A simple model
- Thread starter Joseph
- Start date
Is it the USS Nevada?Peter, you're too nice 
The low quality of pics hides a lot of the imperfections 
Here is the bow, then the complete hull structure:
The low quality of pics hides a lot of the imperfections Here is the bow, then the complete hull structure:
Joseph said:
Nevada was not lost in 1941. That was her sister Oklahoma.
Nevada survived the war (as did all US battleships except the two lost at Pearl Harbor). She was eventually sunk as a target, in the Bikini A-bomb tests.
...or do you mean this model is of a ship lost in 1941?
if so, then it must be either the aformentioned Oklahoma, or Arizona (what does it matter
. It's clearly an early super-dreadnought, of the Nevada or Pennsylvania classes.I did not say it correctly: the aircraft wears markings that were introduced in 42-43 (I think), which are impossible because the ship was lost in 41.
So, ... :roll: :?:
So, ... :roll: :?:
the underwater part of the hull is simplified: the anti-torpedo zones are just represented by a black line...easier for me!
And yes, it's the Arizona
And yes, it's the Arizona
ops:Hi Joseph
Don't worry about the web cam, thats all I had when I started Yamato.
It's a very good build you have and I look forward to seeing the rest when you can.
The hull looks great, keep up the good work.
Regards
Rob
Don't worry about the web cam, thats all I had when I started Yamato.
It's a very good build you have and I look forward to seeing the rest when you can.
The hull looks great, keep up the good work.
Regards
Rob
Joeseph
It does not look that easy to me considering the potential for it to warp you've done a great job on it.
barry
It does not look that easy to me considering the potential for it to warp you've done a great job on it.
barry
lol, in fact it warps in all directions :lol:
too few formers, me not being too accurate in my work and water-based glue... :roll:
too few formers, me not being too accurate in my work and water-based glue... :roll:
Water based glue
Joeseph
If it helps
1 coat both pieces very thinly and let them dry
2 coat 1 piece thinly it should now stick reasonably well
3 Gil's best tip (for me anyway) nip the joint, if possible, with tweesers hold for a few seconds
4 run a filet of glue on the inside of the part for strength
5 do not dilute the glue if it's PVA type
I get in a right mess with UHU or instant glue
barry
Joeseph
If it helps
1 coat both pieces very thinly and let them dry
2 coat 1 piece thinly it should now stick reasonably well
3 Gil's best tip (for me anyway) nip the joint, if possible, with tweesers hold for a few seconds
4 run a filet of glue on the inside of the part for strength
5 do not dilute the glue if it's PVA type
I get in a right mess with UHU or instant glue
barry
Hi Barry,
thank you for the advices
The parts are printed on thin 80 g/m² paper. I laminated the formers on bristol, but it is not enough. Well, I'm learning!
Joseph
thank you for the advices
The parts are printed on thin 80 g/m² paper. I laminated the formers on bristol, but it is not enough. Well, I'm learning!
Joseph