can anyone help...wilhelmshaven ships
- Thread starter ynot
- Start date
the paper seems thin for a card model have the parts got to be pasted onto stronger card? thanks tonyIf you contact Wilhelmshaven they will provide English instructions, if they exist.
As far as the card - I've build a few Wilhelmshaven models, including a couple ships, and have never had to glue anything to thicker card. Is it thicker than standard paper at least?
As far as the card - I've build a few Wilhelmshaven models, including a couple ships, and have never had to glue anything to thicker card. Is it thicker than standard paper at least?
C
cgutzmer
I scooted this over to the ships section 
I cant help too much as I have given up on every ship (except the cleopatra one that holds the oblelisk)
I would imagine the formers weold need to be mounted to heavier cardstock for sure. The best way to tell is to look for slots on pieces that they look like they will slot together with.... that will be the thickness you want. Go barely thinner than that. barely....
After you determine that... usually everything that needs to be glued to thicker stock will have the same symbol or number color next to it. Then you know what else needs to be mounted that way.
Hope it helps....
Chris
I cant help too much as I have given up on every ship (except the cleopatra one that holds the oblelisk)
I would imagine the formers weold need to be mounted to heavier cardstock for sure. The best way to tell is to look for slots on pieces that they look like they will slot together with.... that will be the thickness you want. Go barely thinner than that. barely....
After you determine that... usually everything that needs to be glued to thicker stock will have the same symbol or number color next to it. Then you know what else needs to be mounted that way.
Hope it helps....
Chris
cardstock
Standard sizes
ship frames and decks 1 mm cardstock (if you do not have 1 mm laminate what you have got to the right thickness.)
It is probably coded with"*" on the 160gsm bits
** double up
*** treble up
hope this helps
barry
Standard sizes
ship frames and decks 1 mm cardstock (if you do not have 1 mm laminate what you have got to the right thickness.)
It is probably coded with"*" on the 160gsm bits
** double up
*** treble up
hope this helps
barry
Hi, Tony!
You might want to contact WHV and ask if they have English translations of the instructions for your models. Their email address is:
bestell@papermod.de
You probably should also take a look at the build thread at Kartonbau, our German sister forum. I found at least two construction threads with loads of photos which you would probably find helpful:
Kartonbau.de | abgeschlossene Bauberichte | 1. JSP Torpedoboot Jaguar/ WHV/ 1:250 (FERTIG)
Kartonbau.de | Bauberichte | Torpedoboot "Jaguar" der "Raubtier"-Klasse / WHV / 1:200
Not sure about your other model, I didn't find a thread for the "t1".
But, between the two Jaguar threads noted above you should be able to tell whether the formers used laminate card as suggest by Barry, or whether, as they sometimes do, are straight card stock formers...but they use a lot of formers to provide strength to the structure. Take a look at some of the photos on those two links; the builders sometimes use paint bottles to help add some weight to the model while the glue dries to keep the decks straight...and that's a pretty sturdy structure to support that weight, keeping in mind this is all card stock.
I hope some of this helps. Let us know if WHV replies to your request for English translations. Most of all, I hope you enjoy building your models and will share photos of your build with us.
Cheers!
Jim
You might want to contact WHV and ask if they have English translations of the instructions for your models. Their email address is:
bestell@papermod.de
You probably should also take a look at the build thread at Kartonbau, our German sister forum. I found at least two construction threads with loads of photos which you would probably find helpful:
Kartonbau.de | abgeschlossene Bauberichte | 1. JSP Torpedoboot Jaguar/ WHV/ 1:250 (FERTIG)
Kartonbau.de | Bauberichte | Torpedoboot "Jaguar" der "Raubtier"-Klasse / WHV / 1:200
Not sure about your other model, I didn't find a thread for the "t1".
But, between the two Jaguar threads noted above you should be able to tell whether the formers used laminate card as suggest by Barry, or whether, as they sometimes do, are straight card stock formers...but they use a lot of formers to provide strength to the structure. Take a look at some of the photos on those two links; the builders sometimes use paint bottles to help add some weight to the model while the glue dries to keep the decks straight...and that's a pretty sturdy structure to support that weight, keeping in mind this is all card stock.
I hope some of this helps. Let us know if WHV replies to your request for English translations. Most of all, I hope you enjoy building your models and will share photos of your build with us.
Cheers!
Jim
In high school I built 2/3 of one of the Wilhelmshaven aircraft carriers. I used only the formers in thickness they came printed on. The ship was very sturdy, had a working elevator - and was over a meter long. I'm doing the Lutjens now - it's about 2' long - and same thing, just the stock former thickness and it's sturdy enough. I couldn't stand on it or anything - but it'll easily hold up my glue bottles and probably more weight.
I'm also building this ship from only diagrams (not sure what German instructions exist, but no English ones). It's not too difficult, although there are some things I have to study a bit and have had to guess how one or 2 things should go - but none of it is going to affect the overall appearance of the model.
I'm also building this ship from only diagrams (not sure what German instructions exist, but no English ones). It's not too difficult, although there are some things I have to study a bit and have had to guess how one or 2 things should go - but none of it is going to affect the overall appearance of the model.
Wilhelmshavener models rarely use additional thickness for their parts. When they do, look for a word with "doppel" in it where the part number is referenced in the instructions. I know that the kits obtained from PMI include an English sheet of general instructions that includes this and other tips. As noted previously, even the large kits (carrier and United States) are quite robust after assembly, even with the single card thickness framework.
The rules described by Barry may be standards for Polish ship models but they do NOT APPLY for the 1/250 scale "Wilhelmshavener" (or "Jade" or "Lehrmittelinstitut") ship models. The latter are designed to be built without laminating baseplates, bulkheads, and decks. Sounds flimsy but is actually adequate.
Parts which are supposed to be doubled or tripled are usually printed inside one half of a doubling-"box". You cut out the whole box, fold in the middle, glue the halfs back to back, and then cut out the parts - now double strength. Don't know what I am talking about? Don't worry you'll understand when you see one.
If you find written German instructions look for the phrase "auf Abfallkarton verdoppeln" (= laminate to scrap card) indicating the rare occasion where laminating is recommended.
As a kid I built a couple of Wilhelmshavener ships, always according to the instructions, and they all turned out OK. Nowadays, suffering from advanced modelers syndrome, I would double the decks to reduce the risk of sagging. Of course this would require to shave about 0.2mm off the top of all supporting bulkheads to compensate for the increased thickness of the decks.
Bernard....thanks for that german phrase "laminate to scrap card",I know now what to look for and build the model using the jaguar link on the kartonbau site........rest of you guys have been very helpful and i`m becoming a convert from the plastics.............tony