Building my own x-wing

[Zathros]

There is only a loss if there is an attempt re-splice them There are amplifiers to boost the signal. Using short 1/8th long pieces would have no light loss, especially if you polished the ends. I was an electronic technician for many years. My data could be dated as technology changes. The return losses on some splices can reach 30 to 40 db. There are manynew standards which have nothing to do with what we are talking about. My point was that by manipulation of the light receiving ends, you could have lights of different intensities, which would add some realism. Even using a Sharpie could reduce intensity and color.

I am not an engineer but have had to work with these devices, more in their infancy. That I offer suggestions that's all. Mercedes Benz was using Fiber Optics to light their dashboards in 1972, so there is nothing new here. That doesn't mean it isn't "neat and cool" looking though.

 

[dnalor]

here at my job are a lot of fiber engineer running around..i thought that i found another one at the other side of the world

Your idea with putting the led under the dashboard is one of my last idea's
because i'm afraid it will lid up the whole cockpit i that i don't want.

 

[dnalor]

The hull is complete upper and lower half.

The lower back was difficult it gaps a little...but looks good enough for me.
I need to fix the back panels so they line up..but nothing serious.

 

[Zathros]

That was why I thought you might consider making it modular. If it were thick, the light could could be housed such that no light escapes and the short Fiber lengths could be manipulated into giving different levels of light. If you draw a flat picture of the cockpit I'll make you a 3D drawing of what I am trying and failing to explain. Or, just do it like you were going to, as it will still end up excellent.

 

[dnalor]

Ok the cockpit is fiber-ready...i think..
Now the led compartment in the back

And i want to try to split up some of the fibers to let them shine only one color.

 

[dnalor]

The fiber-cockpit fits J
But I can install it only one time..
When I remove and insert the cockpit to often I think the fibers will break.
So now I have to wait until I know what to do with the Leds
And I need to make an Fiber-R2.. would be fun..
I also wanted to make a rotating head but I don’t know if I know how to build/program the stepping motor.

And I’m still thinking about An Arduino for steering the Leds and maybe the R2-head motor.

The first pic is a test fit for the droidplate.
And the last picture I have done something wrong there is a little mis-aligned that I need to fix

 

[F131]

This model just keeps getting more impressive.

 

[Zathros]

In stead of a stepping motor, use a motor with a cam. You can change not only it's left to right view, you could, if planned out right, include an up and down movement.

I have attached what I tried to explain about Fiber Optics. If you cut them very short, just enough to fit through the panels, you could insert LED's where ever you wanted. In this case, behind the colored parts which simulate panel lights, in this hurriedly drawn panel. After placement, you could cover the backsides with whatever worked, boxes, black silicone, with whatever works. This would alleviate problems with long fibers breaking and make for an overall more compact design. This is just an idea, not a criticism, your model looks great!! If you want a more detailed drawing, I could make one for you, but I think you know what I mean.

 

[dnalor]

I understand you. about the fibers.
This is how i learned how to do the fibers
http://www.therpf.com/f10/salzo-v3-x-wing-build-45630/

maybe your idea was easier....but now it ready...i think it works....
and when not, then there will be a cockpit no:03

i'm starting to get good with cockpits

And the r2 cam...

thats fun..a x-wing spycam

 

[dnalor]

1 R2 with lighting..
i attached the legs..and when everything is dryed i cut the fibers

this R2 looks better then the first one

 

[Zathros]

I'd love to see some more pics of your R2D2. You're one busy guy!

 

[dnalor]

ok some more pictures.

With the lights on...but the led isn't perfect aligned with the fiber..
that's the reason the lights are a little dim ( i think)

 

[anthony344]

Wow that R2D2 is totally alive. great job:thumb: with the fibre optic i wish i can proceed to the next level with lighting. i'll mess the lighting setting up with that fibre.

 

[dnalor]

i'm just a starting papercraft builder who wants to much.
So i try...somethimes it works.....more often it doesn't. :-D
i always wanted a captain cardboard x wing...but it was to expensive..and to hard to build for me
Now i get the next best x wing..the Imcold x wing.
But i want them to be the same greatness..or at least i try to..
And every CC x-wing i see has lighting...so i want it too

And then i try..

ah these are my wings i want to fly with...
Now the engines...

 

[Zathros]

That ship is huge!! You may have to register that, and pay tax on it!! I didn't realize you were going so big! Incredible! :thumb:






.

 

[dnalor]

I know yoda told size doesn't matter......
But i like it big :-D

Today i ordered my Arduino...
I hope i can program it for the leds.

Installed the droidplate and made the R2 fit..
little customized the R2

Tried to hotglue the leds on the fibers and that works, so when i install the leds with the fibers i can hotglue them. and then wrap some black tape over it for tampering the shine of the leds totthe outside.

 

[Zathros]

That's a nice circuit board. When our done, buy a can of sealer and spray the board. This will make it last lot longer and prevent any corrosion.

 

[dnalor]

ok...
it has to last a xwing life time

 

[anthony344]

That looks totally cool , & R2D2 he is like if you move me i'll zap you.

Most circuit board are already protected when you purchase from the market. What they do first is they tin the hole circuit board first , then after they coated with a UV solution protector. If it's double sided they pop rivet both sides of the track first , then sliver tin , then UV protector. but if you spray it with circuit board sealer i would take out that ATmega IC chip out first before spraying it. Use a IC remover tool. & also have static free wrist band before handling that IC chip they are very fragile with static, the other components don't matter if you spray it. when putting the IC back into the socket the IC has a notch only on one side make sure the notch is the same way as the one on the socket or the white printed outline of the socket. but if it is a SMD ATmega IC or other SMD IC i would not recommend spraying the board. I've done in the past with project with AT mega , 74LS chips so on & so on , they are sometime pain to program if not done right or they did not handle the IC very well which leads to failure in programing them or faulty IC. but very uncommon these thing happen.

Over all with that Arduino you can do alot of things with that & they are simple to program when you use there software even with lights , LCD display & alot more. Great choice you pick.:thumb:

 

[dnalor]

the belly is fixed at the nose cone..
somehow i had a big gap...now it's better.....
and loading doors attached.