lighting question

seraphim

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:cool: so i know it might be a bit of an odd question when it comes to card modelling - but does/has anyone used LED lighting in their kits, was/is/does it pose any issues and if you do/have used them did you use generic model lighting kits?
Cheers for the/answers/info/help
(lol)
Az
 
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micahrogers

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The only issue I would see with lighting a paper model would be heat, even LEDs put off heat, and soldering the gets hot.
form my LED experiment look at my thread here

I use generic RGB LEDs to light my 1/144th Bandai Millennium Falcon. The only real problem I had was the strip I used had a 3 LED limit to cut them apart.
 
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zathros

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Firstly, and I see this done too much, you need very thin wires for LED wires. You can even use conductive glue, used fox fixing traces on cicuit boards to attach LEDs. Secondly, just making a box around the LED, and painting it black will get rid of stray light issues. I see people use wire here that could be used for a starter motor on a car. If you look it up, you can, as long as you don't expose the cathode or anode, file and Polish LED's to get different lighting effects. Using conductive adhesive to make on/off switches means you can have points in the model that make the model light up be squeezing certain areas, which will make it magical looking. Yes, use LEDs, they really make for awesome models, especially at night. Copper Foil Tape works specially well too.;)

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Adhesives/b?ie=UTF8&node=401542011
 

seraphim

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Sep 1, 2023
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Firstly, and I see this done too much, you need very thin wires for LED wires. You can even use conductive glue, used fox fixing traces on cicuit boards to attach LEDs. Secondly, just making a box around the LED, and painting it black will get rid of stray light issues. I see people use wire here that could be used for a starter motor on a car. If you look it up, you can, as long as you don't expose the cathode or anode, file and Polish LED's to get different lighting effects. Using conductive adhesive to make on/off switches means you can have points in the model that make the model light up be squeezing certain areas, which will make it magical looking. Yes, use LEDs, they really make for awesome models, especially at night. Copper Foil Tape works specially well too.;)

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Adhesives/b?ie=UTF8&node=401542011
ive done alot of lighting on plastic/resin builds before, but never on card builds - im not at the stage yet where im practiced enough with my building card kits to go the lighting route but i definitely will be doing in future builds if i can, i think they provide a little extra pop to a kit and there are so many great card kits that its a shame to not make the most of them if possible :cool:
 

micahrogers

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Firstly, and I see this done too much, you need very thin wires for LED wires. You can even use conductive glue, used fox fixing traces on cicuit boards to attach LEDs. Secondly, just making a box around the LED, and painting it black will get rid of stray light issues. I see people use wire here that could be used for a starter motor on a car. If you look it up, you can, as long as you don't expose the cathode or anode, file and Polish LED's to get different lighting effects. Using conductive adhesive to make on/off switches means you can have points in the model that make the model light up be squeezing certain areas, which will make it magical looking. Yes, use LEDs, they really make for awesome models, especially at night. Copper Foil Tape works specially well too.;)

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Conductive-Adhesives/b?ie=UTF8&node=401542011
I keep forgetting that the conductive adhesive is a thing now. Maybe that, used in conjunction with copper tape to get rid of wires.
 

spaceagent-9

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The Dollar tree or Blinkeybodylights.com has cheap LEDs with buttons, switches and battery cases, sound effects and various lighting effects. all you have to do is tear them apart and twist the wires or solder them together, tape them into place and use wax paper for the windows or even plastic. The only issues I have had is that the seams bleed light pretty much in a frustrating way. Light boxing with black tape or black paper reduces that. It takes a lot of practice.