4x8 figure 8 crossing

YmeBP

YmeBP

Member
Dec 3, 2006
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Southern New Jersey
www.skyersfamily.com
I'm trying to build a loop in loop 4x8 figure 8 crossing from my two kids. Is this a limitation of atlas right trak or is it really this difficult to get a ground crossing to line up properly!?
 

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I see 6 probs with the diagram:
1-4: you have to include the 1/3 18" radius pieces when using the switches to complete a circle
5-6: must remove the small straight pieces from the middle of the loops on the figure 8
Eric:thumb:
 
I think there may be a little problem with the track segments you're using. To fit a 90 degree crossing in, you need to get 45 degrees in each of the curves coming in -- where the 4 (or 5) switches are. I'm not sure, but I think the switches are 20 degrees with a spare 10 degree curve to match to the full curve (30 degrees). See if you can do it with a switch, the additional piece and a half (15 degree) curve.
 
:confused:I think i understand .. i have atlas snap switches, they aren't numbered. So i think you are saying the same thing as thouroughbreed in that i have to use the little stub turns that come w/ the snap switches.

I think i'm going to bite the bullet and learn xtrakcad becuase i can't get rts 7.0 to do what i want ...

60103 said:
I think there may be a little problem with the track segments you're using. To fit a 90 degree crossing in, you need to get 45 degrees in each of the curves coming in -- where the 4 (or 5) switches are. I'm not sure, but I think the switches are 20 degrees with a spare 10 degree curve to match to the full curve (30 degrees). See if you can do it with a switch, the additional piece and a half (15 degree) curve.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, here is half of the inner figure 8, to be able to put the switches in the right locations,
I used a 60 degree crossing and then 9" straights, the curve pieces are 18" radius. The two small curve pieces are 1/3 18" radius. The switches are snap-switches.
 

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Judging from that, the only way he gets the outer loop to fit on the 4x8 is with 60 degree crossings....no way it fits using 90s.....
 
Ironhead said:
Judging from that, the only way he gets the outer loop to fit on the 4x8 is with 60 degree crossings....no way it fits using 90s.....
Click to expand...
That is a help :) boy i've gotten as far as to just layout the tracks on the table and play w/ them ahhahaa.

Looks liek i didn't scroll down far enough .... THANKS!!! :) wow! thanks!!!
 
Thank you soooo much :). I'm going to replicate your work in my copy here!!

Yes i've decided to do this project as a way to learn traditional wiring of tracks and accessories, not to mention keep my boys off my rails :). They tend to like to see the trains go a little faster than what i like on my layout. Thank you again!!

jesso said:
Ok, I did most of the rest. Now remember, those straight lines on the outsides of the figure 8 are reversing tracks so they are going to have to be wired accordingly.
Click to expand...

Beautiful!!! it works i'm going downstairs to try it out!! Thanks again!!!
 
I don't know if you are aware that you can go to the outer circle counterclockwise but have to back up to get back.
If you have a crossover on the lower part of the layout in the opposite direction you would be able to move between both circles freely.
 
engineshop said:
I don't know if you are aware that you can go to the outer circle counterclockwise but have to back up to get back.
If you have a crossover on the lower part of the layout in the opposite direction you would be able to move between both circles freely.
Click to expand...

I was thinking about that too as I was drawing it for him. So I have redrawn it and I figured out a way to put the siding in that he wanted. I also put in another connecting line on the other side. You need some different sized sectional track, but it is all readily available.

YmeBP, instant message me if you would like the .ral file
 

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Just got finished gluing the track down .... i must say that my apprehension about glueing track is gone... I used nails for my other layout and i think it was a mistake. Using dap adhesive caulk (ran out so i mixed w/ liquid nails) as suggested elsewhere in the forums is MUCH better. I mean .. the track is sooooo solid ;). I'm very very happy w/ how this is turning out so far, thanks again for the help!.

Some Photo's:
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nice smooth and flat:
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I've put all the rail joiners in:
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Pix of the glued track to come.
 
more wiring, i also installed one part of the control panel. This part is for my older son, i haven't figured out how i'm going to do the part for my younger son yet.

Oh i've figured this out too... the stupid little transformers that you get w/ the toy sets suck. I needed two of them in parallel to fire off my switch machines and snap relay.

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This is a closeup of my snap-relay wiring:
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The panel:
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All done w/ the wiring except the leds :).

This is the bottom after i've cleaned up and tacked all the wiring to the wood:
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I figured out how to use some vice grips to flatten the wire
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All done :) now i have to wire the control panel
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all done w/ the basic wiring
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My new bnsf running around the layout.
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Now to work on those led;'s :) and scenery.
 
O.k. now that i have this thing built and powered i have a question about it's operation!!

I've been trying to get it right and i can't ;( my engines stall when going from the main line to the inner leg of the reversing section of the figrue 8. I have the "x" in the middle blocked and connected to an atlas selector. I have 2 cabs connected to the selector. I have common rail wiring (but both my rails are gapped just in case). Do i need to buy an atlas controller to make the reversing section in the middle of the 8 work seamlessly? Or do i need a primer in reversing loop operation hehehe :) i'm thinking it's a combination of the 2.
 
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