Bowdenja said:
Alright Gil or Eric............ how about coming up with a solution for this modeling dilemma...........
Yeah, right.
To be honest, I HATE rigging.
I've been using monofilament (invisible thread), colored black with a marker and attached in one of the following ways:
1) A line exiting a wing or fuselage (rudder and elevator control lines, for example) can be knotted at one end. Push the knot through a hole in the fuse, apply a drop of white glue and then pull the line back
carefully until the knot is just at the backside of the card. White glue won't hold monofilament, but it will harden around it and trap the knot.
2) At control horns, a very little bit of CA. Might not grab the first time around - when this happens cuss quietly and then try again with another very little bit. I also HATE using CA on card models, but for stuff like this there really isn't a choice.
3) At strut bases (flying and landing wires, for example) the monofilament can be tied in a knot around the strut. A drop of white glue will hold the knot from untying. The only real hard part about this is getting the stuff tight before tying the knot . . . .
4) Wing bracing wires on monoplanes should NOT be run as continuous lengths going through the wing - tension will pull anhedral into the wing and you'll always have a curve in the line where it passes through. Better to poke two small holes through the wing at the attachment point (chordwise) and tie a small piece of mono through them in a loose knot. The upper and lower bracing wires can then be passed through this loop on either side of the wing and the knot pulled tight and glued. Once the glue holding this knot dries, you can tug the lines tight and glue them again. I explain all this a lot better in the MoS/Pfalz thread.
For short runs, straightened wire is way easier to deal with.
Back before I got all particular about such things, I used ordinary sewing thread and it's a joy to work with compared to monofilament. The problem, of course, is all that fuzz. I recently found some #100 pure filament silk thread, however, and am anxious to give it a shot. It's thin enough to use for 1/48th and fuzz-free. I'm in the middle of a project that I already started to rig with mono, but will try the silk on my next one.
The Biff is coming along nicely, Ron.