I have been working like the Devil to find a small C&O engine for a small layout that I want to build. Unfortunately I run in to dead ends. The Bachmann 2-8-0 that is coming out in C&O doesn't resemble a C&O, the BLI 2-8-2 is a ghost and so is their C&O phase 2 sw7, and the Proto 0-8-0 being from Walthers carries a very healthy price tag. I came upon an IHC Mikado and was wondering if it's close to a C&O and how well do they run? If anyone can give me some input I will be much appreciative. Thanks for your time.
IHC Mikado?
- Thread starter wilbro47
- Start date
N
nachoman
My brother had an IHC pacific that ran great. I had an ihc 4-4-0 that also ran great. The 4-4-0 is now in pieces because the flages are too deep and it won't run on code 70. So I am putting the 4-4-0 boiler on an MDC 2-6-0 mechnism. If you run code 70 track, be wary of older IHC unless it specifies RP-25 wheels. I think their "premier series" have RP-25 wheels.
I think the IHC 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2 share the same boiler. The pacific is a USRA light pacific, and the 2-8-2 resembles a USRA light mikado. The c&o had copies of the USRA light mikado, so you should be able to take the IHC engine and detail it and produce a reasonable C&O engine.
edit - there are a few photos here:
http://www.chessieshop.com/gallery/ndbsearch.pl?start=2751&command=displayall
C&O engines are distinctive, and to make the IHC engine look like a C&O engine you would need to substitute a vanderbuilt tender and move the compressors to the smokebox.
Kevin
I think the IHC 2-8-2 and the 4-6-2 share the same boiler. The pacific is a USRA light pacific, and the 2-8-2 resembles a USRA light mikado. The c&o had copies of the USRA light mikado, so you should be able to take the IHC engine and detail it and produce a reasonable C&O engine.
edit - there are a few photos here:
http://www.chessieshop.com/gallery/ndbsearch.pl?start=2751&command=displayall
C&O engines are distinctive, and to make the IHC engine look like a C&O engine you would need to substitute a vanderbuilt tender and move the compressors to the smokebox.
Kevin
I ditto the warning on code 70 track and even extend it to include code 83. IHC, Rivarossi and AHM locos run very well except that the deep flanges were really only meant to be run on code 100. Otherwise these locos are reliable and fairly quiet as long as you do some occasional servicing. I only wish IHC or some enterprising manufacturer could produce replacement wheels in RP25.
-Ed
-Ed
i found that alot of manufacturers do not make the true C&O models as they were pretty much one of a kind.and unless its short production brass its not cost effective to build.the only real C&O only engines that are made are of the larger engines which usually are so expensive they become show pieces.but basically modifying a regular engine isnt that hard depending on the prototypical engine and how detailed you want it to be.when i want to build a specific C&O engine i ometimes start with bowser as there kits are nice,they sell all the extra details needed and since there metal its easy to solder too.so if you do wan to modify thins i highly recommend the COHS book on C&O steam.it has drawings for all the mian engines they used and the modifications.im sory i never bougt an IHC engine although my freinds have and say they run great but complained about SOME lack of detail.although it is a pretty good bang for the buck.especially if there going to be modified anyway.--josh
I've posted this elsewhere (but don't remember exactly where 
ops: ) so I'll offer it again. While this won't give you the RP25 tread profile, there is an easy way to turn down the flanges on locos like those from IHC. All you need is a pair of leads from your power pack and a cut-off disk in your Dremel.
If you keep the loco upright, you probably won't even have to disassemble it, beyond taking the body off to get at the motor. Clip the leads to the motor, then turn on the power, holding the loco upright in your hand. Get the wheels turning at about half-speed. With the Dremel running at high speed, lightly touch the face (not the edge) of the cut-off disk to a wheel flange, keeping the point of contact as low as possible to avoid getting the cutting residue in the mechanism of the loco. The light touch is very important, both to avoid shattering the disk, and also to avoid overheating the tire of the wheel, as the driver centres are plastic. Work for a few seconds on one driver, then go to another, alternating until you get them all to the stage you need for operation on your track. If you think that you may have gotten any cutting residue in the mechanism, disassemble the loco and clean it thoroughly. It's been some time since I did mine and I vaguely recall protecting some areas with masking tape, although I'd have to take it apart to elaborate on that.
You can try turning the unpowered wheels by hand, but a better solution is to remove them, then chuck them in a drill to get them turning at a higher speed. You could also replace them with more suitable wheels.
Wayne
ops: ) so I'll offer it again. While this won't give you the RP25 tread profile, there is an easy way to turn down the flanges on locos like those from IHC. All you need is a pair of leads from your power pack and a cut-off disk in your Dremel. If you keep the loco upright, you probably won't even have to disassemble it, beyond taking the body off to get at the motor. Clip the leads to the motor, then turn on the power, holding the loco upright in your hand. Get the wheels turning at about half-speed. With the Dremel running at high speed, lightly touch the face (not the edge) of the cut-off disk to a wheel flange, keeping the point of contact as low as possible to avoid getting the cutting residue in the mechanism of the loco. The light touch is very important, both to avoid shattering the disk, and also to avoid overheating the tire of the wheel, as the driver centres are plastic. Work for a few seconds on one driver, then go to another, alternating until you get them all to the stage you need for operation on your track. If you think that you may have gotten any cutting residue in the mechanism, disassemble the loco and clean it thoroughly. It's been some time since I did mine and I vaguely recall protecting some areas with masking tape, although I'd have to take it apart to elaborate on that.
You can try turning the unpowered wheels by hand, but a better solution is to remove them, then chuck them in a drill to get them turning at a higher speed. You could also replace them with more suitable wheels.
Wayne
I have an IHC Mikado. Almost every Christmas, one of our huge grocery store chains (Loblaws) sells an IHC-made Canadian train set.
One of their first ones made in the early-90s featured a Mikado with CN livery. It actually runs very well and smoothly, but struggles when hauling really long trains.
I'd like to weight it down to improve traction but there's very little space to add weights.
Rob
One of their first ones made in the early-90s featured a Mikado with CN livery. It actually runs very well and smoothly, but struggles when hauling really long trains.
I'd like to weight it down to improve traction but there's very little space to add weights.
Rob
Technically, yes, but actually, no. The C&O subsidiary road Pere Marquette had the USRA light mikes, and copies. These would have run in PM territory (Michigan and Southern Ontario), and not likely over the whole C&O system.
The IHC/Mehano Mikado is a USRA "light" Mikado (290,000 lbs) the C&O mikados were all "heavy" designs (most over 300,000 lbs). Look around for old AHM (Rivarossi) mikados, they did up a USRA heavy mike to look like a C&O K2.
Or you might find a BLI Blue-Line heavy Mike that you can repaint, or one of their Powerhouse series light mikes already painted for C&O.
The K-1's didn't have the flying pumps when they were first constructed and delivered, did they? 
I've been trying to find early pictures of them.
I've been trying to find early pictures of them.
L
lester perry
I have 2 Athearn mikados and they run great but lack a little in detail. I have also modified 2 Mantuas by adding flying pumps and fedd water tanks they look fairly good. I you want info on the Mantua modification PM me and I will try to find all the info you need such as manufacturers and part numbers
thess are only pics I can find. And the F unit is being towed to the shop, piece of junk diesle.
Les
Les