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Cool, thanks for responding! I'll look into the Kadee 50'ers, thanks for the tip.

Gary, I just wanted to tell you how much I admire your work. I'm still looking for the PERFECT car to proudly adorn my set of JGL decals upon.

Gary! Please continue posting, your material is TOO GOOD to be left alone.

I have an odd request for TopTrain, or anybody out there: Mantua made a little davenport DIESEL that was an 0-4-0 with SIDERODS and counterweights. I came across it looking in my 1992 Walther's Catalogue. Does anybody have one of those? I'd love to find one.

The DPM Modular Sections are LESS expensive, and nicely detailed. However, you'll probably have trouble painting all those windows. The Walthers have even sharper detail, better windows, and are 3 times more EXPENSIVE. However, the windows are seperate castings.

Gus, I'd say a fairly large one, I read back in an MR article about this technique for passenger cars. I wish I had better info. I'd imagine it'd be one of those capacitors that look like modern aluminium beer kegs, but about O scale in size. Sorry for such sketchy info. Perhaps...

You could also just wire up a large CAPACITOR to your current wiring situation, so the car can maintain a more even lighting situation. It costs nearly nothing, and the results are very good.

Let's NOT start another "Is graffiti good or bad" thread please? Poor guys on both sides of the law...don't forget ALL THAT WASTED PAINT.

If any of you out there are curious on how to weather stuff, this thread was extremely helpful to me: Railroad Line Forums - Weather or not: Discussion, Tips, Techniques

NKP, I do both. -I use the photographs of REAL cars to get inspiration, or in some painstaking examples, copy it exactly as I see it/ -I Take photos of my own work to look at it in a whole different way, to catch mistakes, and to have it critiqued by others on how I could improve it...

Larry, There's a middle road between your Airbrush overspray and a rust bucket with graffiti. I cannot say I've seen a full-size freigh car that look like it was quickly sprayed with Floquil Grimy Black. Cars RUST, they have graffiti (only after 1993 or so) they aren't just dusty. Here's...

Mountian Man, you're full of great points lately! ;) That's why I do all my own work, on top of other people's work on comission of course. ;) I enjoy the pride and the sense of accomplishment.

I know! There's two types of weatherers: -The Crappy "rattle-can" "india-ink wash" "globby painter" or "unpainted plastic" and the worst: one who doesn't work from photographs. *coughRailisticcough* There seems to be no middle The good: They work from photographs, and stive for realism...

Mountain Man is exactly correct. I wrote straight from my expirence, not all MR's are fluff, and not all RMC's are good either. If you like Pennslyvanian Coal and Steel operations, you'll probably enjoy most if not all articles about that subject, and probably not care as much about an...

Worthy magazines are also available from the larger Historical and Technical Societies of Particular railroads. Southern Pacific'c H&TS produces "SP Trainline" and The Santa FE HT&S produces a similar product. Most of them are well done and chocked full of useful information if you're...

Yeah, the article is also on his website! I see a need for a few products for modelers, and I have similar aspirations.

It doesn't matter if a guy in MR did that.. IT'S STILL A BAD IDEA. It's not like MR (or any modeling magazine) is the modeling bible from which we must obey every tutorial or tip they put forth. I agree with Ron, but only for wood burning locomotive ash pits, the cedar would (or wood,lol)...

You can debate all you want about instant gratification, and electronic pacification of the kids born after 1990, but for those who remember the Gauge you know my age. Basically, as computers became more powerful, kids turned from their toys to a computer. I remember Apple IIe's with oregon...

Please Define "CN version." The trick to kitbashing is to choose a model that's fairly similar to the one you wish to build. Was there a CN locomotive out there that was a large drivered 4-8-4 with bokbox drivers with a similar clyinder diameter, steam dome position, and cab type to the one...

Ok, First, the Steamdome water buildup looks like paint (which it is) not mineral buildup. It's all too gloppy and much too heavy and opaque. DRYBRUSHING is the name of this game. Your rust needs some more color variation, and needs a more pitted/streaky look to it. The rest of it...