first pics
- Thread starter Kevinkrey
- Start date
Wow, it worked, not the clearest picture, I may need help figuring that one out. But I did get a picture on. :thumb: Tommorow, I will try to post pics of the layout. Thanks everybody who has helped me figure this out. Any suggestions for pic clarity?
ISO, Lights, Depth of Field, Macro, lions, tigers and bears...
I suspect the camera bumped the ISO rating up to 200 or better where the higher the ISO on a digital camera, the grainier the picture. The way to keep that under control and not wash out the color is to add more light so the camera does not substitute flash and ISO to compensate for a lack of light.
PS: I do like the depth of field you got. I have not gotten use to digital camera's lack of depth control, but I guess that is the price paid for a low cost camera and lens that gives near instant feedback on the little LCD after snapping the picture
I suspect the camera bumped the ISO rating up to 200 or better where the higher the ISO on a digital camera, the grainier the picture. The way to keep that under control and not wash out the color is to add more light so the camera does not substitute flash and ISO to compensate for a lack of light.
PS: I do like the depth of field you got. I have not gotten use to digital camera's lack of depth control, but I guess that is the price paid for a low cost camera and lens that gives near instant feedback on the little LCD after snapping the picture
I suspect the camera bumped the ISO rating up to 200 or better where the higher the ISO on a digital camera, the grainier the picture. The way to keep that under control and not wash out the color is to add more light so the camera does not substitute flash and ISO to compensate for a lack of light.
PS: I do like the depth of field you got. I have not gotten use to digital camera's lack of depth control, but I guess that is the price paid for a low cost camera and lens that gives near instant feedback on the little LCD after snapping the picture
That's why I just bought a Fuji S6000fd,it can take nice photos up to iso800 with little noise and iso1600 is actually doable for smaller prints.Plus it has a true wide angle lens with manual zooming.Here's a couple examples...
Both taken at iso800 without flash and hand held.At the $325 price point it's a great camera,not quite as nice as the Nikon D50 and f2.8 lenses I had,but it does a great job as an all purpose camera.Just to mention,this engine started out as a un-numbered engine.I had fellow member jbakko detail and modify it after an engine that has been seen around the CN/DM&IR Steelton yard in western Duluth.It came out really nice so I had to mention his great work.
Nice engine by the way.Is that an Athearn RTR with all-weather windows added?I have a detailed Kato DM&IR SD38-2 on the way,I'll post pics of it when I get it.
Chris
Digital Camera's
*sigh* :cry: I wanted a Nikon digital for my lens too (including bayonet mount support) but I also wanted to stay under $200 US. :cry: *sigh*
Don't get me wrong because at distances over a meter the new Canon takes great pictures, especially of people and colorful scenes. Which reminds me - Kevinkrey: If you can, on close-ups, avoid digital zoom and stick to optical zoom. If you really need to zoom in on something, do it later without the camera's interpolation of the image data.
The other great thing about the new Canon is even with the bag, accessories and extra batteries, the whole thing weights less than most of my SLR lens. This low weight and lack of bulk encourages me to take it along, hidden in my car, on even routine errands 'just in case' a train comes along. My last digital was a bulky and heavy second generation Sony that worked great for 10 years but one of the internal lens eventually fogged to the point I could not shoot around the blur.
*sigh* :cry: I wanted a Nikon digital for my lens too (including bayonet mount support) but I also wanted to stay under $200 US. :cry: *sigh*
Don't get me wrong because at distances over a meter the new Canon takes great pictures, especially of people and colorful scenes. Which reminds me - Kevinkrey: If you can, on close-ups, avoid digital zoom and stick to optical zoom. If you really need to zoom in on something, do it later without the camera's interpolation of the image data.
The other great thing about the new Canon is even with the bag, accessories and extra batteries, the whole thing weights less than most of my SLR lens. This low weight and lack of bulk encourages me to take it along, hidden in my car, on even routine errands 'just in case' a train comes along. My last digital was a bulky and heavy second generation Sony that worked great for 10 years but one of the internal lens eventually fogged to the point I could not shoot around the blur.
Thanks for the good comments. But I am confused at what I should do with ISOs, can I change it on my camera. you say I should add light, I tried to take pictures o my layout in the basement that has overhead shoplights, but the cameras auto focus would not work. any suggestions?
Oh and yes CRed, it is a Athearn RTR, the windows are from details west. I have another one (413) but it needs to be weathered and windows applied. The repair man at my LHS always buys them all when they come so ill have to special order them. I have Bachman EZ command DCC, any Idea for a resonable priced decoder, Ill probably stick with bachman.
Film speed and lighting...
I use a couple of my small portable lamps that have flexible arms, kind of like this one:
I think they have 60 watt incandescent bulbs in them. One is usually enough for auto focus to kick in and for the camera to stay at ISO 100 or 200 range. (I also use them when working on the layout when the normal lights are not enough. Yes, I could add more lights to the room but I like the color, look and shadows I get with the current lighting.)
The 'International Standards Organization (ISO)' I am talking about means ISO ratings for film speeds. 100 and 200 are normally for indoors with flash or outdoors with good daylight. 400 is faster film and used sometimes for fast action or near dusk. There are higher speeds but I rarely use them and when I do, it is for artistic effects.
What I have been doing for the staged engine shots is put the engine on my test track on my workbench. I have a three foot long, double florescent strip light hanging about 2 feet over the workbench. If that is not enough or the portable lamps are not working, I also have a portable halogen flood lamp on a big clip I got from Home Depot:
but it feels more like I am taking x-rays with it than pictures
I use a couple of my small portable lamps that have flexible arms, kind of like this one:
I think they have 60 watt incandescent bulbs in them. One is usually enough for auto focus to kick in and for the camera to stay at ISO 100 or 200 range. (I also use them when working on the layout when the normal lights are not enough. Yes, I could add more lights to the room but I like the color, look and shadows I get with the current lighting.)
The 'International Standards Organization (ISO)' I am talking about means ISO ratings for film speeds. 100 and 200 are normally for indoors with flash or outdoors with good daylight. 400 is faster film and used sometimes for fast action or near dusk. There are higher speeds but I rarely use them and when I do, it is for artistic effects.
What I have been doing for the staged engine shots is put the engine on my test track on my workbench. I have a three foot long, double florescent strip light hanging about 2 feet over the workbench. If that is not enough or the portable lamps are not working, I also have a portable halogen flood lamp on a big clip I got from Home Depot:
but it feels more like I am taking x-rays with it than pictures
Much,much better Kevin!And of course the subjects are the best,very nice stuff!
I'll post pics of my Kato SD38-2 when it gets here and for Christmas I'm getting a Athearn Genesis SD45 and have jbakko turn it into SD40-3 #418 or #416 with the "Gopher" scheme.I already have the decals I just need the engine.
Chris
I'll post pics of my Kato SD38-2 when it gets here and for Christmas I'm getting a Athearn Genesis SD45 and have jbakko turn it into SD40-3 #418 or #416 with the "Gopher" scheme.I already have the decals I just need the engine.
Chris
does micro scale still offer the HO scale missabe decals. I don't kow if Ive asked you, but are you a member of the MRHS? I plan on taking a trip to the Iron Range next year to take some real DMIR photos.
I don't think they do,the owner of Carr's Hobby is a huge DM&IR fan and he only had two sets,one of which I bought.When I go back I'll pick up the other if he still has it.
Sounds like fun,but I'm not sure they all won't be repainted by CN by the time you get up here.That would be a shame.
No,I'm not a member of the MRHS yet.I'll have to look into it though,
Chris
Sounds like fun,but I'm not sure they all won't be repainted by CN by the time you get up here.That would be a shame.
No,I'm not a member of the MRHS yet.I'll have to look into it though,
Chris