I Need An Estimate

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prodigy2k7

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Dec 17, 2006
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I couldnt find prices for some pieces of track, I made a rouch estimate of 200, im guessing its more but thats was my estimate.

Could anyone estimate the cost for BOTH of these layouts... first layout is my priority and if u have time plz try to estimate the 2nd layout (should cost less)

ezho2a.gif

(14) BachmannEZ 9 inch straight
(17) BachmannEZ R-18 30° curve
(3) BachmannEZ 4.5 inch straight
(20) BachmannEZ R-22 22.5° curve
(2) BachmannEZ inch straight
(2) BachmannEZ #5 lefthand turnout
(2) BachmannEZ 3 inch straight
(5) BachmannEZ std lefthand turnout
(3) BachmannEZ std righthand turnout
(6) BachmannEZ Hayes bumper
(2) BachmannEZ terminal straight
(2) BachmannEZ #5 righthand turnout



should cost less, 2nd layout:
ezho2.gif

(9) BachmannEZ 9 inch straight
(19) BachmannEZ R-18 30° curve
(3) BachmannEZ 4.5 inch straight
(20) BachmannEZ R-22 22.5° curve
(1) BachmannEZ inch straight
(3) BachmannEZ 3 inch straight
(2) BachmannEZ #5 lefthand turnout
(4) BachmannEZ std lefthand turnout
(1) BachmannEZ std righthand turnout
(3) BachmannEZ Hayes bumper
(4) BachmannEZ terminal straight
 
You can always use flex track and cork instead... If done right, it would work better than the Bachmann EZ Track, look better, and a bit cheaper too.

A 3-foot-long section of Flex Track costs under $3. The only really expensive items would be the turnouts, but here you win too because you can get more reliable turnouts like Peco's or Shinoharas, etc.

Hope this helps.
 
Ive played with trains before but never actually made a layout, i dont wish to use flex yet because i havent worked with a real layout or anything yet.
 
prodigy2k7 said:
Ive played with trains before but never actually made a layout, i dont wish to use flex yet because i havent worked with a real layout or anything yet.
Click to expand...

If you have a local hobby shop, buy a piece of flex track and a piece of cork roadbed. Take a piece of plywood and lay out your cork in a curve. Then just lay the flex track on the cork. I think you will find that it isn't that hard to use flex track and it will be a lot less expensive and work better as well.
 
prodigy2k7:

A 4x8 qualifies as a "real" layout. You will have to learn how to use flextrack sooner or later, so why not now?

As Russ pointed out, it's actually quite easy to work with flex track. In my opinion A LOT easier than working with EZ Track, as a matter of fact. The longer stretches of flex track gives you better electrical continuity, and lets you superelevate curves for more reliable running, plus the use of better turnouts will save you a lot of grief as well.

Once you start with the flex track, you will wonder why you even bothered putting up with all the difficulties of "EZ" (yeah, right) Track. :D
 
I too would recommend taking a stab at flex track. That's the one thing I regret--I used Atlas sectional track, and although it was just fine for my layout, I wish I'd taken the experience was flexitrack.

Besides, EZ Track isn't worth it, and the plastic ballast has always bothered me, you have more fun ballasting the track yourself, and the effect is oh so much more deserving.

And, yes, what you're attempting is a real layout, trust me. :thumb:
 
I estimate the Bachman track and switches, etc at approx $433+ or - depending on where you buy the track. Add on a 1/4" 4' X 8' plywood base, 1" foam 4' X 8' and glue and your looking at somewhere approx $500+.

I believe the Bachman track and switches are DCC friendly if you want to go that way. Whatever you save on flex track and cork you would probably spend on turnouts, so I am not sure it wouldn't be a wash. While the Bachman comes with the plastic ballast that makes it more expensive then flex track and cork, you can still add ballast to the track to make it look more prototypical. You won't need any cork (required for the flex track and turnouts) as you can glue the Bachman track straight to the foam board. Additional 1" or 2" foam sheets/boards will allow you to build some terrain, tunnels, creeks/rivers, and so forth.

I hope this helps.

Regards,
Trent Mulkern
Mechanicsville, MD
 
Prodigy2k7, I can relate to your hesitating using flex track, as a newbie I tried it and through trial and error, not to mention destroying some lengths of track (i'm all thumbs) but I must admit, the first layout I developed came out better then I expected due to the flex track.
 
prodigy2k7 said:
I couldnt find prices for some pieces of track, I made a rouch estimate of 200, im guessing its more but thats was my estimate.
Click to expand...

I too just started and was at first a little hesitant to use cork and flex .. i have a couple sections of flex and it came out o.k. (not perfect) but i like it ;). hahahah

I just need to get some nippers that cut flush. They sell some at the hobby shop. I ended up creating a jig using a vice and some wood and tie wraps and a level to level out my dremel to cut the track square.

I'd also suggest staying away from steel track. My track has only been electrified for 2 weeks and i've already spent more time than i care to cleaning the steel :(. I bought 3 track cleaning cars hahaha.
 
prodigy2k7 said:
Ive played with trains before but never actually made a layout, i dont wish to use flex yet because i havent worked with a real layout or anything yet.
Click to expand...
I'm in the same position, starting on my first layout. But I decided to learn it all at once (!) and go with the best track I could find, in order to improve the chances of having a layout that really works, rather than end up with something frustrating.

You might try a bit, just for practice, both ways, and see which you prefer to deal with.

- John
 
Jeffs_Railroad said:
YmeBP, I had some old brass tracks, but have updating with atlas 100.

Thanks, for sharing the info.
Jeff
Click to expand...

You'll see this sentence allot on these forums, "use nickel silver track". I bought a TOOOOON of track on ebay, only to sit and spend hours cleaning it (brass steel) and then to have it corrode and have to clean it again in a week. I have my trians setup in the basement it's not parched dry down there but it's not 140% humidity either so i can't imagine what it would be like in the summer when it is humid :(.

I haven't had a lick of trouble out of my nickle silver that i bought, i've had to clean the steel twice in two weeks and i haven't even bothered w/ the brass. I think i'm going to bring it to work and give it to someone or setup a loop w/ an old track cleaning car.

I started about a month ago and it's already come back to bite me ;( so take the advice of the folks on the forum w/ far more experince than me... buy nickle silver.
 
First, who has flex at under $3.00 per 36inches?????

Flex is not harder it is actually easier. It just seems harder. Too many guys are telling you the same thing so without having to pay for the upgrade after the fact you would be well to take their advise. IMO

Another little note on flex for sidings. You can tack it down with slight deformation so it is not dead straight which many sidings are not. When doing this have a track guage and tack it loosly first then use the guage for final tacking. This will impress people when it reminds them of watching a real train make those little twist and rolls.
I use to do this for branch lines and remember many people being amazed and yet it is really not hard to do at all, as long as you use a track guage to make it run well.

Wulfmann
 
First, who has flex at under $3.00 per 36inches?????
Click to expand...

Model Power flex US$2.09 per 36" -> http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/mdp/mdp105.htm
Atlas Code 100 flex US$2.39 per 36" -> http://e-hobbyland.com/flextrac36lo.html
Atlas again - US$2.45 each (box of 10) or US$2.35 each (box of 100) -> http://www.cchobbies.com/track/atlas1.htm

And the ultimate deal -

Atlas Code 100 US$1.89 each, when you buy 100 -> http://www.trainworld1.com/atlas/atlas_HO_track.htm
or Code 83 10 for US$25.00 from the same place.

My local train shop had a deal a while back for box of 10 for CAN$25.00.

Andrew
 
Wulfmann said:
First, who has flex at under $3.00 per 36inches?????

Flex is not harder it is actually easier. It just seems harder. Too many guys are telling you the same thing so without having to pay for the upgrade after the fact you would be well to take their advise. IMO

Another little note on flex for sidings. You can tack it down with slight deformation so it is not dead straight which many sidings are not. When doing this have a track guage and tack it loosly first then use the guage for final tacking. This will impress people when it reminds them of watching a real train make those little twist and rolls.
I use to do this for branch lines and remember many people being amazed and yet it is really not hard to do at all, as long as you use a track guage to make it run well.

Wulfmann
Click to expand...

Do you have any pictures of what you mean? Sidings are the next step in my layout.
 
If I do have pics that show it I do not know where they might be as I have been out of the hobby since 1984.
The big club I was a member of certainly would not allow such a thing. I did it on my 12X16 home layout. For one to make sure my cars ran perfect at the club.
Just imagine a straight 3 feet piece of track and as you put it down make it crooked back and forth enough so when 3 or 4 cars are being pushed in the siding they bounce around a little. As I said use a NMRA HO Guage so you don't get too crooked and certainly you don't want this on a mainline.

Wulfmann
 
Wulfmann said:
If I do have pics that show it I do not know where they might be as I have been out of the hobby since 1984.
The big club I was a member of certainly would not allow such a thing. I did it on my 12X16 home layout. For one to make sure my cars ran perfect at the club.
Just imagine a straight 3 feet piece of track and as you put it down make it crooked back and forth enough so when 3 or 4 cars are being pushed in the siding they bounce around a little. As I said use a NMRA HO Guage so you don't get too crooked and certainly you don't want this on a mainline.

Wulfmann
Click to expand...

AAAHHH i get it !! You know that is a great idea!! I was thinking of inserting a small piece of foam udner the cork to upset the balance of the track a little to get that wobble. I'm having fun running the trains around the track ;). I need to add some more cars though.
 
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