Great work!!!!
I love the marvin... I have until a model of resin of him..... his work this being very good!!!.....
I love the marvin... I have until a model of resin of him..... his work this being very good!!!.....
Marvin Beta Build
- Thread starter B-Manic
- Start date
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paulhbell
Lookin Good
Lookin Good - I hope to post the torso later today. It looks like you are making good progress. I see you are leaving the glue tabs on, I am cutting most of then off.
paulhbell said:
Lookin Good - I hope to post the torso later today. It looks like you are making good progress. I see you are leaving the glue tabs on, I am cutting most of then off.
paulhbell said:
Looking good Paul
I like the progress pics too - quite a good visual illustration so far.
Paulhbell!
Your fit on the sneaker looks good, way better than mine. Good Job. I completed the gloves assembly last night (or the wee hours of the morning depending how you look at it). No pics as of yet. They seemed a bit intimidating at first, but went together rather well except for a few errors on my part (too much glue). Its great too see a collabritive effort on the building of this model.
Sneaker
Your fit on the sneaker looks good, way better than mine. Good Job. I completed the gloves assembly last night (or the wee hours of the morning depending how you look at it). No pics as of yet. They seemed a bit intimidating at first, but went together rather well except for a few errors on my part (too much glue). Its great too see a collabritive effort on the building of this model.
Sneaker
A question to you beta builders concerning the shoe build. As B-Manic mentioned, are most of you leaving the designed glue tabs on when building the shoes or have you removed them and replaced them with "invisible" tabs? I think going the invisible route would achieve a smoother surface (with a bit of curving at the edges to flow piece to piece). Of course, I don't have the model in front of me, thus no way of knowing if this technique is even possible.
The model, even in what is termed as a beta build, looks impressive and I can't wait until Bazooka releases it to the public.
The model, even in what is termed as a beta build, looks impressive and I can't wait until Bazooka releases it to the public.
Pez Anyone ?
Finished the torso. The arms are just dry fit to permit positioning later. I had some trouble rolling the first arm tube(s). The second one I partially cut out, rolled then completed cutting it out. This worked very well.
When I installed the skirt/kilt the angle was a little to acute. This will affect the posture of Marvin in this build but IMO not effect the overall appearance of the completed model.
Finished the torso. The arms are just dry fit to permit positioning later. I had some trouble rolling the first arm tube(s). The second one I partially cut out, rolled then completed cutting it out. This worked very well.
When I installed the skirt/kilt the angle was a little to acute. This will affect the posture of Marvin in this build but IMO not effect the overall appearance of the completed model.
Attachments
I would say the model's more of a 'Ceta' build as both Surfduke and myself have successfully built the model so in theory, it should be the instructions that need a tweak more than the kit. Surfduke however is an old hand, and as for myself I simply found it easier building it the 5th time around:razz:
B-Manic said:
Not sure of the angle you've got there, but it should look something like this (apologies for the poor quality):
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paulhbell
I am fairly new to card modeling, so I find leaving the tabs on is easier for me. Ihave now finished the boots and the legs. Will post some photos in a while. Sorry about the early photos being out of focus, I did not check the lens on the camera, my sisters kids have been playing with it.
paulhbell said:
That's what the tabs are there for
I think if you were intending to use invisible tabs you'd have to be carefull as some parts will need a little more support than others - definitley one for the more experienced builders IMO.
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paulhbell
BazookaJo said:
Thanks for the side view. The angle is perfect. Whew, I was considering a restart. Not much more progress tonight, its mother-in-laws birthday
B-Manic said:Thanks for the side view. The angle is perfect. Whew, I was considering a restart. Not much more progress tonight, its mother-in-laws birthday
Shame - Marvin would have made the perfect gift:twisted:
Ok a few updates, kind of slowed down on my progress a bit. as I said last post finished up with the gloves. I found them to be rather easy, which is a pleasant surprise for me given my skill level. I have expected them to be a mess.
Here the gloves are dry fitted, as with just about everything I have assembled
and the Helmet, which did not start out difficult at first, but then became a real pain for me, But! I think I know why. I discovered that my cardstock is mixed together. So I have 67# and 110# intermixed on Marvin. But rather than start over I just truck on ahead. I also started the face, it is really starting to come together. BazookaJo I have to say that thus far any problems I have encountered I have to attribute to ny skills. That being said, your model is making me unlearn some of my plastic modeling skills, and learn, I would have to say some advance techniques. I noticed last night I am beggining to cut quicker and more accurate. So kudos to you sir. I do need a little clarification on something. Parts k2 and k3. should these line up with the score lines, or just match up as smoothly as possible?
David
Here the gloves are dry fitted, as with just about everything I have assembled
and the Helmet, which did not start out difficult at first, but then became a real pain for me, But! I think I know why. I discovered that my cardstock is mixed together. So I have 67# and 110# intermixed on Marvin. But rather than start over I just truck on ahead. I also started the face, it is really starting to come together. BazookaJo I have to say that thus far any problems I have encountered I have to attribute to ny skills. That being said, your model is making me unlearn some of my plastic modeling skills, and learn, I would have to say some advance techniques. I noticed last night I am beggining to cut quicker and more accurate. So kudos to you sir.
I do need a little clarification on something. Parts k2 and k3. should these line up with the score lines, or just match up as smoothly as possible?David
Attachments
It's looking pretty good Sneaker:grin:
K2 and K3 are simply to give extra depth to the back of the outer sides of the eye sockets (the inner sides of the eye sockets get additional depth when the eyebrows are attached).
So easiest thing to to is cut the strips around the eye sockets and bend them backwards inside the face at a right angle to the face. You should then see where K2 and K3 need to go i.e. flush to the edges of the strips. Then when K2 & K3 have dried into place the eye socket strips are bent over K2 & K3 and glued into place.
If you manage to figure this please take a photo of the back of the face as this would have helped significantly if you're still unsure, get back to me.
Regards
Paul.
P.S. well done on the helmet - that can be a real pain
K2 and K3 are simply to give extra depth to the back of the outer sides of the eye sockets (the inner sides of the eye sockets get additional depth when the eyebrows are attached).
So easiest thing to to is cut the strips around the eye sockets and bend them backwards inside the face at a right angle to the face. You should then see where K2 and K3 need to go i.e. flush to the edges of the strips. Then when K2 & K3 have dried into place the eye socket strips are bent over K2 & K3 and glued into place.
If you manage to figure this please take a photo of the back of the face as this would have helped significantly
if you're still unsure, get back to me.Regards
Paul.
P.S. well done on the helmet - that can be a real pain
Ya know what............. I've gotta make me one of those helmets for Halloween next year!
This is looking good, I can't wait until it's released, I already have a spot picked out on my desk at work:grin:
john
This is looking good, I can't wait until it's released, I already have a spot picked out on my desk at work:grin:
john
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paulhbell
BazookaJo said:
Thanks, it was challenging. It does bring to mind a bit of a noob question:-? regarding those flaps, or any flaps in general. Do you want to score those tabs? And also is it a designers intention that the ends mate up perfectly with the lines precedding the flaps, or is there room to play with overlap. does this make any sense? I notice that it would appear, at least to me that you want to get as close to the edge as possible, however sometimes this proves to difficult (not necassarily on your model, just in general) unless you play around with the curvature. I hope this make sense.
I will attach the eye pieces tonight and put up some pics.
This does make sense to me.
David
sneaker said:
Hi David
On most of my model the tabs that should be scored have a dotted line across, the ones that shouldn't don't.
For other models, if the point at which the tab meets the model is an angle then score, but if the surface is reasonably flat it might be best not to score e.g. on Marvins arms - if you score the tabs, the cross section can look like a teardrop instead of a smooth curve (if that makes sense).
I aim for the edge of the model to meet the score line of the tab i.e. I want to hide the white of the tab but nothing more, and your right, it can be tricky:-D
I can only speak for myself however, but I've only ever built 5 complete paper models and 2 of those were the Marvin Alpha and Marvin Beta.
Regards
Paul.