Well Done Vic, on you academy award! Nice little handy way of doing things! 
BTW....... What's Diosol?
BTW....... What's Diosol?
Diosol
- Thread starter Woodie
- Start date
Yep its the thinner for Floquil paint. I've never found a suitable substitute for it though. Somebody told me not too long ago that Napthalene would work but that some potent stuff....my poor brain is "foggy" enough
Thanks for the compliment Woodie!!!
Thanks for the compliment Woodie!!!
I have been thinning all brands of paint for years with VM&P naptha to airbrush with. I have never had any trouble. Now as for fogging my brain, that's a distinct possibility.
Thanks RB, I'll give it a try the next time I use some Floquil. For the most part I've changed over to Polly-Scale but there's still some colors that I have to use Floquil for.
I have never tried the Polly. I am curious as to how compatible using both on the same engine would be. It appears to me that when you make the switch to water based you would need to do it all at once. I have so many bottles of solvent based that I would hate to lose them all. Anybody used both on the same car/engine? I assume you would use solvent based first then water?
Randy
Randy
Hi Randy, I never tried mixing them up but I think that it would work OK provided you let the Floquil cure up real good so that all of the solvent is out of it. I tried the PollyScale and liked it so much that I just "bit the bullet" and stocked up.
If you try the Polly Scale use distilled water to thin it....the chemicals in tap water seem to react with it and make it gummy
Also I found that I still need to clean the airbrush with laquer thinner to get it good and clean.....denatured alcohol will work too but the thinnner seems to do a better job and a lot faster.
and stocked up. If you try the Polly Scale use distilled water to thin it....the chemicals in tap water seem to react with it and make it gummy
Also I found that I still need to clean the airbrush with laquer thinner to get it good and clean.....denatured alcohol will work too but the thinnner seems to do a better job and a lot faster.Thanks for the input Marty. The next time I need a color I am going to try the Polly. Now one more question, I seem to remember someone saying someplace that there were 2 different water based types. Maybe one was an acrylic or something?? Is there a Polly S that's different? Help me guys.
I've been using one over the other for years without a problem. As Vic says, though, just to be safe make sure the Floquil has cured completely (generally 2 - 7 days, depending on temps and humidity) before applying Polly over it.
[JFTR: there is a difference between "drying" time and "curing" time for solvent-based paints. There is also a difference for acrylics, but it is not as long as that for solvent-based.]
Another tip: windshield washer fluid works well to thin acrylics for airbrushing and cleanup.
[JFTR: there is a difference between "drying" time and "curing" time for solvent-based paints. There is also a difference for acrylics, but it is not as long as that for solvent-based.]
Another tip: windshield washer fluid works well to thin acrylics for airbrushing and cleanup.
Wow, a lot of good information. Windshield washer fluid? I believe you, the question in my mind is who figured that out? There has got to be a great invention/experimentation story behind that!
Now, that I am getting "Polly educated", which way do you suggest? Acrylic or latex?
Now, that I am getting "Polly educated", which way do you suggest? Acrylic or latex?
Randy, I don't know who thought up the ws-washer fluid idea, but it works. I'm fairly certain that whoever thought it up is a lot smarter than I, because it would never have occurred to me to try something like that 
About your question: there's really only one way you can go: acrylics. Floquil/Testors discontinued the Polly S line a few years back, and all you can get now is PollyScale acrylic. But here's another tip: most of the various brands of "craft" paints (available at Wal Mart, Michaels, etc.) are also acrylics, and many of them have shades that are exact (or nearly exact) matches for the colors in the PollyScale line. Look for brands such as Apple Barrel, Plaid, Delta Ceramcoat, and American Folkart. Most of them are very inexpensive, ranging from around $0.44 - $1.00 per bottle, and they can be brushed or airbrushed just like Polly.
I have found that the cheaper brands (Apple Barrel and Plaid, $.44 at Wal Mart) are good for brushing, but the more expensive brands (Ceramcoat, for example) have smaller pigments and are easier to airbrush smoothly.
They also can be thinned with distilled water or alcohol to the consistency of wood stain and then be used to stain stripwood. But that's a story for another time... (If you want to see the results of stripwood staining with thinned acrylics, look at the machine shop photos on my website; all of that wood was soaked with an acrylic stain.)
I forgot I can post a photo with this. I'll see if I have a machine shop pic that's small enough to post with this. If not, check the website.
About your question: there's really only one way you can go: acrylics. Floquil/Testors discontinued the Polly S line a few years back, and all you can get now is PollyScale acrylic. But here's another tip: most of the various brands of "craft" paints (available at Wal Mart, Michaels, etc.) are also acrylics, and many of them have shades that are exact (or nearly exact) matches for the colors in the PollyScale line. Look for brands such as Apple Barrel, Plaid, Delta Ceramcoat, and American Folkart. Most of them are very inexpensive, ranging from around $0.44 - $1.00 per bottle, and they can be brushed or airbrushed just like Polly.
I have found that the cheaper brands (Apple Barrel and Plaid, $.44 at Wal Mart) are good for brushing, but the more expensive brands (Ceramcoat, for example) have smaller pigments and are easier to airbrush smoothly.
They also can be thinned with distilled water or alcohol to the consistency of wood stain and then be used to stain stripwood. But that's a story for another time...
(If you want to see the results of stripwood staining with thinned acrylics, look at the machine shop photos on my website; all of that wood was soaked with an acrylic stain.)I forgot I can post a photo with this. I'll see if I have a machine shop pic that's small enough to post with this. If not, check the website.
Attachments
Wow Casey, what beautiful work! I am impressed! I also thank you for the course on acrylics. I have been driving 50 miles to a hobby shop for Floquil when I could have hit Wal-Mart. I have always used brake fluid to strip paint. What do you use to take the acrylics off?
I have never been able to get past painting and detailing engines. Just today I am cutting more plywood and getting ready to lay track for something better than my old "Plywood Pacific Lines". My wife thinks that at around 100 engines I have enough and it's time for her to see some "little trees". I suppose next she will want to see some buildings too.
I have never been able to get past painting and detailing engines. Just today I am cutting more plywood and getting ready to lay track for something better than my old "Plywood Pacific Lines". My wife thinks that at around 100 engines I have enough and it's time for her to see some "little trees". I suppose next she will want to see some buildings too.
Randy, I'm not sure what one might use to remove acrylics. To the best of my memory, I've never had a reason to remove paint from anything I've built.
I have used Bix Paint Stripper to remove dried acrylics from PollyScale jars (so that I could reuse the jars), but it still took quite a bit of Bix, time, and work. I don't know if Bix would attack styrene models or not. You'd have to experiment.
I have used Bix Paint Stripper to remove dried acrylics from PollyScale jars (so that I could reuse the jars), but it still took quite a bit of Bix, time, and work. I don't know if Bix would attack styrene models or not. You'd have to experiment.
If Bix is still available, it will be in the paint department at Home Depot/Lowes/Wal Mart, etc. The last time I bought a gallon of it was 20-25 years ago when I stripped an old chest for refinishing. I still have about a quart of it left, and it seems to be pretty potent stuff even after all these years.
The main thing I always liked about it is that it is water-soluable. After it's finished peeling/stripping the paint, you just flush it with water or wipe it away with damp towels.
The main thing I always liked about it is that it is water-soluable. After it's finished peeling/stripping the paint, you just flush it with water or wipe it away with damp towels.
Randy,
I have used ELO (easy lift off) by Poly-Scale? to remove paint.
I think Poly-Scale makes ELO, I at work, I don't remember so I can't get the can I have.
I messed-up a engine shell that was painted with Poly-Scale and the ELO took it right off. I did put a thick coating on the shell then put it in a zip-lock plastic bag and let it "soak" for about 30 min's.
I did use a old toothbrush too scrub off some spots.
I have used brake fluid 1 time and it attacked the plastic shell.
The shell was like rubber.
So, I use ELO without problems now.
I just try to purchase Undec.
Marty
I have used ELO (easy lift off) by Poly-Scale? to remove paint.
I think Poly-Scale makes ELO, I at work, I don't remember so I can't get the can I have.
I messed-up a engine shell that was painted with Poly-Scale and the ELO took it right off. I did put a thick coating on the shell then put it in a zip-lock plastic bag and let it "soak" for about 30 min's.
I did use a old toothbrush too scrub off some spots.
I have used brake fluid 1 time and it attacked the plastic shell.
The shell was like rubber.
So, I use ELO without problems now.
I just try to purchase Undec.
Marty
Good call, Marty
Marty, yours is the better solution. I had completely forgotten about ELO. I think Walthers carries it in a couple of different sizes. I never bought it because I have all that Bix left over in the garage. I'm sure it's got to be safer to use than Bix.
Doesn't Floquil/Polly also make a plastic cleaner and paint prep solution? Or am I thinking of someone/thing else?
Marty, yours is the better solution. I had completely forgotten about ELO. I think Walthers carries it in a couple of different sizes. I never bought it because I have all that Bix left over in the garage. I'm sure it's got to be safer to use than Bix.
Doesn't Floquil/Polly also make a plastic cleaner and paint prep solution? Or am I thinking of someone/thing else?
Casey, you are correct Floquil/Polly Scale does make "Plastic Prep". Removes mold release, silicones,grease, etc.
I use Dawn dishwashing soap to clean before painting.
I also use it to remove the ELO.
Marty
I use Dawn dishwashing soap to clean before painting.
I also use it to remove the ELO.
Marty