Blackadder's Scratchbuilt Thunderhawk Redux
- Thread starter Blackadder
- Start date
Thank you, BTW I'd be happy to answer questions on details any reader has on my construction methods....
Louvers:
The Interminable Thunderhawk Vents
The tedium of making the louver grills is wore me down and I needed the Reaver diversion to keep intact what little sanity is left to me.
These Louvers are pretty straightforward constructions but the spacing and angle of the slats is time consuming as each has to be relatively dry before gluing the next slat.
I don't install the center divider until the slats are done and then I cut the center channel for the divider strip. That way it keeps the left and right slats lined up with each other.
Slats are done.
Louvers:
The Interminable Thunderhawk Vents
The tedium of making the louver grills is wore me down and I needed the Reaver diversion to keep intact what little sanity is left to me.
These Louvers are pretty straightforward constructions but the spacing and angle of the slats is time consuming as each has to be relatively dry before gluing the next slat.
I don't install the center divider until the slats are done and then I cut the center channel for the divider strip. That way it keeps the left and right slats lined up with each other.
Slats are done.
Vents Finally Done
After a week of knee surgery convalescence I finally got my groove back and finished the vent slats. Not up to my usual standard but they are in a position that I can readily replace them if I get ambitious.
The main gun superstructure should go together quickly now that these labor intense objects are completed.
If there is a roundabout way to do things leave it to the Blackadder to pursue that course.
The superstructure seems a straightforward trapezoidal structure with nothing out of the ordinary to complicate building it until I decided the perpendicular sides should cant in a few degrees at the top and the three armour plates on either side likewise. This adds a taper to the structure's sides much as the columns curve slightly on the Parthenon to give a better illusion of straightness. Were the sides perfectly perpendicular they would appear to flair at the top.
I also changed the angle of the rear vent panel because my T'hawk is much longer than the original and therefore can be more streamline...... (? Really, Streamline?)
The overall effect is longer, lower and wider than the FW model and even the 3D rendering is slightly blockier.
I hope I don't come to regret these departures.........
After a week of knee surgery convalescence I finally got my groove back and finished the vent slats. Not up to my usual standard but they are in a position that I can readily replace them if I get ambitious.
The main gun superstructure should go together quickly now that these labor intense objects are completed.
If there is a roundabout way to do things leave it to the Blackadder to pursue that course.
The superstructure seems a straightforward trapezoidal structure with nothing out of the ordinary to complicate building it until I decided the perpendicular sides should cant in a few degrees at the top and the three armour plates on either side likewise. This adds a taper to the structure's sides much as the columns curve slightly on the Parthenon to give a better illusion of straightness. Were the sides perfectly perpendicular they would appear to flair at the top.
I also changed the angle of the rear vent panel because my T'hawk is much longer than the original and therefore can be more streamline...... (? Really, Streamline?)
The overall effect is longer, lower and wider than the FW model and even the 3D rendering is slightly blockier.
I hope I don't come to regret these departures.........
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This is FIRST CLASS WORK!!!
The work, effort, and energy that you are putting into this projects is AMAZING!!!
I have thought about trying my hand at this medium to see if I could build a Thunder Fighter or Viper. This thread is inspiring me.
The work, effort, and energy that you are putting into this projects is AMAZING!!!
I have thought about trying my hand at this medium to see if I could build a Thunder Fighter or Viper. This thread is inspiring me.
Thanks,
Simple Trunnion Mount for Cannon
For those of us with childish bents that have to have moving parts on their models a simple trunnion mount for the main cannon on the T'hawk.
Starting with a reinforced 7/16 tube with an 3/8 tube sleeve inserted for strength I bored a 3/16th diameter hole through the exact dead center of the tube to mount the barrel core.
Using 2 x 6 mm scrap strips for the trunnion mounts in the superstructure clamped in place with clothes pins overnight gave me a strong base to mount the trunnions.
With the barrel mount trunnions in place in the slot I'm ready to seal the forward end of the mount to capture the elevation assembly for a simple and effective cannon mount elevation system.
......... Jeez Blackadder that main cannon looks awfully tiny?
Simple Trunnion Mount for Cannon
For those of us with childish bents that have to have moving parts on their models a simple trunnion mount for the main cannon on the T'hawk.
Starting with a reinforced 7/16 tube with an 3/8 tube sleeve inserted for strength I bored a 3/16th diameter hole through the exact dead center of the tube to mount the barrel core.
Using 2 x 6 mm scrap strips for the trunnion mounts in the superstructure clamped in place with clothes pins overnight gave me a strong base to mount the trunnions.
With the barrel mount trunnions in place in the slot I'm ready to seal the forward end of the mount to capture the elevation assembly for a simple and effective cannon mount elevation system.
......... Jeez Blackadder that main cannon looks awfully tiny?
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Sometimes comments are made in earnest, without the basis of forethought. In any event, OUCH on the knee surgery!! Better you than me!! I hope you recover well, and get back up on your feet as well, or better than before. 
Green Stuff, Certainly Not!
When I make a bad seam as I have just done I feel its important to demonstrate how I remedy the mistake.
Now Green Stuff I understand is unreasonable costly and I have never purchased a tube and styrene is readily repairable; first I clean the bad seam so an inlay can be inserted:
I then take a wisp of scrap styrene (Sorry for the blurred image) and slide it into the seam:
Apply a drop of liquid styrene cement (I use Ambroid ProWeld Thin Cement) and allow to dry for a minute.
File off the excess and you're done:
When I make a bad seam as I have just done I feel its important to demonstrate how I remedy the mistake.
Now Green Stuff I understand is unreasonable costly and I have never purchased a tube and styrene is readily repairable; first I clean the bad seam so an inlay can be inserted:
I then take a wisp of scrap styrene (Sorry for the blurred image) and slide it into the seam:
Apply a drop of liquid styrene cement (I use Ambroid ProWeld Thin Cement) and allow to dry for a minute.
File off the excess and you're done:
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Excellent tips! This thread is now a "Sticky", too much info here to get lost in all the posts, so it will always remain on top. I am honestly running out of words for admiration of your work, I feel I am being redundant, but damned, this looks fantastic!!
Wow that's quite an honor, thanks Zathros, I'll try to live up to it.........
I've had a lot of spring work to do outside and much as I hate to leave my workbench some of these chores needed addressing.
.............................
The Main gun superstructure was surprisingly easy to build considering how much I put off building it......... Jeez Blackadder that main cannon looks awfully tiny?
Right now the above wing armour is sketched in which should give a bit of a boost to the verisimilitude of the project.
I've had a lot of spring work to do outside and much as I hate to leave my workbench some of these chores needed addressing.
.............................
The Main gun superstructure was surprisingly easy to build considering how much I put off building it......... Jeez Blackadder that main cannon looks awfully tiny?
Right now the above wing armour is sketched in which should give a bit of a boost to the verisimilitude of the project.
Hull Armour
Heavier and Heavier, this model has slabs of simulated armour that causes serious doubt on the ability to actually remain in the air. Engines powerful as they may be eventually reach a point of diminishing returns. Slabs of armour 4 cm thick and covering 10's of square meters. That said, the new armour sure looks cool.
I vacillate from liking this model to incredulity whether it has any chance of airworthiness...........
Scratch work tip:
Free Raised Letters for Your Models
I scraped these off the mouthwash caps when I built the T'hawk's exhaust cones.
Perfect raised letters and arrows (excuse the shaking of the camera in the photo); I cut these off with the chisel tool in the picture but a razor would do as well.
Of course you are limited to the common letters and arrows embossed on the caps of products and prescription drug containers but with judicious editing names &etc can be worked out.......
Heavier and Heavier, this model has slabs of simulated armour that causes serious doubt on the ability to actually remain in the air. Engines powerful as they may be eventually reach a point of diminishing returns. Slabs of armour 4 cm thick and covering 10's of square meters. That said, the new armour sure looks cool.
I vacillate from liking this model to incredulity whether it has any chance of airworthiness...........
Scratch work tip:
Free Raised Letters for Your Models
I scraped these off the mouthwash caps when I built the T'hawk's exhaust cones.
Perfect raised letters and arrows (excuse the shaking of the camera in the photo); I cut these off with the chisel tool in the picture but a razor would do as well.
Of course you are limited to the common letters and arrows embossed on the caps of products and prescription drug containers but with judicious editing names &etc can be worked out.......
The Flying Turbo Laser Wing
The hull trunnion mounts are simple now that I have addressed myself to the fabrication. The only problem is that the wing as I have it situated is about 13 mm too far forward. A simple matter to correct but a good learning experience for me. Don't apply detail until all the basic structure is completed.
The most amazing thing about this mistake is it brings the wing trailing edge back to the original projected position when I first laid out the model.
With the trunnion mounts installed we're ready to construct the Laser wings. These wings were added to the FW model (I believe) because the heavy FW wings drooped and needed something to keep them horizontal. My model also had this problem but I opted for a true wing spar instead of fudging with non-functional supports. This led me to the dilemma of manufacturing a hinge assembly that would serve as an attach point, be of a size consistent with the original model and thirdly have the ability to be posed in stowed and attack position.
The hull trunnion mounts are simple now that I have addressed myself to the fabrication. The only problem is that the wing as I have it situated is about 13 mm too far forward. A simple matter to correct but a good learning experience for me. Don't apply detail until all the basic structure is completed.
The most amazing thing about this mistake is it brings the wing trailing edge back to the original projected position when I first laid out the model.
With the trunnion mounts installed we're ready to construct the Laser wings. These wings were added to the FW model (I believe) because the heavy FW wings drooped and needed something to keep them horizontal. My model also had this problem but I opted for a true wing spar instead of fudging with non-functional supports. This led me to the dilemma of manufacturing a hinge assembly that would serve as an attach point, be of a size consistent with the original model and thirdly have the ability to be posed in stowed and attack position.
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What would you recommend as an initial purchase of styrene for scratch building? (In other words.. what types and how many of each? sheets, rods, l brackets, angles, tubes, etc..)
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My yard calls to me. In the last couple of weeks, I have done 4 complete, rotors and all, disc brake jobs on my cars. I am not supposed to do this kind of work but could not afford to pay for it, so I purchased premium parts, and all the cars stop so nice now. Throw in a timing belt kit or my Subaru Forester!! I rebuilt my lawn mower at the end of the season, now to see what winter has done with it, at least the battery still reads excellent with the Specific Gravity Tester, then, there's finishing the interior cab on my class "A" motorhome!
My yard calls to me. In the last couple of weeks, I have done 4 complete, rotors and all, disc brake jobs on my cars. I am not supposed to do this kind of work but could not afford to pay for it, so I purchased premium parts, and all the cars stop so nice now. Throw in a timing belt kit or my Subaru Forester!! I rebuilt my lawn mower at the end of the season, now to see what winter has done with it, at least the battery still reads excellent with the Specific Gravity Tester, then, there's finishing the interior cab on my class "A" motorhome!
And when do you find time to do any modeling?? lol
I like working with 0.040'' thousands (1,0 millimeter) inch thick Evergreen ® styrene sheets and strips #'s 142 thru 149 (Item No's.) which are thick enough for strength and will taken a nice bevel for basic modeling and is still thin enough to cut easily although cutting styrene of any thickness up to 3,0 MM is easy once you master the "score and snap" method of slicing styrene.
http://members.shaw.ca/sask.rail/construction/lsbuild/workstyr.html
I buy my sheet styrene from a local Plastic Warehouse; many industrial parks have commercial plastics distributors. Commercial white styrene comes in 24 X 36 inch sheets up to 4 X 8 foot sheets. I buy one each 0.020'', 0.030'', 0.040'', 24 X 36 inch sheets; about once a year I make a styrene run to replenish my supply. Commercial grade styrene is a bit softer than the modeling styrene but is plenty durable for modeling purposes and is very much cheaper than the Evergreen packs. Plastruct® and Midwest® are the two other Mfg's of styrene sold locally in my area and I'm sure there are others but evergreen offers the widest variety of sizes but Plastruct has some unique shapes and a wider selection of rod diameters than does Evergreen Just be sure you don't purchase ABS plastic by mistake as it requires different glue. 'Amazon.com' offers styrene at reasonable prices but has surprisingly less variety in sizes and shipping costs will kill you so a local hobby store is the better way to go.
HTH
Feel free to ask for additional information....
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The Flying Laser Spar:
Now that the hinge points are established on the hull I can make an estimate on the placement of the Turbo Laser flying spar mount. This structure was added to the FW design to no doubt support the heavy moment of the wing as no amount of gluing could prevent the wings from falling off or drooping on the FW model. Even my wings lightly built as they are suffer from excessive tip droop with my temporary attach screws.
Anyway I guessed at the placement of the wings on the fusilage and for some reason doubted my placement and mounted them 13 mm further than my original guess. Now I have to reposition them further back the same 13 mm.
The Flying Spar core structure I guesstimated to be 145 mm long from hinge point to wing cradle the excess being cut off when the Lasers are manufactured. I placed the width at 35 mm which seems a judicious size to build on and 2.5 mm thick which gives me a nice slot to mount the Turbolasers.
All this will begin to make more sense once the spars are mounted on the hinge trunnion, least wise I hope as I am totally making this up as I proceed..........
Now that the hinge points are established on the hull I can make an estimate on the placement of the Turbo Laser flying spar mount. This structure was added to the FW design to no doubt support the heavy moment of the wing as no amount of gluing could prevent the wings from falling off or drooping on the FW model. Even my wings lightly built as they are suffer from excessive tip droop with my temporary attach screws.
Anyway I guessed at the placement of the wings on the fusilage and for some reason doubted my placement and mounted them 13 mm further than my original guess. Now I have to reposition them further back the same 13 mm.
The Flying Spar core structure I guesstimated to be 145 mm long from hinge point to wing cradle the excess being cut off when the Lasers are manufactured. I placed the width at 35 mm which seems a judicious size to build on and 2.5 mm thick which gives me a nice slot to mount the Turbolasers.
All this will begin to make more sense once the spars are mounted on the hinge trunnion, least wise I hope as I am totally making this up as I proceed..........
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You've surpassed it already!!
Actually, that's a fair question. I don't post any work I have designed. However, I have helped many 100's of people with their models, many commercial ventures, with parts they had trouble designing. I never name names to respect their privacy, and I never charge, however, I have been gifted more paper models than I could build in the life I have left, whole collections, given in gratitude. I mostly enjoy teaching people how to do it themselves. I spend around 2 hours a day just going through the threads and administrating this forum, and sometimes, much more time answering P.M.'s. It actually adds up to a lot, and that has been my contribution for a long time, oh, add "Keeping the Peace" onto that list. There are some projects I do really want to finish, one is that coupe inspired by Mauser's model, the full frame and engine for Tonino's Balilla, that's done, just need to finalize, build, and then build a Balilla to make sure! On top of that, this year I plan to do much welding of the repair panels onto my 1973 M.G.Midget, it has the round rear wheel arch, I already blueprinted the engine. A Full plate.
Flying Lascannon Strut:
Surprisingly the proportions appear okay and when the wing is positioned aft about a centimeter the strut should fall about mid camber (of course ''camber'' isn't something that will have concerned engineers in the far distant future so we won't go there.)
The hinge tubing seems to provide enough friction to maintain the position in "Attack" and "Stowed" mode but I'll double sleeve the tubes just to provide for wear.
Surprisingly the proportions appear okay and when the wing is positioned aft about a centimeter the strut should fall about mid camber (of course ''camber'' isn't something that will have concerned engineers in the far distant future so we won't go there.)
The hinge tubing seems to provide enough friction to maintain the position in "Attack" and "Stowed" mode but I'll double sleeve the tubes just to provide for wear.
You've surpassed it already!!
Actually, that's a fair question. I don't post any work I have designed. However, I have helped many 100's of people with their models, many commercial ventures, with parts they had trouble designing. I never name names to respect their privacy, and I never charge, however, I have been gifted more paper models than I could build in the life I have left, whole collections, given in gratitude. I mostly enjoy teaching people how to do it themselves. I spend around 2 hours a day just going through the threads and administrating this forum, and sometimes, much more time answering P.M.'s. It actually adds up to a lot, and that has been my contribution for a long time, oh, add "Keeping the Peace" onto that list. There are some projects I do really want to finish, one is that coupe inspired by Mauser's model, the full frame and engine for Tonino's Balilla, that's done, just need to finalize, build, and then build a Balilla to make sure! On top of that, this year I plan to do much welding of the repair panels onto my 1973 M.G.Midget, it has the round rear wheel arch, I already blueprinted the engine. A Full plate.
How 'bout a group shot of all these paper models?
I wish I still had my 51 MG TD Midget it'd be worth a tiny fortune today.
Time for a recap:
My old drafting table has seen better days. Since the advent of digital drafting it has been employed as a styrene cutting board instead.
Right now it is a convenient place to image the T'hawk as the model has become too big to readily display on conventional furniture.
Detailing the struts started with the root camber although "camber" is not the correct word to describe the bowing of the flight surface as it is symmetrical top and underside. Camber technically would refer to an asymmetry between top and bottom curves. Anyway I like the "camber" because it adds interest to otherwise boring flat surfaces with minimal effort.
The struts in the stowed position as in the conventional FW original take on a less dynamic demeanor (IMHO) now that I see them in the attack mode. Those of you with FW T'hawks might want to try this configuration for a change from the ordinary.
