Ok, here it is... it's an IHC kit in N scale. I still need to add a post from the top of the entry to the roof, but the roof is not attached yet, so that piece hasn't been attached. Also, I know I have to touch up the paint on the steps (a little bit got nicked, don't know how) and I think I went overboard weathering that left wall. Overall I'm not super pleased with my results. I was wondering what you guys think, and more importantly, what can I do to improve it?
My First Styrene Kit...
- Thread starter Arlaghan
- Start date
Overall I think it's a pretty nice structure but a little drybrushing I think would bring out some of the highlights. Your weathering doesn't show up that strong on the picture but it seems to go horizontal as opposed to letting it run down like in nature, perhaps a little backsplash on the very bottom. IMHO If your looking for something to make yours stand out from others maybe some gutters and leaders?
Just a suggestion - if you are going to weather the siding of the house, also weather the window and door trim. I'm just going by the picture, but you wouldn't normally see bright white trim if the house is weathered. Just my thoughts.
I would say not bad for a first try.
A few comments, however, the white does have to be toned down some. If the walls are weathered so should the trim and windows. As far as the left wall goes don’t worry buildings tend to weather differently on each side depending on exposure to sun, rain, snow, wind direction, the way the lawn is mowed, etc. I have seen siding particularly siding that is exposed to sun and wind weather in a more horizontal pattern then dripping down. Also I have seen moss grow along a building in a similar pattern. If you look hard enough you can usually find something in the real world that comes close. As far as the chip in the steps, treat like a chip in the concrete and don’t worry if the color is different, it is a patch.
One thing I have learned is you can save things by just thinking a little different about them. The world is not perfect so why should our models of real world things be perfect.
A few comments, however, the white does have to be toned down some. If the walls are weathered so should the trim and windows. As far as the left wall goes don’t worry buildings tend to weather differently on each side depending on exposure to sun, rain, snow, wind direction, the way the lawn is mowed, etc. I have seen siding particularly siding that is exposed to sun and wind weather in a more horizontal pattern then dripping down. Also I have seen moss grow along a building in a similar pattern. If you look hard enough you can usually find something in the real world that comes close. As far as the chip in the steps, treat like a chip in the concrete and don’t worry if the color is different, it is a patch.
One thing I have learned is you can save things by just thinking a little different about them. The world is not perfect so why should our models of real world things be perfect.
Arl
like Pat said try to do a little indivdual touches one thing i do is put up shades or curtians in windows and for city buildings a flower box .also in white trim i mix a little yellow to tone it down.
like Pat said try to do a little indivdual touches one thing i do is put up shades or curtians in windows and for city buildings a flower box .also in white trim i mix a little yellow to tone it down.
Looking Good!
Nicely done! Sure, a little weathering helps, but here is something to keep in mind, especially if you plan to build a few more. Buildings, like locos and rolling stock, should not be uniformly weathered. Some should be cleaner, some dirtier.
You could even put a little painter's van out front, with LPP guys on ladders...painting the trim.
Nicely done! Sure, a little weathering helps, but here is something to keep in mind, especially if you plan to build a few more. Buildings, like locos and rolling stock, should not be uniformly weathered. Some should be cleaner, some dirtier.
You could even put a little painter's van out front, with LPP guys on ladders...painting the trim.
All very excellent ideas! I think I will do them I was also thinking about adding an interior (somewhat crude, as it's hard to see in there) to divide the house into "rooms" so I can add lighting to various parts of the house (as opposed to a single light to light up the entire interior). This is why I haven't attached the roof yet. I plan to have the house come off at the base, once the roof is attached permanently, so that I can access the bulbs and wiring from the bottom.
I was also thinking about adding an interior (somewhat crude, as it's hard to see in there) to divide the house into "rooms" so I can add lighting to various parts of the house (as opposed to a single light to light up the entire interior). This is why I haven't attached the roof yet. I plan to have the house come off at the base, once the roof is attached permanently, so that I can access the bulbs and wiring from the bottom.
Even though you aren't happy with the weathering, your model kit actually turned out pretty good. The first kit I ever did turned out horrible. I didn't throw it out, but did use it as an abandonned building on my first layout. It was a real learning experience for me. Let's just say that when I was a young girl growing up in the late 50's and early 60's, putting together a model anything would have really been discouraged.
Hi Arlaghan!
The kit looks good!
I think it pretty much looks exactly like it's supposed to.
I might suggest "dirtying it down" a little with a thin black wash, & maybe lightly dry-brushing some brown &/or gray on the white areas to tone them down a little.
Remember, once you've gotten the hang of putting these together, don't be afraid to try changing things around...adding things, etc...
The kit looks good!
I think it pretty much looks exactly like it's supposed to.
I might suggest "dirtying it down" a little with a thin black wash, & maybe lightly dry-brushing some brown &/or gray on the white areas to tone them down a little.
Remember, once you've gotten the hang of putting these together, don't be afraid to try changing things around...adding things, etc...
Re: Looking Good!
Looks great Arl!
Here's what I would do to the trim:
Identify what areas will have fresh paint and either mask them off or plan to paint over later.
Paint some "old paint" areas differing shades of tan and/or dark grey and/or near black, going in that order from dryer areas to areas that would get a lot of water, like under leaky or missing gutters.
Use a toothpick to apply vasoline in little patches (this is where the paint chips will be, so you can make them whatever size you want the chips to be).
Then paint over all the "old paint" areas with white.
Then give it all a dark wash (in a spray bottle full of water, ad a few mL's of black and/or brown latex paint, cheap stuff from the craft store is OK, and finally a few drops of dishsoap, which is very important as it breaks the surface tension, and allows easy cleanup. It also keeps you hands soft if you use palomolive).
After it dries, remove the masking or repaint the "fresh paint", then wipe off the vasoline from the "old paint", exposing the tan/brown/black underneath.
Clean the windows with cotton swabs and water, if desired, leaving deposits around the glazing and leaving the upper windows uncleaned.
Once you like it, lock it in with a coat of Testors dullcoat. This may mute some of the weathering, so don't worry if some looks a little excessive before dullcoating. If you want gloss trim, you should remove masking or repaint "new paint" after this step, but I think flat would be more realistic.
The result should be some fresh, bright white where the painters have worked, some dull, dirty white with paint peeled off where they have not. You could do a lot of vasoline where a guy is chipping off the paint before the painters.
Just remember, you don't want to give hte LPBs too nice of a house to live in!
Looks great Arl!
Originally posted by Lighthorseman
You could even put a little painter's van out front, with LPP guys on ladders...painting the trim.
Here's what I would do to the trim:
Identify what areas will have fresh paint and either mask them off or plan to paint over later.
Paint some "old paint" areas differing shades of tan and/or dark grey and/or near black, going in that order from dryer areas to areas that would get a lot of water, like under leaky or missing gutters.
Use a toothpick to apply vasoline in little patches (this is where the paint chips will be, so you can make them whatever size you want the chips to be).
Then paint over all the "old paint" areas with white.
Then give it all a dark wash (in a spray bottle full of water, ad a few mL's of black and/or brown latex paint, cheap stuff from the craft store is OK, and finally a few drops of dishsoap, which is very important as it breaks the surface tension, and allows easy cleanup. It also keeps you hands soft if you use palomolive).
After it dries, remove the masking or repaint the "fresh paint", then wipe off the vasoline from the "old paint", exposing the tan/brown/black underneath.
Clean the windows with cotton swabs and water, if desired, leaving deposits around the glazing and leaving the upper windows uncleaned.
Once you like it, lock it in with a coat of Testors dullcoat. This may mute some of the weathering, so don't worry if some looks a little excessive before dullcoating. If you want gloss trim, you should remove masking or repaint "new paint" after this step, but I think flat would be more realistic.
The result should be some fresh, bright white where the painters have worked, some dull, dirty white with paint peeled off where they have not. You could do a lot of vasoline where a guy is chipping off the paint before the painters.
Just remember, you don't want to give hte LPBs too nice of a house to live in!
Possible weathering technique
Okay, I'm just spouting off here, but I'm going to try this myself:
Mix up a lot of thin "dirty wash" of whatever color would be appropriate in your mind for this home.
Dunk the building in the wash, then pull it out.
Let it sit for a minute or so, then blow it off from the "prevailing wind" + 70 degree vertical angle, using a moderate amount of air pressure.
This will take care of all the areas that "darken", then just do a lighter drybrush for the roof, which is the only area where the weathering will lighten it. (of course, you'll also have dirty windows, if they're already glued in, so you may want to take a different approach.)
Like I said, I'm going to try it on Otto's. Once I put the chimney on....
Okay, I'm just spouting off here, but I'm going to try this myself:
Mix up a lot of thin "dirty wash" of whatever color would be appropriate in your mind for this home.
Dunk the building in the wash, then pull it out.
Let it sit for a minute or so, then blow it off from the "prevailing wind" + 70 degree vertical angle, using a moderate amount of air pressure.
This will take care of all the areas that "darken", then just do a lighter drybrush for the roof, which is the only area where the weathering will lighten it. (of course, you'll also have dirty windows, if they're already glued in, so you may want to take a different approach.)
Like I said, I'm going to try it on Otto's. Once I put the chimney on....