AC-30(130)-65A firetruck by NovaModel build log.

Boris

Well-Known Member
Hello all!

Today is my country's birthday, we all celebrate the Independence Day. So, Happy Independence Day, Israel.
This also means that I had some time to build.

First, I have some update on wheel nuts. I found that the smallest hex key in my set is 1.5 mm in max width, very close to 1.4 mm needed by scale. After making a small hexagon using the hex key, I understood that the hexagonal structure is barely seen and it looks almost like circle. Got me thinking.....

Second, I touched the engine by hand without noticing that one of my fingers wasn't dry enough. Some damage was made to the ink on the engine's block side and to the oil pan. Rebuild it is...
So I've rebuilt the engine block, the heads and the oil pan. Then came the accessories: pumps, air filter enclosure and generator. The pulleys were supposed to be attached directly to the pumps and the engine block, only the cooling fan had some kind of an axle simulation. This wouldn't do, so I thickened the fan's axle and made axles for all the pulleys. I don't know if these are seen or if these will be seen after mounting the cabin and engine compartment. Also, many accessories are missing, like exhaust manifold, fuel pump, distributor and so on, but since I don't plan making open engine hood, it doesn't really matter
Then came the radiator, the clutch cowling and the gearbox. The clutch is made half opened and the gearbox is represented by only the lower half. These will be glued to the driver's cabin floor.
So the engine and the transmission are installed on their position.

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Boris

Well-Known Member
Hello all
After a break I had to take because of some unexpected things happened, I continued with this model.
This time i started the crew compartment. Not too many things were done, only the floor, seat bases and rear power outtake tunnel guard.

Next time - seats an more stuff... 20200509_031541_copy_1024x576.jpg20200509_041755_copy_1024x576.jpg20200509_041800_copy_1024x576.jpg
 

Gandolf50

Researcher of obscure between war vehicles...
Staff member
Moderator
I like models that have frames and engines. Adds a lot of realism. Good looking model. ;)
Me Too!! But I really hate the ones that have the structure, frame and all, then they seal the bottom and add a 1/2 box engine and trans...and it has all the space requirements for an engine compartment...that's just lazy in my book...even a simple engine and trans would do...got several like that do this, and the sad point is the model itself is a fine unusual or rare transport vehicle that just cries out for details...look out dusting off Rhino and it's Greeble time!!
@Boris You are doing a fine job on this...

I looked back at the tires and if you draw out a diamond pattern on some 110lb card stock.. at the scale of the treads and on the sides of this you add an arrow shape you can make single cuts on them and mass-produce the treads, just leave them attached till you make the secondcut...something like this...Treads.png
 
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zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
You could cut zigzag sstrips, glue them on with some straight ones, and paint them with Liquid Electrical Tape. They look like real Rubber. The rubber stuff "Flex Seal" sold in the U.S. and everywhere else, works even better. I painted an 10 year old Bi-Plane model I have that is really falling apart, but the wheels look like real rubber around a year ago, and they still feel that way. Really nice that the cab has an interior. :)
 

Gandolf50

Researcher of obscure between war vehicles...
Staff member
Moderator
You could cut zigzag sstrips, glue them on with some straight ones, and paint them with Liquid Electrical Tape. They look like real Rubber. The rubber stuff "Flex Seal" sold in the U.S. and everywhere else, works even better. I painted an 10 year old Bi-Plane model I have that is really falling apart, but the wheels look like real rubber around a year ago, and they still feel that way. Really nice that the cab has an interior. :)
I haven't tried the rubber as yet, but I do need a solution for a rubber track, that is simpler than casting some silicon, so will give it a try ( one of these days)...

Zigzags are also a good pattern ( I got I think 5 or so right now, including the "Heart" pattern, all done up in .dxf's for the cutter)

Not to scale, but easy enough to scale down to the required size and duplicate the pattern a couple of times and run a sheet of them...
 

Attachments

  • Tire-Tread.jpg
    Tire-Tread.jpg
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Boris

Well-Known Member
In reality, the threads on the tire were quite shallow since this is a on road vehicle, I'd say around 1 cm deep.
In scale, we're talking about 0.3 mm, which very close to the thickness of the 160 g/m2 paper (0.22mm)
It means I could probably reprint the thread and cut out the thread pads and then glue them on.... That's going to be interesting
 
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zathros

*****SENIOR ADMINISTRATOR*****
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Most people just use regular paper and make the tread patterns. This makes them easy to cut, you can paint the rubber onto the wheels, the apply the pattern,align it around with a toothpick, and apply a final lawyer over everything, and it looks like a real rubber tire. :)
 

Boris

Well-Known Member
Hello all.
Slowly, this build continues.
I decided that I need to make the external body shiney and covered the printed pages with Americana Glossy finisher. Had to make 4-5 layers. This stiffened the paper a lot, making it quite hard to fold and build. Nothing I can't deal with, but still, I will have to fight the parts. I hope the looks will be worth the trouble.

Finished with the rear bench. Then I switched to the engine compartment. The "nose" of this car is very distinct. The smiling grill becoming wheel cowlings (are these called wings??) and the round hood are very special and quite hard to implement in paper. I have to admit I didn't understand how the engine compartment sides connect to the cowlings, to the front grill and to the windshield base and where does the firewall go. So I emailed Nova, the designer. The guy sent 100+ build pictures and some diagrams. This made the construction a bit easier.
The idea is that first the firewall (which is a laminated double sided piece) should be mounted but only the side that faces the crew compartment. Then the wheels wells should be installed. Then the windshield base is mounted. Afterwards the engine compartment sides are mounted formed to right shape with round nose and straight sides. Then laminate the insides of engine compartment so that engine bay internal walls are not white.
Then the hood (bonnet?) should come along forming the engine compartment. All this without formers of any kind. That was a challenging job.
This is the point I stopped...
Next, the wheel cowlings and the grill. Maybe next week...

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snake7

Well-Known Member
I usually don't stop by this category, but somehow ended up here with your build thread. :)
That is clean and nice build, Boris!
By the looks of exterior color - gonna be very effective looking AC-30!
Will follow with interest.
Good luck, friend!
 
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Boris

Well-Known Member
Thank you all! I have to take a little break, I am learning to weld and have burned my left hand. Nothing serious, but have to give my hands some rest. Will continue ASAP
 

Boris

Well-Known Member
Hello all
After some recovery, I got to truck's front grill.
Unexpectedly, it took me 4.5 hours to finish this part.
I have to add, all external parts were covered by Americana Glossy sealer/finisher spray. I made too many passes to make the parts shine so the paper now is really stiff and hard to work with.
Nevemind, I'll overcome this20200620_024510_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_024523_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_031607_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_031619_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_082735_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_082743_copy_1024x576.jpg20200620_082758_copy_1024x576.jpg
 
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