HMS Eskimo designing ships for dummys

[barry]

Marking out the waterline plate

You now have a little pile of cut frames arrange them carefully on your scanner and read them back into the computer.

Take a copy of the waterline plate on a new page and do some boring repitition.

Then layer menu , new layer and set the opacity to 50%

bring up the scan of the frames you have just done copy a frame into the waterline page with 50% opacity setting you can see through the two bits rotate the frame to the right angle move it to the requiste frame position and mark the edge position on the waterline base. (this is actually on the new layer delete the frame from this layer). Then merge down the marks and repeat ad nauseum.

Now join the dots with a curve tool.

I spent ages doing this on Eskimo and then discovered it was a straight line between frame 8 and the bow !!!!!!!

Ok you have a base.

Now you can glue it all together.

barry

 

[barry]

Hull sides

Hi All

You are on the Home straight at last

New page cut and paste the forward part of the hull side as shown above.

The red dots show the positions we are sure of so trim the print to these areas. Now go and sharpen a pencil and here we go back to prehistory.

Spot glue ( tacky glue) the side to the base and the forecastle break area and carefully push your hullside into it's final position and collecting all 12 fingers hold it there and run the pencil across the top of the deck. Gently pull the hull side off again and trim it to the pencil line. Scan it back into the computer so you can produce the other side.

Luckily the aft hull sides are straight all the way round. Decide where you want the wrap round of the stern to be mark the points on the deck cut a strip of paper wrap it round the stern mark the points on the strip. Measure it with a ruler copy and paste another aft hull side and trim it to the required length. Cut the aft hull sides to fit between the two sections.

At this point you should be looking at a pretty good hull.

You can now refine it to your hearts content.

barry

 

[barry]

HMS Eskimo completed hull

Hi All

Got tired of making ladders and vents and wanted to build some big bits instead and if I say so myself I am quite pleased with it, in spite of the fact that the stern hull was too long on the other side, didn't show though. I got a bit carried away with the rust and totally missed where the anchor fits so I will have to move that bit anyway.

The bow was once again glued in the places where it fitted and the deck joint marked and trimmed in some ways I like it cos I can make mistakes and hide them.

The glue should have dried on the LAST ladder

barry

 

[barry]

Eskimo build

The next step is copy all the decks accross and clean them up and add colour. The deckhouse sides were drawn with Siatki, coloured and then an overlay of the portholes etc dropped on from the original plan.

barry

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Looks great, Barry!

You probably mentioned this earlier, but what is the "Siatki" you mentio in drawing the deckhouse sides?

Cheers!

Jim

 

[barry]

Eskimo deck houses for real (well almost)

@Jim

Siatki is the graphics program Gremir provide for producing unfolded parts for card models you input your dimensions into the pattern and frankly press go everybody is an instant designer. The screen shown is a composite of 2 screens. I have not tried to design aircraft with it but for architects models it should be a blast

The "design" shown is B gun sides for Eskimo I think it is great because it is the only package where I do not need to think, there is NO LEARNING CURVE and it's cheap.

The rest is just my latest effort at Eskimo got muddled up where the doors went. Design is a bit odd the join is on the front corner of the part but I hate a join down the back. C gun deckhouse is a six sided and a square stuck on the front adds a bit of strength. I only drew the "square" parts on the main deck and coloured them grey that way the houses should sit without white bits all round.

barry

 

[Maurice]

Neat progress with your rusty trusty tribal Barry.

Cheers
Maurice

 

[barry]

Eskimo bridge

Hi All

Another try at the bridge needs a couple of searchlights, a binancle top and something to represent a pompom range finder top. This is a really weird looking device to say the least so it might get left for quite a while. Also the main range finder needs to be built probably a square box with a wire through it. The front glacis plate on the bridge requires (already has been now) a rework on the angles.

The carley floats are of course about 6 layers glued together and chopped out and are reasonably effective.

it may not show but this time I am trying to build the real thing.

@Maurice

thanks old friend almost poetic been reading Tim's bits ?

@Jim

Hope the last post answered your question

barry

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Hi, Barry!

Yes sir, that last post certainly cleared up the fog in me noggin. :lol:
No, all I need is some time to play around with the program...story of my life!

Thanks for an excellent thread, Barry...it has opened up a whole new world for me.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[Maurice]

Nothing so esoteric Barry. The label was inspired by the Muppet's rusty trusty telescope. :lol:

Cheers
Maurice

 

[barry]

Eskimo turrets

Hi All

Added the turrets to Eskimo I shall have to trim the 4.7" barrels back about 3mm ops: but they do not look too bad The gun breeches are a bit finicky and need a lot of concentration to get them square at least they stick out the right distance from the back of the turret. Anyway there was some daylight today so this is the progress so far I managed to get a good drawing of the mysterious Pompom range finder which was very peculiar looking on the drawing more like a tuba.

I am beginning to hope it may look reasonabe when finished.

I meant to photograph this from the other side which looks better because it is slightly thicker card.

The bridge columns are in but all need topping off one way or another. The gun barrels need to be cut back to the edge of the deckhouse.

I am pretty happy with the stern altough the rust on the starboard side is misaligned with the depth charge racks.


barry

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Hi, Barry!

Great update!! Everything seems to be falling together very well, mate. The guns are coming out aces.

If you didn't point out the rust runs on the stern I would not have noticed...by the way, the rust stains are really very well done...looks like you actually left her out in the rain for a while. :lol: Great job!

Looking forward to more when you can.

Cheers!

Jim

 

[barry]

4 barrel pompom

Slow progress basic structure of the 4 barrel pompom on C gun deck and the 4.7" guns are installed everything requires some touching up still especially the gun barrels.

barry

 

[barry]

updated pompom

finished basic pompom

view of better side of hull thicker card.

barry

 

[blitzbob]

hope you dont mind me asking but will this kit be published? the reason i ask. a good friend of mine's uncle was lost with this ship. and he would love a model of her.

bob

 

[barry]

Eskimo torpedo tubes

Hi All

No excuse just wanted to play and the sun shone for a change and the wind didn't blow her down the garden. Added the torpedo tubes and finished the pompom.

Finally got the gunbarrels to the right length something like 4.5" not 8" looks a lot more balanced.

@bob

If I ever get it so it is worth printing you are welcome to a copy but note it is not a Gremir model destroyer.

barry

 

[barry]

Eskimo bridge

Almost finished the bridge the pompom range finders at the rear of the bridge may be a tad big. Still needs the range finder and 2 lmg's on B gundeck.

started on the ready use lockers

finally realised that the searchlight platgorm is a lattice structure not a deckhouse as such.

I have been using a sheet of 80gsm paper printed with an all over matching grey colour for backing things like canvas dodgers to avoid thickening the part too much, comes in useful for masts as well.


barry

 

[barry]

Much ado about nothing

Hi All

A very small part and a lot of time to achieve it I tried to build the whole side structure in one go which turned out lopsided. In the end I cut each individual panel and use a top and bottom deck suitably coloured and attached each side seperately which produces a reasonably square structure and strong enough to handle. Needless to say it took about 4 hours to build and the joke is there are 2 carley floats going to almost cover the two long sides.............nut case.............

barry

 

[barry]

Deck Rails

Hi All

Apart from the anchor windless deck plates I think the card sectiions are finished. The deck rails are about 1/8th inch high and my hands will not solder that finely. My hobby is supposed to be cheap amusement so lazer cut and photoetch are out, so it's back to stick and string actually thin wire and thin nylon sewing machine thread, good job my wife thinks card models keep my hands working.

I cut a piece of plastic tube to the railing height and the wires slightly overlong then pushed the glued wire into the deck put the tube over the top of it and lined it up vertically. When the wires were well dry (I used PVA glue) I looped the cotton round and put a dab of glue on the stanchions to hold it. Not the greatest job in the world but it will do. If anyone can suggest a good metal glue which sets quickly I would appreciate it.

This job has to be finished before the deckstructures are glued down.

 

[Jim Krauzlis]

Hi, Barry!

Coming along very nicely, mate!
That part with the lattice cutouts is a difficult piece of work nicely executed. So what if it's all going to be covered by the rafts, it looks really good...and you can never tell if part of that lattice is going to be visible even with the rafts in place.

Railing coming along very well too, I see. I can't think of a better glue than CA for the railings. Have you tried using a rail making rack similar to what we talked about last year? Photoetch can be expensive, you are right, but you can work out something similar using CA saturated thread instead.

On a few webpages I have seen a rack made of wood overwhich the thread is wrapped parallel to each other and at spaces that match the distance between the stancions. Then, thinner thread is stretch across those "stancions" and the joints where they cross are touched with a bit of CA to bind them together, then the entire railing is soaked with CA to stiffen it up (you can use a strip of paper to channel the CA from the end of the bottle on to the thread to avoid droplets being formed on the thread). You could use the same thickness of thread, if you want, but I think using a thicker thread for the stanchions than the railings gives it a more accurate look.

Do this in a very well ventilated place, as the CA fumes are very harmful. You should end up with a pretty nice and stiff bit of railing which you then trim the excess thread from, paint it whatever color you need to, bend it where it needs to be to fit the length you are installing the railing on, and then just glue it to the deck...you can use holes in the deck if you want, just be sure you provide for extra length at the base of the stancions to fit into the holes and that the holes are not too big so that the whole thing just slides down to the deck...unless you want it to. :lol: I often leave in a bottom "rail" which I then use as the "base" to glue the railings to the deck, but making holes for the actual stancions works good too.

But, and this is my whole point, what you end up with is pretty much just as good as photoetched railing material, and you have the benefit of adjusting the thickness and location of the stancions to fit your model's particular requirements...and you can make up a bunch of railings at the same time, in one session, if the rack is made large enough. The only problem which you want to avoid, if its a big rack, is to ensure it is very sturdy so it won't twist out of shape under the tension of the thread wrappings (I ran into a problem with this using that foam core material for the rack I used on the Mexico Victory, you will recall). Also, make sure the stancion threads are parallel to one another, and the railings perpendicular to the stancions, before you start gluing up the intersection joints. You can use a strip of paper on which you've marked the proper spacing on both the upper and bottom part of the rack...being sure they are, indeed, set up exactly right to lay a parallel set of threads across them. I am rambling on a bit, so is any of this making sense? :roll:

Anyway, you might find it easier in the long run to try this rather than soldering up wire pieces or trying to thread and wrap the railings around the stancions which you've already installed on the deck. I try to do as much sub-assembly work off of the model as I can as my shaky hands will do me in for sure if I did all the work in situ on the model...yes, it has happened! :lol: Not sure if you will find any of this useful, but I hope at least some of it makes some sense. Sorry for the long post, mate! ops:

Looking forward to more when you can, Barry!

Cheers,
Jim