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Take a pair of flat jawed pliers and twist the top of the points outward toward the top of the rail it alligns with. I have fixed quite a few for customers that way. The points are a stamping and they tend to be not the best fit against the rail. The bottom edge of the points will hit the base...

The only thing I have seen with smoke in N was Rapido German prototype, or maybe it was Fleishman, something german though. As far as I know they are no longer produced but I don't follow european prototypes very close.

I could only wish for Atlas, or anybody else to announce one. There are no good bay window cabooses available right now. I have been watching for some of the Fine N Scale boxes but they are getting very rare. I would like to have a half dozzen or so. I have been using Pacific Mountain Scales...

My decals arrived tuesday. They turned out better than I could have ever expected. Here is a shot of the caboose finally decaled and a shot of flat clear over it to help blend the decals. The decals were printed by a friend of mine from RC racing circles. I create custom vinyl decals and paint...

IMO the Bachmann Spec 2-8-0 is the best N-scale steam loco you can buy, period. The Kato Mikado is right there with it but after talking to real world customers that come in the shop I work at, the Kato doesn't come close to the pull of the 2-8-0 even with the optional traction tires. The Kato...

That's a stock photo from LL. They offered 2 road numbers in SAL and I think both are still available.

The first photo is the earliest I have. I didn't think about it until too late. When I start working on a project, I often forget to stop and take time to take pictures. I still have the kit handrail that I didn't even bother to try to use that I could take a picture of to show you what most of...

One last shot. I will post more once I get decals on it. Above is one of the images I used for my prototype, care of: http://www.northeast.railfan.net

I recently started a rant about the lack of accurate road specific cabooses available, for that matter the lack of cabooses, road specific or not. The general concessus was that, unless you model a few specific roads, you needed to make your own caboose to get something even remotely close...

It is supposed to do that. The light board is diode issolated so that in reverse the headlight goes out. At least that is the way mine is.

I really don't have an answer. To remove the lead and trailing trucks, you don't need to disturb any of the running gear or drivers. The only thing I can think of is that when you replaced the screw that holds on the trailing truck, it also holds the motor in the chassis. If you over tighten it...

Break in time and the fact that you are now running two powered loco's on the same track so it will take more amperage to get them both rolling, thus a higher throttle range for starting. Try just one at a time and see if the starting throttle is considerably lower.

The front truck issue is why mine get removed first thing. There is just no way to get them to track reliably, I have tried. Like you mentioned, the pilot truck is just not heavy enough and the way the wheels mount on the axles is not exactly friction free. For the tender pick up, the best...

With any steam loco, break in is very important. If you are happy with how it is running now, just keep having fun and it will get better over time. Many will set up a loop of track and let the loco with no load for a couple of hours, switching direction around the loop and forward/reverse...

There a a few things you can do to that loco to turn that average little loco into a fairly decent performer. #1 - The little wires you noticed on the draw bar. Most for them from the factory are not soldered well. Remove the tender from the loco, and touch a soldering iron to the points where...

There is only one currently available N scale "train set" that has DCC included and it doesn't include a DCC controler, only a DC. It is the Bachmann Accela that was just released. It has a decoder installed that is backwards compatible (will work with both DC and DCC). The set comes with a...

For those that didn't see the release info on the other boards. http://www.athearn.com/newsletter/010306/N_Challenger_a_010306.jpg http://www.athearn.com/newsletter/010306/N_Challenger_010306.jpg

It will run just fine on DC, that is what the accessory controler is for. If you already have DCC, the function buttons of the system would control the sounds. If you don't have DCC, the accessory will allow you to access some of the DCC/sound functions of the loco. It can also be programed on a...

Most everything except the largest engines and long cars can run on 9 3/4. Long cars will have objectionable overhang which can interfere with scenery and tunnel portals. Even the latest articulated steam are supposed to run on 9 3/4 radius, although they don't really look that good doing it...

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