Models By Marek Bristol F2B Fighter

Man, this is getting good!

Gil, your coaming (or combing?) is magnificent. I love the stitched look and
the surface. I've never seen leather as smooth as that insulation I put on and yours at a normal distance would probably look alot more realistic. Eric,
I followed your thread as you know at the Aerodrome and like I said, you were my inspiration to get back into modeling again. I watched you model away in that thread and was blown away. Believe me, watching your rigging methods were inspiration in itself. The polyester thread I used on the Pfalz was actually quite 'fuzzless'. Waxing that line is a great idea and might just be perfect in a silver or grey color. Gil, no thanks needed! I'm lovin' this like no tomorrow!

Here's a pic of the Pfalz. The thread looks fuzzy from .jpg loss but it was done with simple tweezers and cyanoacrilate. It's not really fuzzy :)

pfalz3hp2.jpg
 
Man, this is getting good!

Gil, your coaming (or combing?) is magnificent. I love the stitched look and
the surface. I've never seen leather as smooth as that insulation I put on and yours at a normal distance would probably look alot more realistic. Eric,
I followed your thread as you know at the Aerodrome and like I said, you were my inspiration to get back into modeling again. I watched you model away in that thread and was blown away. Believe me, watching your rigging methods were inspiration in itself. The polyester thread I used on the Pfalz was actually quite 'fuzzless'. Waxing that line is a great idea and might just be perfect in a silver or grey color. Gil, no thanks needed! I'm lovin' this like no tomorrow!

Here's a pic of the Pfalz. The thread looks fuzzy from .jpg loss but it was done with simple tweezers and cyanoacrilate. It's not really fuzzy :)

pfalz3hp2.jpg
 
Cockpit combing: I have a pretty good supply of hollow insulation that was used to cover bare wires in breadboard electronics -- it's called "spaghetti." It comes in various sizes and can easily be split down the middle with a #11 blade or scalpel, working from the inside. Another alternative would be to get a piece of insulated wire (#22 would be about right), pull out the wire, and split the insulation from the inside out with a very sharp blade. Bell wire with black or brown insulation is a good choice.
 
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