Entering the world of DCC

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MasonJar

It's not rocket surgery
Oct 31, 2002
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Ottawa, Canada
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Well, I finally did it! I have decided to order a Digitrax Zephyr! I will be "decodering" two locos to start (all that I have, really) a P2K 0-6-0 and a Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 (on order shortly!).

I will keep the DC power pack to run the older IHC open frame motor locos that are (apparently) harder to convert to DCC.

Any comments or suggestions to this DCC newbie would be appreciated... :)

Thanks.

Andrew
 
Andrew:
1) you can also use the old PP to power switch machines and lights.
2) You should have no problems converting old open frame motors as long as you can isolate both motor brushes from the loco frame. It may require a bit of soldering rather than plugging in. Your LHS should be able to provide a decoder that will handle your motors -- get a 1 amp output.
 
Spitfire is telling it like it is ! When I got my Zepher, I rushed it and started customizing the CV's that I really did not need to be messing with at that time.... the good news is that I finally got them straightened out.

ENJOY YOUR DCC EXPERIENCE, MY FRIEND.
 
Tileguy,

The thing that really got me interested in DCC was/is a sound equipped Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 that a friend (railwaybob here at The Gauge) let me run at one of the first modular club meets I attended. My enthusiasm was only slightly dampened when I found out that the decoder costs more than the loco :( But it is still on my wish list ;)

Andrew
 
Andrew, it comes from experience. I was operating a friend's layout and asked him if the light was supposed to show through the top of the smokebox. I think he's now looking for a feedwater heater casting. :cry:
 
Hi Pete...

I did read about the jump feature, and I will definitely use it when running more than one decoder equipped loco.

What I read about some older IHC locos that use the frame to conduct current has me a bit worried about converting. I intend to do a bit of wiring on the layout so that I can flip back and forth from DCC to DC, as in addition to the older INC locos I also have an old Mehano. The Mehano might be easier to convert (I have already added pick-ups to the tender) but I have not made up my mind yet.

Andrew
 
Had this problem on my P2K SW1200 even before adding decoder and LED. Solution is to glue a little tinfoil on the inside of the shell.

Val


60103 said:
Andrew, it comes from experience. I was operating a friend's layout and asked him if the light was supposed to show through the top of the smokebox. I think he's now looking for a feedwater heater casting. :cry:
Click to expand...
 
If you are truly worried about those older Loco's perhaps if you do not have too many of them you could remotor them with Can motors over time as well?

I plan to do this with all my athearn locos to make it easier to isolate the motor and provide a better solder connection to the motor.
 
To isolate the Athearn motor from the frame, put the bottom clip that has the two frame grounding tangs on top, and the smooth clip on the bottom. Solder wires to both brush clips, and then mount the motor on either double sided foam tape or silicone to insulate it from the frame. Without the tangs on the bottom, you may even be able to use the stock Athearn mounts and have it isolated.
 
Russ,

Thanks for the tips, but it is an IHC loco ;) It will be difficult to isolate since there is not a lot of extra room in the cavity inside the cast boiler. It may be possible, but I don't know if I will do it anyway...

Chessie - I thought about that, but as I said to Russ above, there is not much room in there... The open frame motor is kind of noisy, but is remarkably smooth, and pulls really well considering it is probably older than I am...

Thanks again everyone for all the tips.

Andrew
 
My advice would be to go with Lenz , but since you are getting Digitrax my second suggestion would be that whatever system you buy , buy a top of the line or near top of the line as it will only be a short time and you will want to upgrade any low end system.
This theory is alot like buying a radio for an RC aircraft . I went through many untill I was happy and had to pay more every time instead of once.

Have Fun with DCC!
Mike

:wave: :wave: :wave:
 
Many people seem to be afraid to tamper with CV settings. How come? Can't you reset your decoders by entering a value of 8 in CV #8? The decoder should then reset to factory specifications as it was when you got it.
And what about lights? Can't you dim your lights to prevent plastic from melting?

Regards,
Art
http://www.mrsonline.net/
 
Salut MasonJar. Glad to hear you enjoyed yourself with that Bachmann 2-8-0. However, it needs a checkup. My recommendation would be to go with the "Club Guru" as he does a beautiful job for basically the cost of the decoder. I just had him install 3 decoder in 3 Athearn AC4400s.

Hi 60103. If you visit most websites or list groups, you'll find advice on how to install resistors between the decoder and the lights. Even 12v g-o-w bulbs should have resistors to protect them from the surge of current when the lights are first switched on.

Be careful if you're installing decoders that have plug-n-play PC boards with the 8-pin NMRA plug. If you hard-wire a decoder in, you may blow the decoder as Pins 3 and 7 of the NMRA plug are usually connected together.

MasonJar, if your budget can afford it, go for the highest level you can afford. I went from the DB150 Empire Builder to the DCS100. I should have gone right to the DCS100.
 
im getting ready to get dcc my self and have heard that if your put a dc loco on a dcc track it will burn out the engine cuz dcc is a full 18 volts. it seems that some dcc systems have a setting for dc locos usually adresss 00 but just be warned masonjar you would wanna blow any engines up! (im not totally sure how acurate this info is so someone correct me if im wrong)

Have fun!
Chris
 
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