OK.
I give up.
Do you have an RTS file for this?
I've been figthing with it all night and it's still not right.
You don'tneed track planning software if you have your plywood for your benchwork cut to size already. Make a jig to draw your curves from a wooden yardstick. Drill a hole at the end. You can put it at the 1 inch mark or you could put it 1/2 inch from the end, just remember to keep the same off set at all of your measurements. Locate the center of your curves on the benchwork and use a drywall screw to fasten the yardstick to the curve center. Drill holes for your radius' at the appropriate marks on your yardstick that a pencil or felt marker will fit through. If you use "Sharpie" pens in different colors for the two levels, you can keep track of which level is which.
On a 36 inch board the max radius you could use would be 16 inches without having the track hang over the edge. It looks like you are probably going to have a 9-12 inch minimum radius to fit that track plan on your available bench. The scenic curves on the top level branch and the center level main could be drawn freehand to a radius that looks best to you. I should mention that you will want to use flex track, at least for the 2 scenic curves mentioned, and I would reccomend flex track all the way around because you will have less electrical connections.
I think the turnouts are all #4's on that plan. You will need to get 2 #4 turnouts a left and a right. After you have drawn in your curves on the ends of the benchwork, you can set up your turnouts and trace around them. You may need to locate the turnout for the lower right corner and the one on the center left of the layout first since your curves on both ends will either begin, terminate or have the turnout in the middle of the curve, so the turnout will determine to some extent the placement of those curves. For the crossover, place the right and left turnouts together facing each other as they will be mounted in the benchwork and put them in the middle of the straight where they will go. Turnouts can go on a grade if necessary, jus make sure that any changes in grade occur in the section of track on either side of the turnouts, not in the turnout. If a turnout is bent or twisted in any way, it will cause derailments everytime through.
Regarding cost. I think your biggest cost for this plan will be a plywood board, the Woodland Scenics risers, if you use that method, and the track & switches. You don't need all of the turnouts before you start. You will want to have 4 left turnouts and a right turnout before you start because those turnouts all fall on the mainline. The 2 turnouts on the ends of the branches could be purchased later as you build the layout. For bridges, Atlas makes some nice inexpensive bridges that you could use anywhere one track crosses another, or you could cross inside a tunnel. Just remember to leave access holes in any long tunnel in case of a derailment in the tunnel.
Scenery materials are cheap. You can make "stand in" buildings out of cardboard for places where you want buildings. I would reccomend that you take some time to go to "The Academy" here on the Gauge and read through "Robin At His Best." Robin made some extrordinary structures out of old cereal boxes and various bits he could buy cheap at Wal-Mart or other discount store. The advantage of trying out Robin's method of scratch building is if you mess up a structure made out of a cereal box, you throw it away and get another cereal box to start over.