Future Module Plans (Near Furture)

T

TruckLover

Mack CH613 & 53' Trailer
Apr 14, 2006
4,073
0
36
35
Rancho Santa Margarita, Cali.
Hello Everyone,

Yes yes yes im doing MORE modules. I cannot continue with the BIG layout i planned for my room. Just too many complications, I hate to say it but im now thinking that it would be best if I waited till i move out and get my own place to start it :rolleyes: but in the mean time, ill do some MORE MODULES :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Heres my plan, Im going to build them in 2' x 6' sections (roughly bassed off the NMRA module standards). Im going to wire them according to the standards and have backdrops on ALL of them. I came up with 9 moulde plans so far and im still doing a couple more. Im going to store them on the walls in my room using shelf brackets (4-5 per module). I can fit 3-4 modules (depending on the building heights on each module) in a stack going up the wall (2 of the walls will allow 2 2'x6' modules next to each other giveing a total of 6-8 modules on each wall) and the other 2 walls can hold 3-4 modules (again depending on the height of the buildings on each module) each. Thats PLENTY of room for TONS of modules.

Here are the first 9 modules I came up with. Some of them have no particular arangement but most of them need to be placed with the ones next to it. I have #'ed them Module 1-9. The ones that say "moudle # no aragement" dont have to go with any particular module but all the ones that say "module # row 1" need to be hooked up with one of the ones next to it. For example Module #3 can be paired with Module #2 or Module #4 but no others because of the way the track is layed out. Its kinda confussing but it works for me lol.


Module #1:
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Washington Salvage Yard (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-2928)
  2. Walthers Cornersone Medusa Cement (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3019)
WashingtonSalvageYardandMedusaCemen.jpg


Module #2
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Walton & Sons Lumber Yard (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3057)
  2. Walthers Cornerstone Armstrong Electric Motors (2) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3172)
WaltonSonsLumberArmstrongElectric.jpg


Module #3
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Heritage Furniture (2) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3164)
  2. Great West Models ST Plastics (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 24-106)
HeritageFurnitureSTPlastics.jpg


Module #4
  1. Great West Models Detroit Motors/Railcar Rebuilders (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 24-508)
DetroitMotors.jpg


Module #5
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Lakeview Warehousing (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-2917)
LakeviewWarehousing.jpg


Module #6
  1. Great West Models Twin Cities Distribution Warehouse (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 24-510)
TwinCitiesDistribution.jpg


Module #7
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Red Wing Flour Mill (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3026)
  2. Walthers Cornerstone Grain Silos (3) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3123)
  3. Walthers Cornerstone Grain Conveyor (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3124)
  4. Walthers Cornerstone Grain Dryer (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3128)
  5. Walthers Cornerstone ADM Grain Elevator (2) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3022)
  6. Walthers Cornerstone (NEW grain buildings/accessories added in for extreme detail) (www.walthers.com -- guide2/grain_series page)
GRAINCOMPLEX.jpg


Module #8
  1. City Classics Smallman Street Warehouse (with add on walls) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 195-103)
  2. City Classics Carnegie Street MFR. Building (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 195-109)
SmalltownWarehouseCarnegieStreetWar.jpg


Module #9
  1. Walthers Cornerstone Northern Light and Power Powerhouse (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3021)
  2. Walthers Cornerstone Substation (2) (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3025)
  3. Walthers Cornerstone High Voltage Transmission Towers (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3121)
  4. Walthers Cornerstone Electric Utility Poles (Walthers Model Railroad Mall -- product information page for 933-3101)
NorthernLightPowerPowerhouseandSubs.jpg
 
Those are some very nice plans Trucklover! However, do you only plan on running a few at a time, or are these all going to become some sort of portable layout? If the latter, you may want to think about modules that have curves or turntables. That's just IMO, though. Also, two other things:

1. Are your previous modules going to be involved? You Magic Pan Bakeries one was really awesome, and...

2. Whatever happened to that all-consuming cement plant you had? I can't remember the name, but you tore apart a Blue-Star Ready Mix plant for it and decided to place your monster of a cement plant where your steel mill was supposed to be on your previous layout.
 
CNWman said:
Those are some very nice plans Trucklover! However, do you only plan on running a few at a time, or are these all going to become some sort of portable layout? If the latter, you may want to think about modules that have curves or turntables. That's just IMO, though. Also, two other things:

1. Are your previous modules going to be involved? You Magic Pan Bakeries one was really awesome, and...

2. Whatever happened to that all-consuming cement plant you had? I can't remember the name, but you tore apart a Blue-Star Ready Mix plant for it and decided to place your monster of a cement plant where your steel mill was supposed to be on your previous layout.
Click to expand...

Ill prolly only have a max of 4 modules hooked up to one another at a time, these are just for switching fun and the joy of building them :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

If and when I ever set them up in a square/circle i will need to build some corner ones but im not concerned with that right now :thumb:

My previos Modules wont be involed in these, those will be seperate. I might be able to connect my Magic Pan Bakery Module (which by the way IS STILL NOT DONE wall1 sign1) but I would have to make a seprate siding track branching off one of the new modules to connect to it. My photo Diroama and CAT Rental Building Modules will also be sepreate and not connect to these either.

About my GIANT Cement plant. I still have everything that made it when it was on my old layout, its just sitting waiting to be used and bashed into my new layout (when ever it may be started, like i said, looking more and more like it will have to wait till i move out and get my own place). I was going to use those buildings on one of these modules but I want to save it all because I want these modules to be perminant and i dont want to have to take them apart for my new layout that I will be doing. These modules are ALOT of the stuff that I couldnt fit on my new layout plan. :thumb: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 
TruckLover said:
About my GIANT Cement plant. I still have everything that made it when it was on my old layout, its just sitting waiting to be used and bashed into my new layout.
Click to expand...
At least it still has potential!:mrgreen:

TruckLover said:
I was going to use those buildings on one of these modules but I want to save it all because I want these modules to be permament and i dont want to have to take them apart for my new layout that I will be doing. These modules are ALOT of the stuff that I couldnt fit on my new layout plan. :thumb: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

I think I suggested this idea to you back in one of your other "new layout" threads, but I may be thinking of what I plan to do later on with a large layout. Anyways, I believe the idea here is for a "semi-permament" layout, and best fits your needs. One problem I see here is that all your modules have at least one spot where your trains could potentialy fly off the tracks, potentially heavily damageing/destroying the involved engines and stock.
 
CNWman said:
I think I suggested this idea to you back in one of your other "new layout" threads, but I may be thinking of what I plan to do later on with a large layout. Anyways, I believe the idea here is for a "semi-permament" layout, and best fits your needs. One problem I see here is that all your modules have at least one spot where your trains could potentialy fly off the tracks, potentially heavily damageing/destroying the involved engines and stock.
Click to expand...

You have a point CNW. Thats something that I will have to be extra careful with :rolleyes: :thumb:
 
CWNman is right. Two inches to the edge of destruction is probably a bit close. The layout plans seem to be as tight as possible to leave room for the model sites. Perhaps a clear plastic screen alon the front can keep valuable locos and rolling stock from taking a plunge.

-David
 
stdguage said:
CWNman is right. Two inches to the edge of destruction is probably a bit close. The layout plans seem to be as tight as possible to leave room for the model sites. Perhaps a clear plastic screen alon the front can keep valuable locos and rolling stock from taking a plunge.

-David
Click to expand...

Thanks David :mrgreen:

I appreciate the concerns. I think I might take that advise and put the clear plastic up on the modules. Well have to see how it looks, I can get plex-glass from my work too :thumb: :mrgreen:

Maybe make them re-moveable so that I can keep them on durring operations and re-move them when Im takeing pictures :cool: :mrgreen:
 
At www.hotrak.ca we run the "front" mainline 2" or so from the edge of a "standard" module. The spec's call for a plexiglas strip to 1) keep the trains from taking the express route to the floor, and 2) to keep little hands away when kids visit. ;) :D

Andrew
 
MasonJar said:
At www.hotrak.ca we run the "front" mainline 2" or so from the edge of a "standard" module. The spec's call for a plexiglas strip to 1) keep the trains from taking the express route to the floor, and 2) to keep little hands away when kids visit. ;) :D

Andrew
Click to expand...


heheheheehehe Thanks Andrew. The NMRA says that the tracks should be 4 1/2" from the edge correct? Thats just to much for me lol.

And although I wont have problems with the little hands I could potentially have some disasters from trains "taking the express rout to the floor" :eek: :rolleyes: wall1 so in that case im i will be adding a plexiglass strip.

I dont need to make it very high since all it will do is keep the train from falling, maybe a 5-6" strip?
 
Check with the standards at the HOTrak site... they are "time tested" and work well. I think the plexi is a 6" strip, extending 4" above the frame, with 2" reserved for actually attaching it.

Andrew
 
MasonJar said:
Check with the standards at the HOTrak site... they are "time tested" and work well. I think the plexi is a 6" strip, extending 4" above the frame, with 2" reserved for actually attaching it.

Andrew
Click to expand...

Thanks Andrew :thumb: :mrgreen:

Im going to make mine velcrow (or how ever you spell that word :eek: hahahha) so that there re-movable when takeing pics and working on them. :mrgreen:
 
TruckLover said:
Thanks Andrew :thumb: :mrgreen:

Im going to make mine velcrow (or how ever you spell that word :eek: hahahha) so that there re-movable when takeing pics and working on them. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Velcro? As quick and painless as that would probably be, and unless you have straps holding the sheet on, I'd say that the weight of the plexiglass would be stronger than the grip of velcro. I drilled holes in my benchwork to hold my glass on with nuts, bolts and washers, and the whole assembly can be taken apart in or around 5 minutes. For your modules, plexiglass seems a good choice for block potential plunges off the tracks. I'd recomend, however, that if you do end up using nuts or bolts of some kind, that you make the cuts in your modules the exact same on both ends. that way you won't need to make a minimum of 10 different sheets or something.
 
CNWman said:
Velcro? As quick and painless as that would probably be, and unless you have straps holding the sheet on, I'd say that the weight of the plexiglass would be stronger than the grip of velcro. I drilled holes in my benchwork to hold my glass on with nuts, bolts and washers, and the whole assembly can be taken apart in or around 5 minutes. For your modules, plexiglass seems a good choice for block potential plunges off the tracks. I'd recomend, however, that if you do end up using nuts or bolts of some kind, that you make the cuts in your modules the exact same on both ends. that way you won't need to make a minimum of 10 different sheets or something.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea to use nuts and bolts but i think im still going to use the velcro method. I went to the link Andrew gave me and looked at there standards for plexiglass and they said a minium of 2 1/2" above the top of the rail and a 2" strip to fasten it to the velcro on the front of the module giveing the total minium of 4 1/2". I think ill use an even 5" giveing me a 3" strip for the trains to "catch" on if theres a derailment. I dont need much, just something thats there to keep them from falling off.

And the reason I prefer velcro is I want to be able to just take it off and put it back on without haveing to unscrew or screw on something to fasten it. If I were to have like a 12" piece of plexiglass I would have to use some nuts and bolts unless I put a strip of velcro across the whole module lol
 
The velco is to attach a skirt to the module to give it a more finished appearance when we're "out in public". The usual method of attaching the plxiglas is nut/machine screw with cup washer to distribute the stress. If you used a wingnut instead of a standard hex, you'd be able to install/remove the plexiglas easily. There are only a 1/2 dozen bolts per 4 foot module.

Andrew
 
Hello Josh M. You might have a bit of a problem gluing velcro to the Plexiglas. And, if you do succeed, Plexiglas has a bit of weight to it and will not be vertically stable against the side of the module.

You can get away with a 3" or 4" strip of 3/16" thick Plexiglas with 2" below the module edge and 1" or 2" above the module edge - depending on whether your modules will be out for public display or not.

Fastening the Plexiglas to the side of the module is a piece of cake with some 1/2" flat-head screws and offset washers. These are cup-like washers whereby a flat-head screw hides nicely into the cup so that the washer and screw-head are about 1/8" off of the top of the Plexiglas. On a 4' module, you will need about 8 screws - 2 on each end and 4 about every foot or so, alternating about 1" from the top edge of the module and 1" from the bottom edge of the Plexiglas. The Plexiglas protects your layout from damage, even as you move the modules around.

Removing the screws for photo shoots or work is a snap with a cordless drill and a drill bit. Use square-head Robertson screws, rather than Phillips-head or slot-head screws.

Bob M.
 
MasonJar said:
The velco is to attach a skirt to the module to give it a more finished appearance when we're "out in public". The usual method of attaching the plxiglas is nut/machine screw with cup washer to distribute the stress. If you used a wingnut instead of a standard hex, you'd be able to install/remove the plexiglas easily. There are only a 1/2 dozen bolts per 4 foot module.

Andrew
Click to expand...

railwaybob said:
Hello Josh M. You might have a bit of a problem gluing velcro to the Plexiglas. And, if you do succeed, Plexiglas has a bit of weight to it and will not be vertically stable against the side of the module.

You can get away with a 3" or 4" strip of 3/16" thick Plexiglas with 2" below the module edge and 1" or 2" above the module edge - depending on whether your modules will be out for public display or not.

Fastening the Plexiglas to the side of the module is a piece of cake with some 1/2" flat-head screws and offset washers. These are cup-like washers whereby a flat-head screw hides nicely into the cup so that the washer and screw-head are about 1/8" off of the top of the Plexiglas. On a 4' module, you will need about 8 screws - 2 on each end and 4 about every foot or so, alternating about 1" from the top edge of the module and 1" from the bottom edge of the Plexiglas. The Plexiglas protects your layout from damage, even as you move the modules around.

Removing the screws for photo shoots or work is a snap with a cordless drill and a drill bit. Use square-head Robertson screws, rather than Phillips-head or slot-head screws.

Bob M.
Click to expand...

Thanks Andrew and Bob

I must have miss-read the standards where it talked about the plexiglass lol

I like the offseyt washer idea Bob, Im thinking that would be best. I do also like the idea of the wingnut too. Both sound pretty easy to do. Thansk for all the info guys :thumb: :mrgreen:
 
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