cutting models

[paper hollywood]

Oh, I was kidding, really. Obviously one of those could be a good thing for you and I'd like to know more about how it works if you use it for card models. By machines that build a model completely, I meant the so-called 3D printers. You can now get them that will take a computer model and produce a complex, colored object, even with moving parts. Prices are dropping steadily for 3D printers, with the lowest full-fledged ones under $5K, I believe. I've no doubt in the next decade we'll see them not only cheaper, but better-- as was the case with paper printers. Eventually most model enthusiasts will have one and use it to quickly print everything from (completely finished) Cardassian cruisers to salt shakers.

 

[Zathros]

Oh, I was kidding, really. Obviously one of those could be a good thing for you and I'd like to know more about how it works if you use it for card models. By machines that build a model completely, I meant the so-called 3D printers. You can now get them that will take a computer model and produce a complex, colored object, even with moving parts. Prices are dropping steadily for 3D printers, with the lowest full-fledged ones under $5K, I believe. I've no doubt in the next decade we'll see them not only cheaper, but better-- as was the case with paper printers. Eventually most model enthusiasts will have one and use it to quickly print everything from (completely finished) Cardassian cruisers to salt shakers.

Oh I don't mind the ribbing. I have been cutting the parts for the Dornier DO24K I am making, what a lot of cutting, I've got about 5 hrs. so far!

The 3d printers are awesome. I did do some prototyping with those machines, still can't talk about it but it is incredible. Parts can be made from these things, not just prototypes. Embrace technology, because it is here and getting better, and the price really is dropping, big time!:thumb:

 

[Vince]

That machine looks really cool. I have arthritis too, most days OK, but some days I don't even feel like picking up scissors or a knife.

 

[Zathros]

It's really disgusting but illness over the last 3 months and one of my computers eating a 9 month old hard drive, I haven't even made a cut with this unit. I had to send the first one back as I could not calibrate it. They were extremely easy to deal with. I have rarely had such a nice and quick service response. Seagate was the same way. For $9.00 dollars, they would send me a hard drive before I sent mine in and I could use the package they sent me and return the defective hard drive with the postage prepaid. I just had to promise to do it within 21 days. Great deal! I have had good luck with Seagate, though a couple of years back they did have some problems. Hard drives are getting expensive because of the flooding in Indonesia which has damaged the factories. There is a hard drive shortage. This same drive is actually now costing $60 dollars more than when I purchased it the first time!?!

 

[Experimental Designs]

More often than not I'll cut on the line but in some very intricate parts I'll cut a little outside the line so it gives me a buffer zone in case I frak it up.

Cutting out parts to me is the most demanding part of any project as I'm sure it is for everyone else.

 

[mastrcontrol]

I imagine cutting a truly straight line might matter even more than position with regards to the line.

 

[THE DC]

It depends on the model.

Some are designed to use the lines in the finished product, others you have more freedom.

The DC

 

[Zathros]

These machines have a really sophisticated way following the line. The paper can be "off' quite a big, it will compensate. Really an amazing unit that I still have virtually not touched. I have build two new computers, so I'm getting closer.

 

[Wad_Cutter]

My Two Cents Worth

Speaking for myself, this hobby which thanks to a lot of you I have found extremely relaxing. I suffer from cluster migraines. I take a crap load of meds for it. The cutting really helps me to focus on something beyond the hurt. Then there is the wondering how in the hell am I going to build this thing. Then comes doing it. I think if you have the passion I do and because of a problem your having you can't do the cutting because of it. Then you have to find another way around it so you can get to doing the other parts of the model. The idea that a machine is going to build the models is out of the question. The idea that due to a physical problem is keeping for your hobby is equally out of the question. Ya got to do what ya got to do and not be judged. Being judged like that is also out of the question. If you have ability to cut the paper and you take the lazy way out who are you hurting? It sure ain't me. I know what your missing. Just my 2 cents worth..

 

[Paperbender]

us OLD newbees sometimes have trouble just seeing the line! Have to agree one answer wouldn't fit all, but sometimes the line sure shows up and spoils the look if you can't put it in the back.

 

[cptorres111071]

I am just getting started into papercraft and I am already looking at getting the Cameo. At least I can also say I'm getting it for my GF for scrap booking lol.

 

[Zathros]

I am just getting started into papercraft and I am already looking at getting the Cameo. At least I can also say I'm getting it for my GF for scrap booking lol.

I have a Cameo Silhouette. I really like their customer service. It took me a week to finally realize I had a defective machine. They replaced it no questions asked. To do a paper model, you have to outline the mode, and accurately, to make a cutting path. It is a lot of work. Well worth it though, but it really is a lot of work, a real lot of work, but well well worth it. Some people are selling their programs to models they did not design. I won't allow that on this forum though. I would like to see a Silhouette section, it more people got into it. would like to see a community of people doing this stuff for free. I start seeing people sell model outlines programs, and I will start offering the same model outline free. I find bit bit a infringement here. Making a outline of something that one has not designed and then selling it it? There is a whole 'nother world of creativity, and a subsection on that really interests me.

 

[terrinecold]

I've been thinking about getting one too. It will probably have to wait until christmas though.

 

[Zathros]

I really need to try my again. It has been sitting still for almost a year! AArgh!

 

[a380]

wow cool machine! never heard of it till now. i looked up their website but couldn't find any info on how small or intricate the cuts can be. can this machine cut parts as small as 1/200 scale ship rallings? is the quality close to laser cuts? may be worth investing in that case.

 

[NobodyUknow]

I have a Silhouette SD right now, and intend to get a Silhouette Cameo in the next few weeks, and I can tell you with no reservations that it is an INCREDIBLE product.

The software takes a little getting used to, but if you can do work in GIMP/Photoshop, then the Silhouette Studio program isn't much of a learning curve. It's mostly little quirks that you have to just get used to doing it how it was set up.

As for the fineness of the cuts, it's intended for 80lb stock and under, but I have cut 110lb card stock many times in it, albeit at "10" blade length (on the adjustable blade), highest pressure setting (default for card stock anyway), and selecting 'double cut', which re-traces the paths it cuts to ensure they release completely.


The laying out of lines to cut can be tedious, no doubt about it, but being able to do things like tank tread links for instance is profoundly helpful with the Silhouette cutter. I merely need to trace one, and since they are all uniform, I can select, copy, and paste the pattern over the rest in a "row". Then since the rows are of course the same, I can copy/paste an entire page of cutting lines in a matter of minutes, print it out, and set the Silhouette to cutting.

In 5 minutes it can cut far more accurately, cleanly, and uniformly than I ever could in hours, and the project is easily saved in case I need to do a reprint and replace a botched part or just do a project another time. The time used in outlining projects or tracing a cutting path is more than saved in hand-cutting each tiny piece of some projects and of course the lack of hand cramps are a welcomed benefit.




If you're averse to doing a little tedious work on some tracing, then you've likely chosen the wrong hobby to begin with... Paper modeling isn't likely to be on ESPN anytime soon after all.




I can't begin to praise the Silhouette cutter enough, and while I'm not going to retire my Silhouette SD cutter anytime soon, I definitely want the Cameo for its 12" x 12" cutting area (it can also cut up to 12x24). The smaller Silhouette SD cutter is somewhat limited in width at a bit less than a standard 8.5" Letter-size paper width, so some projects may have to be confined by those limitations, where as the Cameo can readily cut A3 size paper (11.69 × 16.54) if you have the right mat and settings (they offer a 12"x24" cutting mat).



Either model is definitely an investment, and not for everyone, but for cutting repetitive parts it's worth is beyond description. The machine never gets tired, and never gets impatient. If it does mess up, it's merely a reprint away from being fixed. Best of all, its speed even on the slowest setting (used for thick card stock) is still many many many times faster than any human could cut the things out with accuracy, especially on curved parts and interior corner or curved cuts that would be otherwise hard to do even with an exacto knife.

 

[tjbmurph]

I would have to agree, the model will dictate where you need to cut. (from the earlier part of this discussion)

 

[xBobble]

What's involved in setting up the cutting pattern for the Silhouette Cameo? Could you do something like manipulate an image in GIMP (or whatever) to get an outline of the pattern and convert it to Silhouette's language?

 

[NobodyUknow]

If you've ever used a plotter, you already know how, you are basically taking an image, and more or less "tracing" it on the path you want the plotter to follow.

the program you use to set that up is Silhouette Studio, and while at first the program is a little bit fiddly, it's quite functional and easy to use.

I typically take an image, or PDF, etc, and first make sure it's how I like it in Photoshop (but I'm confident other programs like GIMP work fine) and save it as any of the compatible file formats Silhouette Studio can load.

While silhouette studio doesn't have a default for it in the "load file" drop box, it can actually open photoshop project (.psd) files just fine, you simply have to browse all files when loading.


Setting the cutting path itself is easy as pie, but it can be tedious if it's a really complicated pattern, has lots of details, and/or has lots of differently shaped parts.

The incredible advantage in it however is that once you've got it set, you're good to go for as many cuts as you could ever need to do. Replacement parts or or simply multiplying your cutting/production speed is merely a click away.

I always use the "line trace" function, because while it will always be line segments, you can zoom in plenty close enough so that you can just click along the curves of the lines you want to cut, and presto, your line segments are now perfect curves that will always be more uniform and clean than any human could ever cut.

There is a "curve trace" function, and it's ok, but in my opinion it's more bothersome than helpful since it will "bow out" more or less depending on how you plot your next segment point, which I think is a bit too floppy and fiddly when you could just use the regular line trace and draw your path in segments you know for certain will be precisely where you want them every single time.



There are functions within the program to actually select the pattern, and trace it automatically with a cut path, however I have not been overly impressed with it, and the settings for those functions aren't overly intuitive...



My key piece of advise is to always do your print from Silhouette Studio after you've completed your cut-path, and always set it to "show registration marks", so when it does print, it will pre-print the registration marks on the project for the Silhouette to locate, and help to be much more accurate.

Those two steps alone have made my projects cut highly accurately, at most a tiny bit of follow-up clipping a part or two around the edge.

 

[micahrogers]

Okay then this beggs the $64 question. How much does one of these dream machines cost?