Lindberg 1:48th F11F Tiger

[micahrogers]

okay a 1 post build thread , as I forgot to take the step by step pics.

the box.


and the cockpit done.



and I forgot to take any more pics...
It was a quick and dirty build as I noticed a couple pieces were short shot when molded. the engine was nice, but one piece was short, luckily it's only visible thru a little hatch


The other short shot piece was the underside of the port wing.
pic from topside port.

Not bad for a kit first mastered in the 70's.

It was such a simple plane, and one of the guys at work knows a guy who flew them, so it went to a good home.

 

[McGee]

Hey Micah, very nice job on the Tiger. I have the XF-88 Voodoo from them, and it appears that they use the same pilot and seat.
Also the nifty little "look at the engine in this beaut' " opening access door is a feature on the Voodoo model.
I've been wanting to tackle it, and have done so here and there, but it's a slooooow go with my handful of other modelling projects in the kettle.
The biggest bane of it is that I want to do a good natural metal finish on it with some good atmospheric and friction oxidation on it, and so there's going to be some considerable "glitch and glaring flaw" checks until its smooth enough to carry a few metalic coats.
....and sooooooo many rivets.. YUK.
Im not a rivet counter so maybe ill sand em all off and NOT have to count a dang one of 'em.

 

[zathros]

That would make a nice Pper model, seriously. It has simple lines. Very nice job on it. I like the engine bay access too!

 

[micahrogers]

The biggest bane of it is that I want to do a good natural metal finish on it with some good atmospheric and friction oxidation on it, and so there's going to be some considerable "glitch and glaring flaw" checks until its smooth enough to carry a few metalic coats.
....and sooooooo many rivets.. YUK.
Im not a rivet counter so maybe ill sand em all off and NOT have to count a dang one of 'em.

Back before I became environmentally conscious, I used SnJ SprayMetal, Alclad Lacquers, anf Testors Metalizers, all of which are solvent based. Now that I have switched to environmentally friendlier Acrylic paints and there are no good NM finishes in acrylic. The best I've seen yet are Vallejo's Liquid Metals line of alcohol based metallics, but they are only available in Silver, Brass, Bronze, and a couple different Gold tones.

I tried Bare Metal foil once and ruined a model with them, so my Academy Mirage III c will have to wait.

 

[McGee]

I actually thought about the bare metal foil route, but yeah, that stuff can be a nightmare. A mirage III in all natural metal will look beautiful. Please post it when you get it finished.

 

[zathros]

I coated a model with this protectant paint and spray painted it with High Temperature Aluminum paint. Boy did it shine (It was a car model). I did not get enough protectant on a couple of spots, and it looked like someone hit the car with a heat ray! I have found out thought if you are painting "real aluminum", and you want to get that Honda-like finish on the crankcase, or wheel hubs, use "High Temperature Aluminum Paint", then spray it with a clear coat. The resulting color is like a Honda painted motorcycle case, and is very durable. I did my CB400F wheel hubs when I re-laced them with stainless steel spokes and Gold anodized aluminum D.I.D. Rims. 30 years later, they still look good.

 

[silveroxide]

A technique that I have used successfully, is regular aluminum foil. It has a bright side and a semi dull side for contrasting looks. I cut a page size sheet out and spray paint with spray adhesive. If you need to cut small sections out, I place the glue side down on wax paper/cookie sheet. You have to cut carefully because the edges may catch and cause small rips. When you press it down, it conforms to the contours and the small panel lines. When I built the Revell large scale F-4 Phantom ( about the same size as the Maly Modelarz). I used the aluminum foil at the exhaust section and it made it look more authentic.