Starship Troopers Roger Young-Bob's Build

I c your idea. I have a question what glue r u using?I am thinking of using a combo of foam core and hobby Styrofoam to fill the blocks as much as possible.How is your progress coming?Thxs for any help.This is going to b a heck of a project but well worth it.LOL
 
My progress is, DONE. I could add another 2 weeks of fine detailing, but she is up on the shelf and i am happy how it turned out.
I used a lot of foam poster board and a bit of balsa wood to strengthen my RJ. My advise to you is to use it on all your horizontal and verticle surfaces. The parts will join better and it will give it a more quality looks. She's big and you don't want her to sag.
As for glue, I just used a clear hobby glue and super glue. Zathros has now got me using Zip Dry paper glue. It's more like a rubber cement but it bonds parts faster and the paper doesn't get soggy.
 
thx f131. i will take your advice to heart.I sure dont want all that work to end up a drooping mess..LOL. i will check hobby store for glue.what is the dry time on it?U used SG to stick the foam strips to the paper?Thanks again 4 the help.
 
roger439 said:
thx f131. i will take your advice to heart.I sure dont want all that work to end up a drooping mess..LOL. i will check hobby store for glue.what is the dry time on it?U used SG to stick the foam strips to the paper?Thanks again 4 the help.
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The bonding time with Zip Dry is about :45. It can get a bit messy. For fine detail parts I use Loctite Super Glue (dries clear, not white like some crazy glues) or Clear Gel Tacky Glue. I bought them at Michaels. With RJ I would use the ZD or TG for strength, but the SG (after the part set) for tight edge bonding. I don't like gaps. With RJ, I also printed extra parts so I could overlap seams and make multiple parts look like one. Feel free to keep asking questions, I know I bugged ekuth a few times.:wave:
 
The Zip Dry glue is better for larger parts. I am going to have to try the Loctite. I have problems with anything cyanide based. It tends to make me wretch. I'd say it could be an allergy but that's the basic human response to cyanide. Probably just need more ventilation! Your edge to edge surfaces are so tight, maybe the LG gets into the ends of the paper to form a better bond? :)
 
Great, I've lost tons of brain cells from plastic model glue, now I have to worry about cyanide. The next thing I will find out is that booze is bad for me.
 
F131 said:
Great, I've lost tons of brain cells from plastic model glue, now I have to worry about cyanide. The next thing I will find out is that booze is bad for me.
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It is said we humans use only 10% of our Brains. I figure that gives a wide margin of Brain cells I don't have to worry about worry about about out wree.....hguh? :p
 
I used 110, and that worked well. I wouldn't use anything too thick on the bridge or observation deck parts due to a lot of fine detail folding.
 

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Danm, I have no words to say how cool this model is.
It's ecactly the size to fit for my RC-submarine. (if the motors fit into the engine-pods)

I will build it, and then build it again as a flooded hull for my submarine.

Thanks for answers :-)
 
Sry f131 i've be away for a while helping a friend.Thx for the other info. i really hate to bother ppl but the members of this site r very nice and dont seem to mind helping with issues.I do have a couple of issues that have cropped up since printing out the RY.One is the alt.parts dont have guide lines for scoring.Also one part of my engines prints a different color than all the others.I have downloaded it twice with the same results it is the part called engines(l) bottom upper half.Anyway sry for the long post.
 
F131 said:
I used 110, and that worked well. I wouldn't use anything too thick on the bridge or observation deck parts due to a lot of fine detail folding.
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That's more like it!

Awesome work. This one is on my to-do list, as soon as I think I'm good enough to tackle it.
 
Also one part of my engines prints a different color than all the others.I have downloaded it twice with the same results it is the part called engines(l) bottom upper half.Anyway sry for the long post.[/QUOTE] Boy said:
That's more like it!

Awesome work. This one is on my to-do list, as soon as I think I'm good enough to tackle it.
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Kjev, this is only my third paper model. If you follow this thread from the beginning you will see I screwed up a few times. I'm sure you are plenty good enough to do it. Ekuth's directions are very good and he will assist if you ask him. Give it a go.
 
F131 said:
Kjev, this is only my third paper model. If you follow this thread from the beginning you will see I screwed up a few times. I'm sure you are plenty good enough to do it. Ekuth's directions are very good and he will assist if you ask him. Give it a go.
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There's that, and the printing costs. I've recently decided to start printing my models at Kinko's, since they have better quality printers, and it saves my poor little inkjet. And the to-do list, which often conflicts with the Honey-Do list, and the 5 year old, 2 year old, and 1 year old. And work. But I could give that up in a heartbeat.:mrgreen:
 
Kjev said:
And the to-do list, which often conflicts with the Honey-Do list, and the 5 year old, 2 year old, and 1 year old. And work. But I could give that up in a heartbeat.:mrgreen:
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Yep. I'm in the same boat. Thats why I am such a slow builder. My youngest (11) reminds me often to get busy and finish my models.sign1
 
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