im trying to put together the Woodland Senice rural saw mill, its the white metal kit(not sure if that means its putiur).... im havin trubbel glueing it together..... im using super glue but it doesnt seem to really hold good... is there a special glue for these white metal kits?????
glue help...???
- Thread starter TheYardBoss
- Start date
I've used super glue to put together several whitemetal kits and found it to do a good job on the kit and a REALLY good job on fingers. I also use the cheapest I can find (dollar store) don't know if that matters
maby i got a bad thing of glue.... i have the chepo 4 pack for 1.99.... ill open a new one .... ty
Hi Yardboss,
Are you letting the glue on both pieces dry long enough before putting
them together? It makes a big difference.
Ron
Are you letting the glue on both pieces dry long enough before putting
them together? It makes a big difference.
Ron
You might try Testors model glue for metal kits, it comes in a green tube. I've used it for white metal kits, and it works really well. BTW white metal is usually antimony, or a mixture of pewter and antimony.
Kevin
Kevin
cidchase
Active Member
Wash the parts thoroughly (soap & hot water) to get rid of oil or mold release agents, and dry completely before gluing.
The ACC should work OK, but epoxy is probably better. Try 5-minute epoxy.
The ACC should work OK, but epoxy is probably better. Try 5-minute epoxy.
well i have some jb weld i was thinking about using....lol but i think ill wash en up and try a new superglue. if that isnt working then ill look in to getting the testers in the green tube.
ty for all the help
Neil
ty for all the help
Neil
The best tip you have here is to wash the parts thorougly before trying to glue them together. Your CA glue should work fine after that. Just remember, too much CA is not good either.
I think Ron's comment about letting the glue dry before putting the parts together is intended for contact cement type glues.
You can also get the "thick" CA that takes longer to dry, but is more fogiving of a less than perfect fit.
The key to the white metal parts staying stuck together is a good fit. You may have to take a file to every joint to get it to work. With the kits I have assembled, it takes longer to prep it all than to paint it and glue it...
Hope that helps.
Andrew
You can also get the "thick" CA that takes longer to dry, but is more fogiving of a less than perfect fit.
The key to the white metal parts staying stuck together is a good fit. You may have to take a file to every joint to get it to work. With the kits I have assembled, it takes longer to prep it all than to paint it and glue it...
Hope that helps.
Andrew
Hi Yardboss,
I think CA is a good way for gluing metal parts on plastic. I use in a few cases CA in a gel consistency, so you have a short time for correcting the positions of gluing parts. If you use liquid CA, use it sparingly and if glue is overflowing to sides of parts so you should take a soaking paper immedialtelly taking up all the glue that is outside of parts. With removing of the overflowing glue you 'll get a very fast time for drying and hardening.
In all cases you should clean parts before glueing and especially if have done a mistake with your first attempt, you must remove all old glue from parts. I this case I use grinding paper or also graters or a fine file. Many success!!
Bernhard
I think CA is a good way for gluing metal parts on plastic. I use in a few cases CA in a gel consistency, so you have a short time for correcting the positions of gluing parts. If you use liquid CA, use it sparingly and if glue is overflowing to sides of parts so you should take a soaking paper immedialtelly taking up all the glue that is outside of parts. With removing of the overflowing glue you 'll get a very fast time for drying and hardening.
In all cases you should clean parts before glueing and especially if have done a mistake with your first attempt, you must remove all old glue from parts. I this case I use grinding paper or also graters or a fine file. Many success!!
Bernhard
cidchase
Active Member
"Another important trait is that cyanoacrylate sets up fast, often in less than a minute. A normal bond reaches full strength in two hours, and is waterproof. There are also accelerants that can force a set-up as fast as two or three seconds, at some loss of strength.
Acetone, which is found in nail polish remover, is a commonly available solvent capable of softening cured super glue.
Cold temperatures cause cyanoacrylate to become brittle. Cyanoacrylate's bond can be weakened, allowing disassembly, by placing a glued object in a household freezer for several hours." announce1
didn't know that
Acetone, which is found in nail polish remover, is a commonly available solvent capable of softening cured super glue.
Cold temperatures cause cyanoacrylate to become brittle. Cyanoacrylate's bond can be weakened, allowing disassembly, by placing a glued object in a household freezer for several hours." announce1
didn't know that
Like MJ suggests, I use the gel type CA, pught at the dollar store for three tubes for a buck. Works great. Also less likely to glue all your fingers together.
Doc
Doc
Use super glue, but the gel formula. Most super glues tend to be thin and won't fill the small gaps in joints. The gel is gap filling and adds strength.