layout progress
- Thread starter wickman
- Start date
Yes...looks very good. I don't think I've ever seen a building model like that. Who makes it?
Ed
Ed
Thanks guys you make me feel all warm and cuddly sign1
The kits a Campbells , I have the Campbells Ayer's Chairs to do as well . They really are great kits. The paints I use are floquils for the metal I give it a base coat of grime then a coat of depot olive. The windows were done with mineral red. All the wood is done with alcohol/india ink wash as well as brown dye and acholhol washes. The building once painted wash given a wash of A\I . As you've probably noticed from this building and other parts of my layout I like the unkept look sign1
The kits a Campbells , I have the Campbells Ayer's Chairs to do as well . They really are great kits. The paints I use are floquils for the metal I give it a base coat of grime then a coat of depot olive. The windows were done with mineral red. All the wood is done with alcohol/india ink wash as well as brown dye and acholhol washes. The building once painted wash given a wash of A\I . As you've probably noticed from this building and other parts of my layout I like the unkept look sign1
Hi folks I had thought I had posted this before ...guess not so here it is now 
Here's my take on how I mounted my tortoise switch machines to the peco turnouts.
I could have changed all the standard sized tortoise point throw wire to a heavier guage as I found with the peco springs the tortoise was not reliable so I simply removed the peco spring .
I'll make it as step by step as possible.
First step was to use my drill to cut a slot wide enuff for the tortoise throw wire to travel freely without being obstructed by the benchwork wood or cork roadbed,second step I lined up the tortoise switch from under the benchwork so it would throw the peco turnoutpoints then I used a marker to trace around the tortoise switch to mark its mounting location,I then moved the tortoise out of the way , I put one side of velcro on the underside of the plywood ( 2 strips wide) applied the opposite
adjoining velcro to the tortoise switch ( 2 strips ) , mounted the toroise to the velcro , chked that the turnout would throw ok if it didn't I fine tuned by just giving a slight twist and gave the tortoise a good push upward so it was good and secure once I was happy with the point action , I used #4 x 1/2" screws (the ones that need the #zero screw driver) I
screwed in the first screw about 3/4 the way in on the wire end corner then I went to opposite corner 3/4 screw in then the other 2 corners I seated the 4 screws evenly then double chked the throwing action of the points.If you find for some reason that it went on crooked or just bad you can turn the tortiose around coming from the opposite direction.The velcro was a bit of an added cost but this worked like a charm for me. I found the points wouldn't throw with the springs in so rather than
stretching the spring to weaken the action I took the springs out and they worked great except for they large Y turnout at the reverse loop intersection which no matter what I did didn't seem to allow the points to hug tightly against the adjoining rail so I put that spring back in but I colapsed the spring a bit so the tortoise could throw it with the size of wire that came with it.
Once all the tortoise switches were secure I snipped off the excess throw wire.
If I find I'm not happy down the road with the springs out I will reinstall all the springs but collapsed a bit so there not so strong.
If you want more info on mounting these try this link out.
http://www.sheridanonline.me.uk/
Just thought I would add a few more step by step pics for mounting the tortoise switches
I used 3/4" wide strips of velcro ( sticky back )
stick 2 strips to top of tortoise
set the tortoise throw wire to centre
line up the tortoise from underneath with throw wire poking through points hole making sure while holding it up in position that the peco points will indeed touch the rails when thrown and mark with pen around the tortiose where the velcro will have to be stuck on
the pen indicates the hole in benchwork
stick on 2 strips of velcro inside pen outline
mount the tortoise onto the velcro and test the points to make sure they touch each rail when there thrown
use #4 x 1/2" wood crews ( the tiny ones that use #0 robertson screw driver)
start inserting screws while pushing up on the tortoise
when all the screws are in test the point action again and adjust the the stength of the throw wire with the little green doohicky by sliding it downward
Here's my take on how I mounted my tortoise switch machines to the peco turnouts.
I could have changed all the standard sized tortoise point throw wire to a heavier guage as I found with the peco springs the tortoise was not reliable so I simply removed the peco spring .
I'll make it as step by step as possible.
First step was to use my drill to cut a slot wide enuff for the tortoise throw wire to travel freely without being obstructed by the benchwork wood or cork roadbed,second step I lined up the tortoise switch from under the benchwork so it would throw the peco turnoutpoints then I used a marker to trace around the tortoise switch to mark its mounting location,I then moved the tortoise out of the way , I put one side of velcro on the underside of the plywood ( 2 strips wide) applied the opposite
adjoining velcro to the tortoise switch ( 2 strips ) , mounted the toroise to the velcro , chked that the turnout would throw ok if it didn't I fine tuned by just giving a slight twist and gave the tortoise a good push upward so it was good and secure once I was happy with the point action , I used #4 x 1/2" screws (the ones that need the #zero screw driver) I
screwed in the first screw about 3/4 the way in on the wire end corner then I went to opposite corner 3/4 screw in then the other 2 corners I seated the 4 screws evenly then double chked the throwing action of the points.If you find for some reason that it went on crooked or just bad you can turn the tortiose around coming from the opposite direction.The velcro was a bit of an added cost but this worked like a charm for me. I found the points wouldn't throw with the springs in so rather than
stretching the spring to weaken the action I took the springs out and they worked great except for they large Y turnout at the reverse loop intersection which no matter what I did didn't seem to allow the points to hug tightly against the adjoining rail so I put that spring back in but I colapsed the spring a bit so the tortoise could throw it with the size of wire that came with it.
Once all the tortoise switches were secure I snipped off the excess throw wire.
If I find I'm not happy down the road with the springs out I will reinstall all the springs but collapsed a bit so there not so strong.
If you want more info on mounting these try this link out.
http://www.sheridanonline.me.uk/
Just thought I would add a few more step by step pics for mounting the tortoise switches
I used 3/4" wide strips of velcro ( sticky back )
stick 2 strips to top of tortoise
set the tortoise throw wire to centre
line up the tortoise from underneath with throw wire poking through points hole making sure while holding it up in position that the peco points will indeed touch the rails when thrown and mark with pen around the tortiose where the velcro will have to be stuck on
the pen indicates the hole in benchwork
stick on 2 strips of velcro inside pen outline
mount the tortoise onto the velcro and test the points to make sure they touch each rail when there thrown
use #4 x 1/2" wood crews ( the tiny ones that use #0 robertson screw driver)
start inserting screws while pushing up on the tortoise
when all the screws are in test the point action again and adjust the the stength of the throw wire with the little green doohicky by sliding it downward
Here's an update on the Barrel Factory.I'm presently working on the stair support frame work this seems to take forever because you can only attach a couple peices at a time , let them dry and move on to the next.
The stairs still need some trimming but they seem to fit in ok.
For the roof I used darryl Huffmans method for a dingy red tar paper roof. I'm waiting for the last 2 sections to dry I just attached the chimney. For the chimney I first gave a coat of grime then after an hour mixed up some black and red. For the smoke stack I gave a coat of grime then weathered black.
I haven't even opened the lid on the Bragdon Weathering powders , but when I do this building will look good and run down.
The stairs still need some trimming but they seem to fit in ok.
For the roof I used darryl Huffmans method for a dingy red tar paper roof. I'm waiting for the last 2 sections to dry I just attached the chimney. For the chimney I first gave a coat of grime then after an hour mixed up some black and red. For the smoke stack I gave a coat of grime then weathered black.
I haven't even opened the lid on the Bragdon Weathering powders , but when I do this building will look good and run down.
Wow, what a tempo you have! Impressing
And so well documented. It can be nominated to "How to build a model railroad".
The Barrel factory looks just great with that old tar roof for instance.
Finally, applause for an excellent work
And so well documented. It can be nominated to "How to build a model railroad".
The Barrel factory looks just great with that old tar roof for instance.
Finally, applause for an excellent work
Thanks guys I still have to weather up the barrel factory , the roof will actually look better when its done. The next campbell kit I do wil probably have a green tar paper roof . I love being adventurous.
I've been working on a couple things or should I say a couple areas of the layout.
I added on a bit of realestate to one area so my buildings would fit a bit better 4" deep to be exact. I put together a few dpm kits to fill the area I just primed them and put the walls up some day I'll detail them. I put together papa wheelies which is a two building setup, harlie and son these are both Gold kits with lots of castings,a work shop garage its actually a modular kit for learning,a natiaonal bank,skips chicken, schultz garage and roberts dry goods.
I added on a bit of realestate to one area so my buildings would fit a bit better 4" deep to be exact. I put together a few dpm kits to fill the area I just primed them and put the walls up some day I'll detail them. I put together papa wheelies which is a two building setup, harlie and son these are both Gold kits with lots of castings,a work shop garage its actually a modular kit for learning,a natiaonal bank,skips chicken, schultz garage and roberts dry goods.
On this second post you can see where Mooneys plubling Campbell Barrel factory, Papa Wheelies saloon and Harlie and Son will go on the new hill.
Thanks Steve as you've probably already noticed I'm not much for starting and finishing the Barrel factory will get detailed down the road once everything else is in place and I can drive on the roads
Lynn
Looks like another great section of your railroad!!!!! I especially like the elevation changes that you have placed/carved in the last pic...that is going to look very sweet indeed. Also the rock work in the background truly looks top notch!..great work all the way around
Looks like another great section of your railroad!!!!! I especially like the elevation changes that you have placed/carved in the last pic...that is going to look very sweet indeed. Also the rock work in the background truly looks top notch!..great work all the way around
Dude.
What. The. Kadoozie.
Absoutely stunningly unbe-freaking-lievable. I could never even get 1/1,000,000 as good as you have on your first layout.
Oh, and nice too.
KEEP IT UP and UPDATE MORE OFTEN!
What. The. Kadoozie.
Absoutely stunningly unbe-freaking-lievable. I could never even get 1/1,000,000 as good as you have on your first layout.
Oh, and nice too.
KEEP IT UP and UPDATE MORE OFTEN!
I got the hill all plastered up and ready to go. I decided not to have Mooney's plumbing on the hill , it was just too cramped. The Barrel Factory will have to make its way down the road to the siding for pickups and drop offs.I think its just about time to try my hands at some ground goop seeing as I finally got all the ingredients ,this should be interesting.
I got the hill all plastered up and ready to go. I decided not to have Mooney's plumbing on the hill , it was just too cramped. The Barrel Factory will have to make its way down the road to the siding for pickups and drop offs.I think its just about time to try my hands at some ground goop seeing as I finally got all the ingredients ,this should be interesting.
I got the hill all plastered up and ready to go. I decided not to have Mooney's plumbing on the hill , it was just too cramped. The Barrel Factory will have to make its way down the road to the siding for pickups and drop offs.I think its just about time to try my hands at some ground goop seeing as I finally got all the ingredients ,this should be interesting.
I figured seeing as I was into the plaster anyway with the new hill I'd add a few small scenic hills to break up the flatness of the lumber and coal industries a bit. I decided to just grab last weeks advertising crumple it a bit and staple it down then I slathered on the tinted plaster of paris with a big brush. I did 2 coats so far I thik one more should do it the I'll paint it brown.
