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While those are indeed GMD1u's, not all GMD1's were A-1-A, they were built both as A-1-A and B-B units, depending on intended service. The 1900 Series were built with B-B's, and some of these were rebuilt into 14xx GMD1u's

I'm not sure, but I think so, All of the scrapped units were scrapped in Quebec or Mocton, which argues for an eastern assignment. All the HR616's were retired between 1995 and 1998, at the same time as the M636's and C630M's they were intended to replace.

Actually, there were 4 Draper Taper's on CN. The Dash 8-40CM's, the SD50F's, the SD0F's and the HR616's. The Bombardier HR616's were the first Draper Taper units, and are often refered to as just 'Draper Tapers'. These were also the last Alco-powered units ever made for freight service, in the...

shaygetz: It's a Resin Kit, not a prepainted one. Plenty of work for the modeller. Glen: http://www.kasloshops.com It's in the Point One section (Kaslo produces it for Point One Models), there is pictures available of several versions (They make 6 different versions

No need to bash one today. Kaslo makes a Resin GMD-1. They also make a frame/power kit. Which might come in handy for this one. A very nice little kitbash though.

I got lucky and scored 3 40' modified AAR Boxcar kits from Intermountain yesterday. These are 10'6" height with 6' doors, 5/5 Dreadnought ends and Murphy roofs. Here's a mini review for those who haven't tried them yet. The kits are undecs of course (The only way Intermountain sells kits)...

You'll want to leave the boxcars stock if you plan on doing interchange with the world, as up until the 1960's the roofwalks were required for interchange service. Lowered brakewheels, or a side-accessible mount like on a gondola might be an idea though.

CN1: Rapido Trains is doing a Turbo Train kit with Kaslo shops. Should arrive later this summer. It's looking good so far, but it will be an expert-level kit.

For European-style Ready-to-run you have a few choices. For locomotives, Athearn Genesis, Kato, Atlas and Proto2000/Proto1000 are the best. Stewart and Intermountain are good as well. Kato and P2K require a little assembly (Grabs and Railings). Atrhearn Blue-Box and RTR are lower-quality but...

A couple of notes: CA cures very fast on resin, even faster on skin. Be sure of the fit before you glue. CA Debonder melts Resin better than it does CA.

Given the detail differences between CP units and either the Kato or Athearn models, if you want an accurate CP unit, you will need to do a fair bit of work. At a minimum, replacing the short nose, replacing the steps and adding the bell & horn to the correct location. Just be glad you can...

I've seen a couple of shots of S-1's and S-2's with a Pantograph. Often it's simply required to activate signalling, although they may be able to power the traction motors as well, if it's a 600V wire.

They run $320 for an AB set usually, or about $175 for an A unit. Not sure whether or not MILW is available at the moment

Yes. Better drive (the LL drives can be a little flakey), and better detail. These are the premier F units on the market, although the Stewart F unit drive *Might* be a little better.

Well, there's no comparison between the Genesis and Blue-Box units. Different drive & shells. The Genesis F's are Highliner shells, custom decorated, on a Genesis drive (Almost Kato/Atlas quality). This is a better drive than even the upgraded RTR Athearn Drives.

Not available in CN yet.

Just store mine in the yard, like the prototype.

Half a Branchline Blueprint 50' N&W Box. But my weekend wasn't really available for modelling. I do get my module set tonight though.

Well, GP30's and most SD's, being second-generation power are a bit late to run alongside steam. I'd look at GP7's & 9's, SD7's and 9's, RS3's RSD4/5's and Trainmasters, as well as F units for the era you're looking at. You may want to get in touch with the LDSIG, as what you need is what...

The best way to oil the engine is to disassmble it and oil the bearings witha plastic compatible oil like those produced by Labelle. Greasing the gears with a similar grease is also a good idea. However, Bachmann train set engines aren't particularily good runners, so this may not improve things...