Skinning the Hull Frame
First, I cut out, formed, and glued the lower skin (tub) part 9. The frame drops into it beautifully! The frame length (after the earlier 1/16" alteration) was perfect. The width was a tiny bit narrow, but I fixed that by laminating a couple of layers of cardstock to each side of the frame before permanently gluing it into the tub.
After studying the parts, I decided to skin the tank in an order different from that recommended by the instructions. First I glued on the mud guard tops (these should have been affixed last per the instructions). Then after scoring and folding, I dry fitted the upper front skin, part 13. As expected, this part had to be pared down by the same 1/16" that I shortened the frame by. After studying the part for a bit, I took the 1/16th inch off of the rear of the part rather than from the front. It fit against the mudguards better this way. Of course, this moved the outline for the hatch, part 33, closer to the driver's viewing port than indicated on the model, but from photos of the real tank, this hatch seemed to be a little bit too far forward on the model anyway. I also thought a tab was called for along the hypotenuse of the triangular section of this part, so I modified it accordingly.
Next I scored and folded the upper hull skin, part 11. I spent some time dry fitting this part and I found that as I folded the front of it to wrap around the frame, a bulge would form at the score line between the two viewing ports. I sliced the section off that has an outline for part 48, hoping to fit it in properly later. Even as a separate piece it just wasn't the right shape, and wouldn't lay right. I had to cut a card stock replacement, which is obvious in the photo since it is white. Hopefully I'll be able to get pretty close to the color of the rest of the skin with paint.
The engine cover, part 12, was next. It sits over a void in the frame, and since it'll be unsupported after being glued in place, I decided to detail it ahead of time with parts 42, 46, and 48. I also thought that a tab was called for in the inside corner to strengthen the attachment point of the two sides, so I modified the part. After dry fitting and trimming a bit here and there, I glued the completed part 12 to the upper skin part 11. Finally, the complete upper skin unit was glued over the top of the frame. To complete the skin-ning process I detailed with the various hatches, vents, tools, stowage, etc.
In the "woulda, coulda, shoulda" department, there are two issues: I 'd have been better off removing the tabs from the front and rear of part 9. These tabs lay against the frame, and really serve no purpose since the entire upper surface of the frame is the gluing surface for parts 11 and 13. Since I left them in place, when I glued the upper skin to the frame, there is a visible and unsightly "lift" at the edges where the skin runs up and over the tabs. I won't make that mistake again. Also, I would have used a slower drying glue to attach the skin - maybe yellow carpenter's glue. There is a section at the rear of the tank where the glue apparently dried too quickly to adhere the skin to the frame properly. As a result there is "bubble" of skin under the muffler that is not tighly glued down. It's evident if the light hits it the right way. I suppose it could be in a worse place, but it shouldn't be there at all.
Next installment: Framing and skinning the turret
Click link to see updated pictures in the build gallery:
http://www.cardmodels.net/gallery/b...id=&orderby=title&direction=ASC&cutoffdate=-1
First, I cut out, formed, and glued the lower skin (tub) part 9. The frame drops into it beautifully! The frame length (after the earlier 1/16" alteration) was perfect. The width was a tiny bit narrow, but I fixed that by laminating a couple of layers of cardstock to each side of the frame before permanently gluing it into the tub.
After studying the parts, I decided to skin the tank in an order different from that recommended by the instructions. First I glued on the mud guard tops (these should have been affixed last per the instructions). Then after scoring and folding, I dry fitted the upper front skin, part 13. As expected, this part had to be pared down by the same 1/16" that I shortened the frame by. After studying the part for a bit, I took the 1/16th inch off of the rear of the part rather than from the front. It fit against the mudguards better this way. Of course, this moved the outline for the hatch, part 33, closer to the driver's viewing port than indicated on the model, but from photos of the real tank, this hatch seemed to be a little bit too far forward on the model anyway. I also thought a tab was called for along the hypotenuse of the triangular section of this part, so I modified it accordingly.
Next I scored and folded the upper hull skin, part 11. I spent some time dry fitting this part and I found that as I folded the front of it to wrap around the frame, a bulge would form at the score line between the two viewing ports. I sliced the section off that has an outline for part 48, hoping to fit it in properly later. Even as a separate piece it just wasn't the right shape, and wouldn't lay right. I had to cut a card stock replacement, which is obvious in the photo since it is white. Hopefully I'll be able to get pretty close to the color of the rest of the skin with paint.
The engine cover, part 12, was next. It sits over a void in the frame, and since it'll be unsupported after being glued in place, I decided to detail it ahead of time with parts 42, 46, and 48. I also thought that a tab was called for in the inside corner to strengthen the attachment point of the two sides, so I modified the part. After dry fitting and trimming a bit here and there, I glued the completed part 12 to the upper skin part 11. Finally, the complete upper skin unit was glued over the top of the frame. To complete the skin-ning process I detailed with the various hatches, vents, tools, stowage, etc.
In the "woulda, coulda, shoulda" department, there are two issues: I 'd have been better off removing the tabs from the front and rear of part 9. These tabs lay against the frame, and really serve no purpose since the entire upper surface of the frame is the gluing surface for parts 11 and 13. Since I left them in place, when I glued the upper skin to the frame, there is a visible and unsightly "lift" at the edges where the skin runs up and over the tabs. I won't make that mistake again. Also, I would have used a slower drying glue to attach the skin - maybe yellow carpenter's glue. There is a section at the rear of the tank where the glue apparently dried too quickly to adhere the skin to the frame properly. As a result there is "bubble" of skin under the muffler that is not tighly glued down. It's evident if the light hits it the right way. I suppose it could be in a worse place, but it shouldn't be there at all.
Next installment: Framing and skinning the turret
Click link to see updated pictures in the build gallery:
http://www.cardmodels.net/gallery/b...id=&orderby=title&direction=ASC&cutoffdate=-1