. If I make a big shipp model, I use 1 mm frame stock for the bulkheads, but the right glue and paper gives you a composite structure which is very strong, and can be very thin.
When you spoke about sewing, I thought I would tell you what I found at the Transfer Station 3 weeks ago. I picked up a sewing machine that someone threw away. I saw this weathered, but perfect condition wooden box, kind of rectangular, standing up, it caught my eye, low and behold, there was a ZIGZAG Model # 3346 Brand New sewing machine, with all the accessories, and I mean everything. I took it home, and realized that the bobbin was out in wrong, and the needle was hitting it. It looks like this person tried it once, and just put it away. I quickly fixed that, this machine works perfectly, it's built like a tank, not like the cheap plastic ones today, this one is all metal, and I have all the feet for it, everything, even the original book! I figure it is from the late 50's, though the 1960's, judging by the Aquamarine color. I researched it, and it was sold under many names, made in Japan, back when they were trying real hard! It has the "ZIGZAG" feature, and you can do some neat stuff with it. That was a big deal when these came out, I remember when i was a kid, seeing these advertised. (Yes, I'm that old) This thing is built like a tank. I just made a sofa, I am trying to figure out the shape of the back (wife keeps changing her mind!) and was looking to buy a machine so I could make the covers!! My mother was a Professional Seamstress, and she taught me how to sew when I was very young. She used to make wedding dresses, and Leather Jackets, Coats for "Read's" department store. We had a little home shop, and would bang out 300 or so of these coats a season. I am amazed what people throw away. It would have gone to the metal scrap bin, and there's a Goodwill Station right next door, they could have donated it too. Crazy!
The financial and fabricative advantages of paper modeling makes if my first choice when considering a subject. I would consider myself a multi-medium miniaturist, though. Paper/card is great for subjects with few complex curves like architecture and rockets, but I prefer plastic or resin for sculptural figures and most automobiles, for instance. Clever design can create some very fascinating auto models out of paper, but plastic has a strong edge in that area.
For some subjects paper practically seems preferable to plastic, though. I think paper is an ideal medium for the Currell airship models. Sailing ships can look great in paper. Most spacecraft can be great. I can't imagine putting the kind of detail into a plastic model that UHU02 did with his Lunar Module.
The price of hard model kits has gotten a bit prohibitive these days, but between my backlog of to-builds and snail-like building speed, that's not much of problem for me.
For some subjects paper practically seems preferable to plastic, though. I think paper is an ideal medium for the Currell airship models. Sailing ships can look great in paper. Most spacecraft can be great. I can't imagine putting the kind of detail into a plastic model that UHU02 did with his Lunar Module.
The price of hard model kits has gotten a bit prohibitive these days, but between my backlog of to-builds and snail-like building speed, that's not much of problem for me.
I started in plastic...waaaaaay back when it was only Monogram or Revel and the models were a $1.25+- or so each spent days detailing engines, learning candy apple, and pin stripping and spider webbing... cashed in coke bottles at 4 cents each that I picked up on weekends till I had enough for the next model! I will more than likely ( might get lucky and find some at an auction) ...never buy a plastic kit or a resin kit EVER! I can card build for months on the cost of one plastic or resin purchase! Like others have said, the satisfaction of getting ( or trying in my case ) to get the detail from flat to 3d is worth more than all the plastic out there...but I will confess...I do have a 1/8th scale Ford Cobra still in the box, it was started buy someone else, but they didn't mess things up that can't be fixed, and every thing is still there! So that may be a build thread one of these days....
Will do!!...BTW re-reading my post I noticed it looked wrong! 1/8th?...no it is 1/16th scale, I would have to remove a door to build a 1/8 Shelby Cobra 427...Even at 1/16th it will take up some space! But the detail that can be applied to the engine will be FUN!!Dude, please, post some pics of that Cobra!! 1/8th scale, I need to see that!!
