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@Rhaven Blaack @Revell-Fan Many thanks guys :D. I'll copy 'n' paste my Bannockburn post tomorrow - 03:30 is a bit late/early even for me ;)

@spaceagent-9 Just like Kirk in The Enterprise Incident ;) I joined the parts for the superstructure of the hull following Ninjatoes' instructions:- I then attached the shuttlebay and engines:- finishing with the upper deck containing the bridge. This gives me a USS Defiant measuring 18mm...

I'm back after completing my USS Bannockburn [details in my blog] and I've cut the parts for the Defiant:- All 10 pages are shown here. I've joined all the parts from pages 1 through 3 to form the nose and the aft hull:-

They've got a good selection of kit that would've been useful for Asterix's Gaulish village :). I'll mibbe have a more in-depth rummage through their site when I'm running low on stock again. So far I've been able to find everything I've needed on that 'famous online auction site' ;) - even...

I hadn't heard of them, but I've just had a look at their website. Their prices seem a wee bit steep!

I now have five Galaxy class ships: the USSs Galaxy, Magellan, Trinculo, Venture and unnamed:- I'm taking a break from this for a day or three as I have a side-project that I want to do. The 700th anniversary of the Battle of Bannockburn was last week and in honour of Robert the Bruce, 4th...

At last! All the secondary hulls have been built and connected to the primary hulls. This leaves the nacelles to be added:- This is the USS Magellan. I'll be using dods (very technical term! ;)) of blu tac for the bussard collectors.

The secondary hull is next:-

Awesome Jim! Thank-you! :D:D:D

With all the saucers built I cut the parts for the neck:- This will also be connected by 'strapping' with thin strips of paper.

I've joined all the saucer halves, connected the sensor arrays and cut the rims and parts for the bridges:-

All the upper saucer halves were connected and I cut the parts for all the lower saucer halves:- These are the USS Venture's parts. The largest piece from the underside was pasted onto 1mm thick card and the rings are strapped together with eight thin, paper, radial strips.

The wee bugs have been put in a stasis field so they won't be multiplying or escaping or... ...much of anything - lol. The saucer of the Centaur was finished and all the other parts were cut:- It all went together surprisingly easily, but I had to ditch the gold ailerons as they were too...

@Revell-Fan lmao :D This is what a swarm of Jemmie bugs looks like:- Now that one lot of monotony is out of the way I've started on the USS Centaur by Paragon:- There's only one of these - which is just as well as I needed the second printing for the teeny, toty, wee layered bits.

Many thanks for the high praise guys :D. I'm just over the halfway mark with them now and I've noticed that I've stuck quite a few nacelles on the wrong way round :facepalm: - I'll just have to use those as kamikazes and I've always got plenty more templates to fall back on.

I finished all the back ends of the Jemmie bugs and started cutting the parts for the fronts in batches of five to avoid monotony and so that I had some visible progress:- The first group of ten has been finished at a grand total of 8mm in length:- I found some charts of Star Trek ships...

Progressing slowly but... ... slowly:-

@zathros @Rhaven Blaack Thanks guys :D @kirby stewart It gets easier after a few months ;). The hardest part is not breathing a sigh of relief when I've cut the smallest pieces! lol I'm a third of the way through the rear ends now. The struts are just big enough to be lifted by hand - the rest...

Thanks all :D Now the real brain damage begins! lol I'm using Paragon's design for the Jem'Hadar fighters and I've shrunk them to 6mm in width. I've started with the nacelle supports at the rear of the ships:- Paragon provided templates for up to five layers; I'll be using single layers where...

@Ron Caudillo Many thanks :D @spaceagent-9 Thank-you Jim :shamefullyembarrased:. Lining the nacelle struts is a bit awkward, but dry fitting them first gives a good idea of the angles they should take. The angle is much more pronounced than in any diagram I've seen or on my Eaglemoss version...