You may remember that I bought a Miniatures by Eric vestibule cab casting when we did our "steelfan" tour. I'm hoping to be able to make that fit one of the BLI Mikes that I have.
When you say build over the existing cab, what do you mean? I was planning on replacing the exisitng cab, using the forward wall as a template for the replacement part so that it sits snug against the boiler. If this works, I'm in business as MBE makes several CN and CP vestibule cabs.
Val
That vestibule cab should be pretty easy to make fit the BLI Mike. If you're not in a rush......
Sometimes, you need to remove material from either the front of the cab or the rear of the boiler, while other situations require filling or covering gaps.
To build over the existing cab (I doubt that the MBE one is suitable for this) you need to remove all protruding detail from the existing cab's sides. I usually try to use the existing roof, so the main parts that you need to scratchbuild are the two sides, and the rear of the cab. Make one side to match the dimensions of either your prototype or your model, then copy it for the second side. Cut out the window and door openings, then hold each side, in turn, over the existing cab. Mark the openings in the new cab onto the sides of the old cab, then use whatever means necessary to carve away any part of the original cab that's within the marks. It's a good idea to cut these openings even wider, as it will allow you to laminate door and window frame detail onto the back faces of the new sides. Once everything lines up, you can then measure for the cab's back wall, sized so it fits between the two new sidewalls. I prefer to use styrene for any of this work - .010" or .015" will be plenty heavy enough, as what's left of the original cab will provide the strength. If you require rivet detail on the cab sides, use .010", with an overlay of .005" embossed with the rivets. If you have to make a new roof, try to form the curve before installation, rather than during. I've heard that immersion in hot water while the plastic is held in place on a former works well.
If you're going to use a MBE or other cab, usually the biggest problem is not getting a proper fit, but finding a way to mount it securely.
This plastic cab from Kemtron was epoxied into place on this old John English Pacific; luckily, the boiler diameter was very close to the opening moulded in the new cab. In the area above the short steps, at the lower front of the cab, you can see the different colour on the boiler, right above the walkway. This short piece is actually a piece of the new cab front, moulded on to make it easier for the modeller to match the sloped cab front to a straight cut boiler.
This one is the same Kemtron cab, in brass. Rather than screw around too much trying to get a good fit, I simply used a cut-off disc in my Dremel to slice a slot through the sides and top of the firebox.
The newly assembled cab was then soldered in place, although I had to make up brass brackets to span from the existing floor to the new sides, and from the top of the firebox to the front wall. This cab is a very close match to that used on the prototype CNR T-3-a, which is what this old Akane is destined to become.
This one is being built for my good friend Mister Nutbar - when I finally get it done, I'll be posting a series of photos showing the various stages of completion, but it certainly won't be a "how to".
:-D
Wayne
